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GS 750ES- Starter/Solenoid Problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter Marshall498
  • Start date Start date
M

Marshall498

Guest
Ok so here is my problem.

My 750 ES was turning over without starting for quite sometime then yesterday after replacing the battery, I turned the bike on all the lights work but when I hit the "start" button all I hear is a click from the solenoid and now the starter wont turn over.

Any thoughts?

Did I burn the Solenoid while trying to get it fired up?

Did the new battery cause the bike to over load with power?
 
First, check your solenoid ground. If it is O.K., then try jumping the solenoid posts (the 2 big ones). If it turns over, get a lawn/garden solenoid. If it does not over, check the voltage at the solenoid spade connector. It should be 12V nominal when you hit the button. If not, check upstream, wiring harness, kill switch, button etc.
 
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You should probably also check the right hand switch control and the run/kill switch and start button contacts. Often these get gunged up and the contacts become dirty and the juice doesn't flow. As you likely know, the voltage from the battery travels to this switch then back out and down to the solenoid as KK mentions so in a working state you should (with key on and switch in the run position) see 12 volts at the connector to the solenoid.

Solenoids do get pooched so if you need to replace it, the $14 lawn tractor model from Lowes is just as good as the $40+ oem unit from Zuk. They are physically a bit larger than oem and contacts may be in a different position than stock so you may have to adapt securing it to the bike but they do work properly.

Good luck and let us know what you find out.

Cheers,
Spyug
 
What im finding is that the Ground peg is touching the seat lock and is arcing...

Since im planning on racing the ol'girl I am thinking of just re mounting the lock somwhere else
 
Marshall498 said:
What im finding is that the Ground peg is touching the seat lock and is arcing...

Since im planning on racing the ol'girl I am thinking of just re mounting the lock somwhere else
Click to expand...
Umm, there is no Ground peg. The body of the solenoid acts as the ground.
There are two posts, as I explained before. One is 12V battery voltage and is hot all the time. The other goes to the starter and only has voltage when the button is pressed. If it is arcing it is either the 12V battery voltage or the other post that goes to the starter. Just trace your wires, figure out which post it is, and then slightly relocate the solenoid.
 
The one closest to the lock is the one that I currently have the positive on (as in goes to the positive part of the battery)


537744_3733610232792_1652130057_2959290_995066974_n.jpg



Also what are the wires for that go into the tranny? I cant find the female ends for them anywhere. I have all lights work, the gear selector as well, so i dont know what they are for....help!

37015_3733630153290_1652130057_2959293_1452305681_n.jpg
 
Marshall498 said:
The one closest to the lock is the one that I currently have the positive on (as in goes to the positive part of the battery)

Also what are the wires for that go into the tranny? I cant find the female ends for them anywhere. I have all lights work, the gear selector as well, so i dont know what they are for....help!
Click to expand...
That is the one going to the battery. That rubber boot is supposed to cover the post, but it looks like you have a bolt there instead of a post. Is this correct? If so, I would replace it with a screw instead of a bolt so the head is smaller. They also make mini-head bolts that would also be smaller. Either way, that boot needs to cover the 12V battery connection. I would also adjust the lock mechanism. It is bolted into slots, move it all the way to the back. You could also grind part of it off, it does not need to be that wide. Or just cut a "U" in it where the bolt is touching it.
Those wires go to the stator.
 
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No its just my crappy camera, the posts are there with nuts on them. I guess I need to borrow my buddys volt meter to do this.

Im hoping that its just me plugging something in the wrong place. because litterally everything was working fine, until I tried to "hide" most of the wires so I could put the side cover on it.

I am currently in the processes of taking off all the electrics that I dont need.
 
No, that post is too close. Move the latch back, cut or grind a groove in it, and put those rubber boots back on. They were placed there for a reason. You probably moved something slightly when you were moving stuff around. They also make a product called liquid rubber or liquid electrical tape (same stuff) that can protect the post as well.
 
koolaid_kid said:
First, check your solenoid ground. If it is O.K., then try jumping the solenoid posts (the 2 big ones). If it does not turn over, get a lawn/garden solenoid. If it turns over, check the voltage at the solenoid spade connector. It should be 12V nominal when you hit the button. If not, check upstream, wiring harness, kill switch, button etc.
Click to expand...

Incorrect, when jumping the 2 large post, all your doing is taking the battery directly to the starter and taking the solenoid out of the circuit, if it doesn't turn over with that, it's either, bad battery or bad starter. There's a smaller wire to the solenoid that comes from the starter button, jump that one, if it only clicks or nothing at all, bad solenoid, if it turns over, backtrace the wires to the start button, kill switch, clutch safety switch, basically, the orange/whit wire everywhere. The solenoid may be bad, or may not. Make sure everything is grounded properly and all connections clean, or you may end up replacing good parts.
 
Oops, I had it backwards. Brainfarts again. I have corrected my original post to be correct.
 
Yeah the major problem im dealing with is that the PO had cut and "fixed" things and now most of the wires are all solid yellow. The Solenoid only clicks when i hit the starter button
 
Marshall498 said:
Yeah the major problem im dealing with is that the PO had cut and "fixed" things and now most of the wires are all solid yellow. The Solenoid only clicks when i hit the starter button
Click to expand...

If you tested and know your battery has a good charge, solenoid has a good ground and only clicks, do the big post jumper to ensure your starter turns over, then it's a bad solenoid.
 
... have you tried taking a ball peen hammer and lightly hitting the starter on all sides and lightly on the base (the non-shafted side)... I am dead serious.

I've fixed many a 'broken' golf-cart with this approach.

Starters can become locked up over time... constant dust, low to no oil, and heat will cause the brushes to become deposited with all sorts of ugly crap that can prevent the charge from getting to the shaft. Whack it lightly all over it... give the starter a couple spins by hand... try pushing the button.

OH, and the starter is self-grounded. So it should be bolted to the motor or have a lead running from it to the negative on the battery when doing testing.

Here's a little setup test I did to test my solenoid and starter:

424018_643816011027_1535045524_n.jpg



Bolt the solenoid directly to the ground... clip a wire from the solenoid lead to the positive... attach one end of the solenoid to the starter post... attach another lead from the negative to the starter body... connect positive from battery to empty post on solenoid...

If it doesn't spin... attach positive cable directly to the post with the wire going to the starter.

If that DOESN'T work... you need a new starter.
If that DOES work... you need a new solenoid.
 
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DannyMotor said:
... have you tried taking a ball peen hammer and lightly hitting the starter on all sides and lightly on the base (the non-shafted side)...

Starters can become locked up over time... constant dust, low to no oil, and heat will cause the brushes to become deposited with all sorts of ugly crap that can prevent the charge from getting to the shaft. Whack it lightly all over it... give the starter a couple spins by hand... try pushing the button.

OH, and the starter is self-grounded. So it should be bolted to the motor or have a lead running from it to the negative on the battery when doing testing.

Here's a little setup test I did to test my solenoid and starter:

424018_643816011027_1535045524_n.jpg



Bolt the solenoid directly to the ground... clip a wire from the solenoid lead to the positive... attach one end of the solenoid to the starter post... attach another lead from the negative to the starter body... connect positive from battery to empty post on solenoid...

If it doesn't spin... disconnect lead from solenoid lead, attach positive cable directly to the post with the wire going to the starter.

If THAT doesn't work... you may need a new starter.
Click to expand...

I know this method might work with an old Ford pick-up, but I'd advise against striking a 30+ year old small starter, as you chance unlodging the magnets, and cause more problems than you started with, hammer not friendly... I know I've done this with old clunkers, but never a bike, starters too costly.
 
I didn't say 'whack the bajezus out of it'... I said "lightly"!!!:rolleyes:

Use a ball peen and whack it lightly...
Use a rubber mallet and whack it medium...
Use pudding and hit it as hard as you want....

Ok, ok... how about take the starter apart and inspect for any electrical scoring on the brushes, and any debris on the magnet surfaces.

Honestly... have you not jumped the solenoid prongs yet?! What's taking so long?

Did you use a non-insulated rod and you died?

Bf1lightning.jpg
 
Alrighty so ill check the starter tonight when im done work. but for now maybe you guys could help me out with some other electrical problems.

These are the ends that come from the stator they are yellow, just dirty.

560727_3737398727502_1652130057_2960562_1180246470_n.jpg


These are the wires that come from the regulator that ill assume plug into the stator.

481278_3737452408844_1652130057_2960590_1246454377_n.jpg


This is where it gets confusing for me anyways, I have no idea what these are for...

555392_3737429128262_1652130057_2960571_170257215_n.jpg


And I have no idea what plugs into these
551260_3737460049035_1652130057_2960591_1623327911_n.jpg
 
First pic - those are ugly. I would cut them off and then use quality spade connectors, double-crimped with shrink tubing for weather sealing and stress relief.
Second pic - really need a pic of all the wires on the R/R. For example, if it is factory it should have 5 wires. A red one that is 12V out. A ground, I think it is black but tracing it's path will tell you. The other 3 go to the stator. Those look like way too small a gauge. They should be 18 gauge minimum.
Third pic - those are not factory connectors. They look like they plug into the current stator connectors, but who knows, they are not factory.
Fourth pic - no idea.
 
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