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GS Big Block

  • Thread starter Thread starter yoshisakan
  • Start date Start date
Mine was pretty straight forward same number of wires for ignition I would use Gsxr, bandit or katana coils. The alternator just needs a switched 12v on the excite wire and the charge wire runs through a 30a circuit breaker to the battery.
 
after reading this I am still thinking on doing a 1326, what I would like to know is there any advantage in using a 1150 block over a 83 1100e block , or use a aftermarket block ,
 
wildeye said:
after reading this I am still thinking on doing a 1326, what I would like to know is there any advantage in using a 1150 block over a 83 1100e block , or use a aftermarket block ,
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I'll let you hijack my thread, as soon as someone sends me a writeup on installing a bandit 1200 engine.
akckhim - What did you do for the tach? It looks like the bandit has an electronic tach. Are you using Bandit gauges?

I can answer to your question slightly though, I believe the 1100 and 1150 blocks are the same, just with a different bore/stroke. Do you already have an 1100 block?
 
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yoshisakan said:
I'll let you hijack my thread, as soon as someone sends me a writeup on installing a bandit 1200 engine.

I can answer to your question slightly though, I believe the 1100 and 1150 blocks are the same, just with a different bore/stroke. Do you already have an 1100 block?
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IIRC, The 1150 cylinder is thicker and can be bored larger. The 72mm 1100 can be done +3mm to 1166 75 mm . The 1150 is already 74 mm but I think can probably go +3 mm from there (1229 or 77mm). Check out the ape website the list all the piston combinations.

Wow. I just checked APE is no longer listing GS1100/GS1150 pistons. I wonder if these have all been discontinued?

Dynoman still lists them all.

http://dynoman.net/engine/pistons/suzi.html
 
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No one has a shelf piston in a 77mm bore, with an 18mm pin for an 1100 anymore. I have a standing order at CP for these as I do 3-7 of them a year still. The 77mm pistons you see out there are all either for a 20mm wrist pin or high compression. Ray.
 
akckhim said:
Mine was pretty straight forward same number of wires for ignition I would use Gsxr, bandit or katana coils. The alternator just needs a switched 12v on the excite wire and the charge wire runs through a 30a circuit breaker to the battery.
Click to expand...

Use the 1150. The 1260 sleeves are too thin to go 1327, and if you try to put the 1327 sleeve in an 1100 block it will probably break thru into the air passages.
 
rapidray said:
Want to bet?!! Ive DONE it! I had a 1400 daily driver in HAWAII, in traffic EVERY day, 182 @ the rear wheel at 9200 rpm & not 1 problem in 2 years. Ray.
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What was fuel consumption like?
I'm not being sarcastic, Winter is coming and I'm gathering information.
It will be my daily driver. I don't think I'll do 1400 but I can use it as a maximum.
 
Big Jay said:
Once you get over 1260 / 1327cc you would need a cylinder head that cost more than the rest of the motorcycle, just to feed it.

The bigger motors require heads that have relocated and/or canted intake valves to try and get 33 mm valves in it. That is very high maintaince stuff.

I was glad when the busa came out so we didn't have to build that kind of stuff anymore.

Now it is just 1260/1327 with 29.5/24 heads for street bikes.
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I'm wondering if this The GS Resources has an unbiased list of businesses to deal with. Not because they get payed to mention there name but because of good references and community involvement?
 
rapidray said:
A 31/27 head will support over 250 HP on a 1500 cc motor so I disagree with the "unobtanium" headwork for big motors. Yes, Busa heads are a better platform for headwork but the GS heads are what we have been dealt & I do the best I can with the hand I have been dealt. Big GS street motors are a BLAST due to their torque advantage more than just about anything else. Hell, you want some REAL fun, a 1400cc GS, with STOCK head & cams, with correctly jetted 1150 carbs will smoke the back tire in 2nd gear roll ons!!! The torque from a motor like that WILL yank your arms straight! Until you have ridden a bike with a motor like that you just have NO idea! Ray.
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Now I don't know what to believe? :mad:
I'll keep reading.
 
Any business mentioned here is not paid advertising or sponsorship. This is the so called "word of mouth". If someone has a problem with a vendor, it is pretty quickly known. Ray
 
c&c said:
Now I don't know what to believe? :mad:
I'll keep reading.
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If you are referring to going 1400, that is with an aftermarket block. The stock 1150 blocks I only go to a max of 1327 & 1260 on the 1100 blocks. My # is 714--356-7845 if you ever have questions. Ray.
 
rapidray said:
If you are referring to going 1400, that is with an aftermarket block. The stock 1150 blocks I only go to a max of 1327 & 1260 on the 1100 blocks. My # is 714--356-7845 if you ever have questions. Ray.
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Guys! I wish I had your combined knowledge!
 
They REALLY aren't hard to build. You gain experience with every one you do. I was luckier than most having grown up in my Dad's race shop. Make your decision what size you want to build & I will be happy to help you with a specific list of what parts you will need & how to make it live at the power level you decide you want. Ray.
 
rapidray said:
They REALLY aren't hard to build. You gain experience with every one you do. I was luckier than most having grown up in my Dad's race shop. Make your decision what size you want to build & I will be happy to help you with a specific list of what parts you will need & how to make it live at the power level you decide you want. Ray.
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Super!

Ill be posting soon. Winter is coming. :(
 
I'm picking up my new bandit 1200 engine tonight! First step is a tear down to replace the gaskets and do head work. Are 1mm oversized valves worth the additional ~$800? I'm going to get it ported, polished, cammed and otherwise built before I install it on the bike.

Also, anyone know the weight difference between the 16v 1100 and the bandit 1200?
 
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That head will use 30mm intakes & 26mm exhaust valves with just a valve job. Worth the money! Ray.
 
rapidray said:
That head will use 30mm intakes & 26mm exhaust valves with just a valve job. Worth the money! Ray.
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Ray, I meant that it will cost me another $800 to use 1mm bigger valves. Is that worth it? I don't own a flow bench (yet) and don't know the cfm that the stock head flows vs bigger valves, nor can I really translate that to HP gains. I need some math and numbers haha

I did pick the engine up yesterday though. It's the cleanest 29k engine i've ever seen. Did a leak down test and the valves need lapped a bit, but the piston rings are solid. It held 95 psi with no air leaking into the crank case. Best $700 spent ever.
 
The valves cost the same amount, no matter what size. You will have to do a valve job regardless so it will be better to go with the bigger valves so they are already in there later when you decide to go bigger pistons & cams. Yes, it is worth the money. To give you an idea, the valves are 400, valve job 250, seals 45, springs 110, porting 400, & disassemble, clean, reassemble setting spring pressures 100, for a total of 1305. That would be a head that would support 180 hp EASILY & work on a motor from stock to as big as 1400cc. All new parts & a very streetable or raceable head. That is just to give you an idea what you are looking at to have one built. Be careful if you are dealing with an automotive machine shop as bike heads are a little different than car heads. A RACING shop automotive machinist will know how to do them right if they are a GOOD shop. Ray.
 
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rapidray said:
The valves cost the same amount, no matter what size. You will have to do a valve job regardless so it will be better to go with the bigger valves so they are already in there later when you decide to go bigger pistons & cams. Yes, it is worth the money. To give you an idea, the valves are 400, valve job 250, seals 45, springs 110, porting 400, & disassemble, clean, reassemble setting spring pressures 100, for a total of 1195. That would be a head that would support 180 hp EASILY & work on a motor from stock to as big as 1400cc. All new parts & a very streetable or raceable head. That is just to give you an idea what you are looking at to have one built. Be careful if you are dealing with an automotive machine shop as bike heads are a little different than car heads. A RACING shop automotive machinist will know how to do them right if they are a GOOD shop. Ray.
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Yeah, if I have the head off, i'm going to replace the head and base gaskets with metal ones if I can find them, definitely ordering cams too. I feel like the piston rings are in great shape, so i'll run with them until they cause a problem or until I throw a street shot of nitrous at it, haha. Do you know of any good shops near Cleveland?
 
i believe the gaskets are steel shim type already.
not sure if motorhead(dennis) is still doing his thing in cleveland.
 
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