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GS Stator Selection?

srsupertrap

srsupertrap

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
I recently replaced both the OEM Rectifer and OEM Regulator on my GS1000 with a Rick's P/N 10-202 R&R. I also cleaned up the wiring harness by cutting out stiff (cooked) sections of wiring and replacing the suspect sections with the original GS colored wires, resoldering & heat shrinking etc to make everything look neat & professional.

Before soldering the new Rick's R&R leads to the OEM Stator leads I wondered out aloud whether I should replace the Stator as well. The OEM stator has worked well for a decade now and this is probably attributable to the monster grounds I incorporated in the 1990's after the 2nd charging system meltdown. I run a VDO Voltmeter directly across the Battery to monitor it. When my GS is idling the OEM Stator cannot keep up and Battery voltage drops below 12.5 Volts which is normal and gets worse with heat build up.

Since there are several Stator replacement choices available I was wondering has anyone measured the output of the various aftermarket Stators. My personal selection criteria is 1. Performance 2. Reliability & 3. Cost. I would be interested in learning whether any of the choices listed below actually can maintain Battery Voltage at 1000-1100 RPM with Lights On. I have provided links to Rick's, Electrosport & Ebay RMStator. The later I know nothing about but they claim a 10% increase in output & offer a 1 Year Warranty.

PS: Thanks spchips for the GS1000 Harness.

http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php?c=partLookup

http://www.electrosport.com/street/street-model-products-listing-street_59700.php

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUZU...002QQitemZ120207950508QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V
 
One Data Point

One Data Point

I did measure the output of my 81GS750EX after swapping out the stator for an electrosport model. Yes it is supposed to be better, but I could not particularly tell any voltage difference.

On the other hand if anything the Electrosport may have even been lower, but this might have been by design. There are some posts on here about different winding designs to avoid over charging.

Also more voltage out will over whelm the little R/R which is trying to shunt any excess so more is not really better in this case unless you know you have a load to provide that power to.

So you might want to re think you objective #1.......

Without getting into all of the details (as I don't remember or understand all ) you are probably better of with something new rather that something old for the obvious reasons (deterioration of the insulation). The upgrade as I recall was thicker wire and less windings. This provides more stator current capacity but less output. So there you go for a primary upgrade in direct conflict with #1 (if you mean voltage performance).

The PO of my GS1100ED had the Dealer replace with OEM parts the stator and R/R and I don't have any intention of swapping out that stator (although the R/R might go to a Honda unit). It is new and looks even better that the electroscope (physically). This is probably as important as anything else as you are looking for quality construction which will be rugged and not short out. The stator is just basically wire wound around poles.


Posplayr
 
As I understand it, the aftermarket stators put out a little less AC voltage (IIRC, they read around 45-50 volts instead of 65-70 during a no-load test), but more current.

AC voltage is related to the number of turns of wire, while current carrying capacity is related to the thickness of the wire. They use thicker wire to wind aftermarket stators, but fewer turns of wire will fit. (To mangle an analogy, voltage= water pressure and current=flow. Bigger pipes can carry more water but at a lower pressure.)

Short of a Gold Wing with an aftermarket alternator designed to power all the lighted crap people stick onto those parade floats, I've never seen a motorcycle that generates full voltage and current at idle.

However, a healthy charging system will surpass battery voltage by 2,000 rpm or a little lower and should be generating full voltage shortly thereafter depending on load. Idling in front of your garage, blip the throttle, and the headlight should get a little brighter.

It's really not an issue whatsoever unless you do all your riding at 5mph in Shriner parades.
 
Analogies

Analogies

>>>(To mangle an analogy, voltage= water pressure and current=flow. Bigger pipes can carry more water but at a lower pressure.)

Hope I don't appear to be an "know it all", but the analogy is not really "mangled" :oops:

I can't find it at the moment, but in an undergraduate but Senior level fluid dynamics class we were taught the electrical equivalents. So there is plenty of theory supporting the analysis methodology. I use it all of the time. Also found a couple of links :)

http://www.eas.asu.edu/~holbert/analogy.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kirchhoff's_circuit_laws



Posplayr
 
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Follow Up ?

Follow Up ?

Thank you both for the information; Bwringer, that is a good analogy of the voltage & current. I was interested in the Battery voltage @ idle because I converted the front turn signals into running lights way back when. I also currently run a VDO Voltmeter & VDO Oil Temp gauge.

What's your opinion on that "cheaper" RMStator on Ebay? It has a 1 Year Warranty and the seller feedback appears okay. I am being penny wise & pound foolish in considering it or should I just purchase the Electrosport?

Thanks in advance.
 
first you need to understand the electrical system is not designed to charge the battery but to cover the loads only. argue if you like but this is a true statement.

unloaded ac test MUST go to 80 ACV at 4~6K rpm on all 3 stator legs or you already are dealing with a low output. new stator part or not.

do not forget that the rotor can loose magnetism and lower the field efficiency too. (heat, age, shock,impact, will cause the magnets to loose magnetism) causing low AC output.

headlight full time modification from factory causes charging problems too. inside wiring harness at the hi/low beam on / off switch area.
 
do you have any pictures...

do you have any pictures...

of your on-board voltage meter? I've been bit by the charging system bug 2x now and having something similar would atleast quiet that little voice stealing away my confidence when setting off on a long ride.

Thanks!
 
My replacement stator from bikebandit ($107) puts out an even 56v on all 3 readings. Charging readings are right where they're supposed to be at the battery. This was compared to single digit readings from the old, defective stator.
 
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