GS-850 Carbs - where to get replacement float pins, and a ?

[Dave_A]

I can't seem to get the float pins (the hinge pin that goes thru the back end of the floats) out without bending them. So, is there any 'easy replacement' that might be available at a hardware store, or any other way to get replacement pins without ordering them from a dealer or online parts site?

Second, in one case the pin was SO wedged that it broke off one of the mounts (on the opposite side from where I applied the punch) that it goes thru. I've JB Weld-ed it back in place, but I don't know if JB Weld will hold in a carb bowl... Should I be looking for a replacement carb?

Third, I have 2 carbs left to clean. Any tips on how to get that pin out without bending it?

 

[chuckycheese]

Ebay

Ebay

It's easy to find a cheap set on Ebay because they're there almost all the time...even if they're not very good, you'll end up with a bunch of parts you can use. :wink:

 

[Detman101]

Re: GS-850 Carbs - where to get replacement float pins, and

Re: GS-850 Carbs - where to get replacement float pins, and

Second, in one case the pin was SO wedged that it broke off one of the mounts (on the opposite side from where I applied the punch) that it goes thru. I've JB Weld-ed it back in place, but I don't know if JB Weld will hold in a carb bowl... Should I be looking for a replacement carb?

Third, I have 2 carbs left to clean. Any tips on how to get that pin out without bending it?

Hello Dave.

I too, had the problem of a broken float post/mount. The JB Weld will not hold it and it will get soft and gum up your carbs requiring a thorough cleaning of your fuel system and carbs. When I got my GS750L the shop owner was basically getting rid of it because they couldn't get the carbs to act right because the float post was broken. The JB weld technique didn't work for them and they couldn't think of anything else to do and didn't want to invest in new carbs for the bike. So they sold it to me for super cheap.
When I got the bike this is what I did to repair the broken float post.

1. Get all of the JB weld off of the carb.
2. buy a set of small "Spring Pins" from a hardware or auto store like pep-boys. They come in a box of 6 and have various sizes.
3. Take the carb and drill a small hole (a little smaller than the Spring-pin that you choose)in the CENTER of the post on both halves so that they line up and the post is straight. The hole must be long enough to hold the Spring-pin securely.
4. Take one of the smaller spring pins and clip it in half or to the size of the holes you drilled in the float post. Lightly tap in the spring pin into the carb side of the broken post until it is seated in solid.
5. Then measure up the hole on the other broken side of the float post and trim the Spring-pin to make sure it will fit flush once inside the broken side of the float post.
6. Lightly tap the broken side of the float post onto the spring-pin and make sure that the 2 sides seat flush with each other and the holes for the float pin line up.
7. Then put your carbs back together and make sure the float is not skewed in any direction and it should work like stock. And you won't have to worry about clogging up your carbs with JB weld that goes all soft in gasoline.

Oh, to get the pins out without breaking anything I usually use a pair of fairly sharp dykes to grab right underneath the flat-head side of the pins and leverage them out. No hammers necessary!

Hope I helped,
Dm of mD

 

[Detman101]

Or you could just buy a new set of carbs off of ebay hehe...
(I did that too...just in case I needed spare parts) :wink:

Dm of mD

 

[Dave_A]

Re: GS-850 Carbs - where to get replacement float pins, and

Re: GS-850 Carbs - where to get replacement float pins, and

Oh, to get the pins out without breaking anything I usually use a pair of fairly sharp dykes to grab right underneath the flat-head side of the pins and leverage them out. No hammers necessary!

Translation?

I've never heard of a tool called a 'dyke'...

Also, on these the flat head is flush with the post...

 

[chuckycheese]

Dike

Dike

Dikes (or dykes) are similar to wire cutters except they're usually short, stout bodied and almost round nosed...I'm not sure it's a real word (under that meaning) because it's not in my dictionary, as such. :roll:

 

[Detman101]

RIght chuck...my bad. I call they dykes but they're wire cutters...
Why I call em dykes I dunno....but that's what I know em as.
Hope I didn't offend anyone.


:roll:
Dm of mD

 

[whodatpat]

Linemans plyers are ofter refered to as Line Dyke's. I dont know why.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00930405000

 

[Detman101]

The ones I'm talking about are the ones on the left in this picture.

Dm of mD

 

[chuckycheese]

Dykes

Dykes

I wasn't implying you weren't correct DM......I use that term all the time and I knew just exactly what you were talking about. :lol:

 

[Detman101]

Awesome, hehe. I wondered if I was the only one calling em that.

:lol:
Dm of mD

 

[Mobetter]

I fixed a post on my carb and haven't had a bit of problem with it.
I used two component epoxy.

I took a very small drill bit and drilled straight down into
where the post broke off then did the same for the post
making sure both holes were exactly in the middle.
I then cut a very small nail down to size.
I put little epoxy on both sides, where the nail fit in, and
around the outside.
Let it cure 24 hrs.
Over a year ago, no problems at all

Peace
Mo

 

[Anonymous]

To remove the pins I use a pair of linesman pliers and a pair of side cutters. With the carbs upside down I use the linesman pliers straight up and down. Put one side of the pliers on the mounting pole and the other end on the end of the pin and squeeze. This will push the pin in flush. Then use the side cutters and squeeze the head of the pin until it pops out. When putting them back in don't push them past flush with the post. If you don't have it in far enough it will be difficult to put the float bowl back on.

Good luck, Steve

 

[Anonymous]

Drill it.

Drill it.

File the broken pieces flat. One piece being the carb body and the other the post. This will crate a space between them. Drill a hole in both flat surfaces. Screw a srew down into the hole that you drilled in the carb. Do not use a screw that is so large it will split the metal. The soft aluminum will thread itself with the steel screw. Dremel off the screw head and run the post down on the stud you just made. Eye ball, or use a STAIGHT pin to get the height of the posts lined up.

Get yourself 4 straight pins, and make sure the ends are not beat up by them being tapped out. The more times you tap them out the more beat up and tight in the hole they will get. The more tight they get the more they will bend and break your posts off. The post you screwed on will never break again, but once you break one you learn not to break them any more.

 

[Anonymous]

Re: GS-850 Carbs - where to get replacement float pins

Re: GS-850 Carbs - where to get replacement float pins

Dykes -- side cuts -- nippers -- they're all the same, and work well for removing float pins (not to mention cutting wires -- go figure). :lol: :lol:

Awana grand-prix car axles are a drop in replacement for the BS32SS CV carbs. Pine box derby cars are similar, so you can most likely visit your local hobby store to get a set.

Brian

 

[Anonymous]

Hello, last year when I rebuilt my 34mm carbs I just used my dremel tool with a cutoff wheel. The wheel is so slim that I could cut the pin in between the post and float tang, then I proceeded to push out the remnants with a punch. When it came time to acquire new pins I used stainless steel tig wire, this I cut long enough to go past both the posts but just under the inside width of the fuel bowl. These pins now just free float with no binding what so ever. Now in the future if I have to change the float valves or o-rings, etc I can do so with ease. Good luck.

 

[Dave_A]

My local dealer just happened to have 2 NOS float pins.

The wire-snips route worked for the other 2...

JB Weld didn't work, so I took the carb body to the local independant bike shop, where they used an actual welder on it...

Carbs cleaned, installed, and the bike runs just fine... Now I just gotta get it home ...

$300, a few hours of carb cleaning -> very nice GS850GL...

 

[Anonymous]

Glad to see I'm not the only one who had troubles with the post breaking when removing the float pin. Mine had actually been broken by a previous owner and was JB welded. I tried to do the same, but more experienced biker friends talked me out of it. Right now I have the post set with a rod placed into holes drilled into the base and broken off post and some aluminum weld that built it up. It's all filed down to fit, but if it turns out to be a problem, I see that I have some other options from this discussion. I certainly appreciate the input. It's nice to know I'm not alone.