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gs 1100 e valve adjustment?

  • Thread starter Thread starter deyo27
  • Start date Start date
D

deyo27

Guest
Ok the story goes I bought the 1100 it needed more work than I could put into it at the time. So I sold it to a friend. Just recently my wife said I could buy it back my friend said yes. And inbetween that time I bought a 85 nighthawk. Whitch my wife will ride after she gets her endorsment. But the 1100 needs a valve adjustment so I am wondering is it shims or some other type?
 
Ok the story goes I bought the 1100 it needed more work than I could put into it at the time. So I sold it to a friend. Just recently my wife said I could buy it back my friend said yes. And inbetween that time I bought a 85 nighthawk. Whitch my wife will ride after she gets her endorsment. But the 1100 needs a valve adjustment so I am wondering is it shims or some other type?

tappet,

but download the manual from Basscliff's site before you start and get the right tools to do the adjustment. Z1 has them I think.
 
Hi,

See the "how to" guide on my website for 16-valve engines. (Thank you Mr. basic!)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
It just requires a wrench, screwdriver and feeler gauge. I recommend using a metric gauge; I just switched this year and it is much easier. While they do make a special tool that allows you to hold the screw part and tighten the wrench part, it is not required and I have never seen the need. And I have been adjusting this type since the mid-60s.
Best of luck.
p.s. And consider using an OEM valve cover gasket. I have had 2 aftermarket ones blow out on me in the last 9 months.
 
the "special tool" may not strictly be needed but they cost peanuts and have a nice big plastic handle that makes it really simple to hold the screw in place ;)
 
seeing how there is 16 adjusters to deal with possibly.......
the yellow plastic knobbed adjuster tool was and is the best few bucks i have ever spent.
pliers/small crescent wrench ect... is a pain is the a$$ to use.
if you change over to long threaded adjusters(racing) they take a small allen wrench and are easy to adjust.
suzuki dealerships sell these yellow handled factory tools and they are pretty cheap.
 
seeing how there is 16 adjusters to deal with possibly.......
the yellow plastic knobbed adjuster tool was and is the best few bucks i have ever spent.
pliers/small crescent wrench ect... is a pain is the a$$ to use.
if you change over to long threaded adjusters(racing) they take a small allen wrench and are easy to adjust.
suzuki dealerships sell these yellow handled factory tools and they are pretty cheap.


You can always tell if valves were adjusted without the tool as the square heads on the adjusted screws are all knarled up :(.

If I was stuck in the desert with only a pair of needle nose plyers and had to adjust valves well you have to do what you have to do but it is not the first choice
 
A finish head screw (I think it's an R2 type and size) screwed into a piece of wooden dowel rod works quite well too. The drive used on those types of screws is the same used on the end of the adjuster. This keeps em from getting rounded off nicely. :)
 
A finish head screw (I think it's an R2 type and size) screwed into a piece of wooden dowel rod works quite well too. The drive used on those types of screws is the same used on the end of the adjuster. This keeps em from getting rounded off nicely. :)

Nice trick Josh ;)
 
A finish head screw (I think it's an R2 type and size) screwed into a piece of wooden dowel rod works quite well too. The drive used on those types of screws is the same used on the end of the adjuster. This keeps em from getting rounded off nicely. :)

Yep, square drive screw. Put a little super glue on the screw before driving it into the dowel, it will hold much better.

Looks like this..at least, mine do.:)

Pics069.jpg
 
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