not a fix but a band aid.
so what's up your a$$ homie?
just bored?
so what's up your a$$ homie?
just bored?
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Yes. I lapped the surfaces with coarse grit compound. Cleaned it with alcohol. Used permanent locktite. and BAGGED it !!! with a 1/2 impact. I believe it is.....forever.
H
Homie
Guest
Thanks Dave, hope it holds!
Terry ... WTF? Living up to your avatar saying I see.
Terry ... WTF? Living up to your avatar saying I see.
E
evh
Guest
I'm having a hard time understanding what cause these crank failures.. Can somebody explain in detail? Is there not a keyway on that taper as well? I just haven't ever had one of these infront of me to see first hand..
The rotor assembly works loose over time. It starts moving on the taper - there's always just enough clearance over the key to allow this. Eventually there's enough movement that the assembly will act as a rotary impact hammer....Given a big enough rev and back off situation it will shock the end off the crank. QED.
The pic posted of the damaged end is the alternative scenario - the key has broken up before the shaft breaks. It's pretty clear that the asembly has been fretting on the taper. For what it's worth the key is not required - there's no need to index the rotor to anything and given a clean taper nothing should move.
The pic posted of the damaged end is the alternative scenario - the key has broken up before the shaft breaks. It's pretty clear that the asembly has been fretting on the taper. For what it's worth the key is not required - there's no need to index the rotor to anything and given a clean taper nothing should move.
K
Kaiser Sosei
Guest
There is no key.
E
evh
Guest
so it's just a tapered press fit with a nut.. no keyway.. Hmm.. so is this what usually happens or has anybody seen the crank break clean between the bearing and rotor?
THERE IS NO KEY WAY!
what does the damage is rolling RPM's high and snapping throttle closed or down shifting like a road racer.
at the track a person need to pull in the clutch at the same time he closes throttle at the end of the track.
just picture the several pounds of material on the very end of the crank spinning.
then abruptly stop or slow down the spinning mass.
that's a lot of force on a small area where all this weight spins.
83 and up 11--/1150 is larger and a lot stronger because of the size difference in the taper area.
(several mm larger).
i have never seen the later snap off...only the 80-82 silver engines(small taper).
let the above absorb into the brain cells
what does the damage is rolling RPM's high and snapping throttle closed or down shifting like a road racer.
at the track a person need to pull in the clutch at the same time he closes throttle at the end of the track.
just picture the several pounds of material on the very end of the crank spinning.
then abruptly stop or slow down the spinning mass.
that's a lot of force on a small area where all this weight spins.
83 and up 11--/1150 is larger and a lot stronger because of the size difference in the taper area.
(several mm larger).
i have never seen the later snap off...only the 80-82 silver engines(small taper).
let the above absorb into the brain cells
I find myself engine braking more than I probably should. Coming off the freeway ramps Im always down shifting the revs up.
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Correct of course - and I apologise for my misleading post. I was fooled by the pic - and a faulty memory. Been a while since i did an 1100 crank - nothing but 8V motors for the last couple of years.
Sorry.
K
Kaiser Sosei
Guest
No problem, ddin't want anyone to get confused and trying to find one in there.