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M
mike-s
Guest
Got the front forks together with the dummy spacers which are 20mm longer than the spacer+cut off length to increase the pre-load slightly for testing. I can cut it down by 10mm or even back to "original" if i need to, but the docco i linked to recommended this be done to help hone in the optimal setting. It's looking good thus far, but i can't really test the loading until mid next week or so due to the lack of a front brake hose.
To keep Pete and the curious calm i put the bashplate in an approximate position so i can figure out precisely how much to cut off the corners at the front. Thus far i think i'm Moving in the right direction if i do something like this.
That is only approximate, but still it means I can bring the corner in to be approximately in line with the chassis and not protruding in the nasty manner that it currently is. I didn't cut the corner down prior to bending in the off chance i managed to cut too much off, which would leave me with an expensive bit of metal to hammer things on.
A side on view, this still gives me 18.5cm of clearance, at least 4.5 and possibly more above stock. This is WITH the tree running about 2cm down on the forks as you can see in the bottom photo! In case anyone is curious, that socket is sitting there to help the plate balance in the right spot.
A view from the front, this certainly looks like it could work
As to the mountings, i think i'm likely going to go with one at the front between the headers, an extended bolt on the engine mount with a rather stiff spacer and something towards the rear, i'll take it out in the light of day and try and get more of a direction on this tomorrow.
Also backed the rear shock down to the 2nd lowest setting, looks a bit better but still something I will finesse once the brake line is on.
To keep Pete and the curious calm i put the bashplate in an approximate position so i can figure out precisely how much to cut off the corners at the front. Thus far i think i'm Moving in the right direction if i do something like this.
That is only approximate, but still it means I can bring the corner in to be approximately in line with the chassis and not protruding in the nasty manner that it currently is. I didn't cut the corner down prior to bending in the off chance i managed to cut too much off, which would leave me with an expensive bit of metal to hammer things on.
A side on view, this still gives me 18.5cm of clearance, at least 4.5 and possibly more above stock. This is WITH the tree running about 2cm down on the forks as you can see in the bottom photo! In case anyone is curious, that socket is sitting there to help the plate balance in the right spot.
A view from the front, this certainly looks like it could work
As to the mountings, i think i'm likely going to go with one at the front between the headers, an extended bolt on the engine mount with a rather stiff spacer and something towards the rear, i'll take it out in the light of day and try and get more of a direction on this tomorrow.
Also backed the rear shock down to the 2nd lowest setting, looks a bit better but still something I will finesse once the brake line is on.
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G
Guest
Guest
Cool, I'm just paranoid about brakes after attempting to stop in my first car pointed down hill at a brick wall when the master cylinder carked it. I was able to pump the brakes up just in time but I get paranoid about brakes now
True, just my paranoia at play...
Cool, seems to make sense to me, not that that means much of course...
Yep, I reckon that will work
Mate that all sounds and looks good, and I still need to do something about a bash plate for mine yet too. I shouldn't have pipes where you do to worry about though, just the sump maybe, wait and see.
Hopefully that brake line shows up quick smart and you can get it together
M
mike-s
Guest
I've figured out the cut to make and have done it on one side. Wasted time trying to use the dremel cutoff wheels. Gave up after it ate 3 of the wheels in less than 2 minutes each and went back to the hacksaw i had started with. even then it was a royal bastard to make the cut. Part of me wishes i had made the cut prior to the bend, but the problem is i doubt i would have gotten the cut right had i decided to do it/get it done prior to the bend. Going to take another 20 minutes to make the second cut. I wasted more time trying to get the dremel to work than it took actually doing the damned thing by hand, go figure.
Oh and got an ebay notification that the line was posted out today. Might be lucky and it gets here on Monday maybe Tuesday.
Oh and got an ebay notification that the line was posted out today. Might be lucky and it gets here on Monday maybe Tuesday.
G
Guest
Guest
Man I feel your pain! I've done that a few times with making things like my choke adaptor, in the end it was just quicker with the hacksaw.
I went through two of the flimsy cut off wheels on the fibreglass yesterday but the reinforced one did the trick.
Hopefully that brake line will sort you out quick smart and you can take it for a run
I went through two of the flimsy cut off wheels on the fibreglass yesterday but the reinforced one did the trick.
Hopefully that brake line will sort you out quick smart and you can take it for a run
M
mike-s
Guest
Well i decided to bury myself in the garage for a little while tonight and finish off the front cuts to the plate. Also decided it might be a good idea to take a photo from the side that still has the crash guard mounted so i could try and get some more ideas.
Thus far i think i think i have a rough idea on how this mounting thing is going to work.
I think i might make a T style mount that will fit on the front engine mountings around the outside of the crashbar mounts, with a brazed on aluminium stem going down between the downpipes to a brazed on flat plate that will bolt to the crash guard.
I'm then going to get some thick aluminium tubing (or rod and drill the inside out to spec) and using brazing, make a spacer and a vertical mount onto some L shaped mounts just outside of the underslung chassis bars.
The rear mounts are going to be the hard ones to do, and i have a couple of ideas regarding that. The first is to make an "A" mount for the rear of the bashplate, with the top of the A being removeable and only used to secure the bottom of the A, which would go underneath the chassis bar.
That is unless i tack weld on a couple of mounting loops to the rear of the underslung bars, and if i do this i might as well do the very same thing to the front mounts as well.
Not exactly something i was planning or wanting to do within the first dozen hours of using a stick welder. Here i was going to be proud of myself if i used it to merely extend the sidestand.
Thus far i think i think i have a rough idea on how this mounting thing is going to work.
I think i might make a T style mount that will fit on the front engine mountings around the outside of the crashbar mounts, with a brazed on aluminium stem going down between the downpipes to a brazed on flat plate that will bolt to the crash guard.
I'm then going to get some thick aluminium tubing (or rod and drill the inside out to spec) and using brazing, make a spacer and a vertical mount onto some L shaped mounts just outside of the underslung chassis bars.
The rear mounts are going to be the hard ones to do, and i have a couple of ideas regarding that. The first is to make an "A" mount for the rear of the bashplate, with the top of the A being removeable and only used to secure the bottom of the A, which would go underneath the chassis bar.
That is unless i tack weld on a couple of mounting loops to the rear of the underslung bars, and if i do this i might as well do the very same thing to the front mounts as well.
Not exactly something i was planning or wanting to do within the first dozen hours of using a stick welder. Here i was going to be proud of myself if i used it to merely extend the sidestand.
Just my .02 worth here. I just LOVE the yellow and black.. It reminds me of an old Super Bee. Just looks like a pizzed off yellow jacket just waiting to sting your azz!!!!
M
mike-s
Guest
To make registration easier, although i do dig the yellow/black too, I'm just going to go with painting it all blue again as that is what is on the registration label and is going to give me the least number of hassles. Besides i don't mind the dark blue that much, looks quite alright to me.
I've attached a rough idea of what i was thinking for the rear mounts. The basic idea is that the bottom bit mounts to the plate, and there is the cap that goes over the top of the frame tube simply to hold it in place & stop any harmonics/buzzing.
I feel a bit more comfortable doing something like that than i do about welding on the frame, and this one i can put a couple of pop rivets to hold it in place and then braze it onto the plate.
I've attached a rough idea of what i was thinking for the rear mounts. The basic idea is that the bottom bit mounts to the plate, and there is the cap that goes over the top of the frame tube simply to hold it in place & stop any harmonics/buzzing.
I feel a bit more comfortable doing something like that than i do about welding on the frame, and this one i can put a couple of pop rivets to hold it in place and then braze it onto the plate.
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G
Guest
Guest
If I'm interpreting what you mean correctly, sounds like it will work just fine.
So is it done yet?
My bash plate is way down on my list at the moment... getting the bike back with the shiny new Tranzac on it is priority one
So is it done yet?
My bash plate is way down on my list at the moment... getting the bike back with the shiny new Tranzac on it is priority one
Will the front height of that plate add an unneeded amount of air spoilage from the front of the engine? Maybe just go with about a 1 inch frontal slope. Seems you would want as much unimpeeded area to have air flow across.
M
mike-s
Guest
I forgot to mention that i'll be putting some minor bracing in along the cutout section i removed, likely just a small 8x3cm fillet or something just to strengthen things up without adding too much weight back.
Once i get the bracing and mounting setup finalised, I will be cross drilling it with a myriad of 9.5mm holes (that's the largest drill bit i own) with a minimum of one every 3-4cm or so, and certainly will drill them at a higher density near the exhaust (and will likely take out to slots, see this, this and this as an example of what i'm aiming for) along the front to reduce the impact on cooling, given that about 20% of the cooling effect will come from the finning on the sump itself.
However the holes are going to be sorted out after i get the mountings done correctly.
As to spoilage of the air, i can always cut it down a little bit more if it turns out to be a touch too high.
Once i get the bracing and mounting setup finalised, I will be cross drilling it with a myriad of 9.5mm holes (that's the largest drill bit i own) with a minimum of one every 3-4cm or so, and certainly will drill them at a higher density near the exhaust (and will likely take out to slots, see this, this and this as an example of what i'm aiming for) along the front to reduce the impact on cooling, given that about 20% of the cooling effect will come from the finning on the sump itself.
However the holes are going to be sorted out after i get the mountings done correctly.
As to spoilage of the air, i can always cut it down a little bit more if it turns out to be a touch too high.
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G
Guest
Guest
Yeah those holes are a must... after all they're air cooled motors
I think with the right sized holes in the right location there shouldn't be much if any disruption to air flow.
I think with the right sized holes in the right location there shouldn't be much if any disruption to air flow.
M
mike-s
Guest
Well in SOME good news the new brake line arrived today. I'll be fitting it tomorrow morning & try and do a bit of basic setup.
I want to get the sidestand thing sorted in this shift break if i get a chance to.
I want to get the sidestand thing sorted in this shift break if i get a chance to.
W
Woodsy
Guest
yeah i think it comes up abit high at the front, i would come up maybe 2 inches from the bend just enough to cover the edge of the exhaust.
M
mike-s
Guest
Will see how it goes, but I went with the theory of it being easier to cut away material than try and put it back.
And I looked into the por15 thing and have gotten a couple of ideas.
1) sprayers (alternate supplier), clearcoats diamond seal or diamond Finish Clear Coat or maybe hardnose. I'll just have to make sure i sit upwind when spraying this crap.
2) Maybe clearcoat in a spraycan.
3) Or just use an acrylic spraypaint and once it's finished just paint on a clearcoat (another type, which seems like it'll be better). This last option is probably the safest one.
And I looked into the por15 thing and have gotten a couple of ideas.
1) sprayers (alternate supplier), clearcoats diamond seal or diamond Finish Clear Coat or maybe hardnose. I'll just have to make sure i sit upwind when spraying this crap.
2) Maybe clearcoat in a spraycan.
3) Or just use an acrylic spraypaint and once it's finished just paint on a clearcoat (another type, which seems like it'll be better). This last option is probably the safest one.
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G
Guest
Guest
Good news on the brake line arriving! Will be good to see it hooked up and to see you get it out for a spin...
As to the clear coats, the Glisten PC is the way to go, it's good stuff. I have some here that I was going to use for the case covers but decided against it. Not sure if it will be enough to do the tank etc. though, pretty sure I only got the 340mL tin.
As to the clear coats, the Glisten PC is the way to go, it's good stuff. I have some here that I was going to use for the case covers but decided against it. Not sure if it will be enough to do the tank etc. though, pretty sure I only got the 340mL tin.
M
mike-s
Guest
Well i'm getting some forward progress, slowly. The new brake line is fitted, the only fun i had was forgetting just how much i had to wind the bleed nipple out to actually get the thing to bleed, has to come out twice as far as any other brake caliper I've had the pleasure of bleeding. Unfortunately i keep forgetting this and waste a good 30 minutes at each re-bleed every time i do it before i remember.
The heated & bent pillion peg/exhaust mounts have had the primer metal brushed to give a good bedding surface and have been painted in an acrylic black that perfectly matches the existing chassis paint and is designed to bed to bare metal as well as pre-existing paint. I think once the mechanicals are sorted i'll definitely be brushing back and then masking off the engine and other bits i don't want to paint and giving it a couple of coats to help it start looking nice & purdy. It's a bit of a half arsed job, but with the practice I've had with doing this kind of thing, it'll still look pretty neat.
The next snafu I've discovered (and should have checked earlier), is the speedo cable is short. It will connect, but with the forks sitting as high as i can fit them in the triples, there is absolutely no slack in them when i hook it up, which is not a good thing to say the least. I've contacted a few ebay sellers whom are selling new old stock Suzuki speedo cables as well as one that appears to make them, so if no one else can find one to suit, I might have to persue getting a custom one manufactured. I still haven't sorted the suspension out and will finalise that once i'm actually able to tell how damn fast i am travelling. I do not want to resort to an electronic speedo or an after market digital dash as they would look out of place, though they are admittedly a damn sight easier to get working.
I haven't gotten much further with it as I've been chasing some electrical gremlins with the indicators on my RF900 that are turning out to be quite a pain in the arse to figure out. Electrical contact cleaner as well as reseating any and all connectors i can find as well as disassembling the switchblock and replacing the blinker can have all come to naught.
Time to get an electrical schematic, multimeter and lengths of wire out and see what i can sort out on the bigger bike. I am really hoping that it is straightforward to pinpoint when i've got the right tools at hand. That way i can actually go for a ride for the first time in months while the 250 is still a work in progress.
The heated & bent pillion peg/exhaust mounts have had the primer metal brushed to give a good bedding surface and have been painted in an acrylic black that perfectly matches the existing chassis paint and is designed to bed to bare metal as well as pre-existing paint. I think once the mechanicals are sorted i'll definitely be brushing back and then masking off the engine and other bits i don't want to paint and giving it a couple of coats to help it start looking nice & purdy. It's a bit of a half arsed job, but with the practice I've had with doing this kind of thing, it'll still look pretty neat.
The next snafu I've discovered (and should have checked earlier), is the speedo cable is short. It will connect, but with the forks sitting as high as i can fit them in the triples, there is absolutely no slack in them when i hook it up, which is not a good thing to say the least. I've contacted a few ebay sellers whom are selling new old stock Suzuki speedo cables as well as one that appears to make them, so if no one else can find one to suit, I might have to persue getting a custom one manufactured. I still haven't sorted the suspension out and will finalise that once i'm actually able to tell how damn fast i am travelling. I do not want to resort to an electronic speedo or an after market digital dash as they would look out of place, though they are admittedly a damn sight easier to get working.
I haven't gotten much further with it as I've been chasing some electrical gremlins with the indicators on my RF900 that are turning out to be quite a pain in the arse to figure out. Electrical contact cleaner as well as reseating any and all connectors i can find as well as disassembling the switchblock and replacing the blinker can have all come to naught.
Time to get an electrical schematic, multimeter and lengths of wire out and see what i can sort out on the bigger bike. I am really hoping that it is straightforward to pinpoint when i've got the right tools at hand. That way i can actually go for a ride for the first time in months while the 250 is still a work in progress.
S
Sunburn
Guest
I just reviewed this post for the first time today. I have thought of doing a project like this in the past. This is great.
One thought I had was that skid plate would look great and mount a lot better without them pipes in the way. Have you thought about re-routing the pipes up high above your crash bars? Even better, run both down the same side.
This would increase clearance, change the whole look and allow that skid plate to mount securely so it can take a good beating. Clearance is everything.
One thought I had was that skid plate would look great and mount a lot better without them pipes in the way. Have you thought about re-routing the pipes up high above your crash bars? Even better, run both down the same side.
This would increase clearance, change the whole look and allow that skid plate to mount securely so it can take a good beating. Clearance is everything.
G
Guest
Guest
Mate, progress! Always a good thing no matter how small
That sucks on the speedo cable, didn't even cross my mind either! Have you got a local dealer? Could be worth the extra $$$ just to take it in and compare with what they have on the shelf... The one I go to up here would look for me if it wasn't their busy time.
And I hate electrical troubleshooting, can be a royal PITA... so good luck!
M
mike-s
Guest
Have already gone to "my local" whom have a bunch of cables as well as the local wreckers, neither of whom have anything that can help. I figured showing pictures & measurements to ebay sellers with dozens of cables was likely my best lead as any other bike shop i know just doesn't keep a lot of "old crap" in stock and it's an order in "as needed" basis.
Sunburn, i've considered that, but unfortunately to get that happening i would need to spend money on a new exhaust, heat guards for my leg and the various bits of plastic on the side. The cost of the exhaust itself totally negates the benefits i would gain due to how obscenely expensive it would be to make. The self-fabrication method is negated at this point as although i may have a stick welder, i certainly wouldn't have the skill needed for a very very long time.
Also I would have a number of other concerns like ease of access to the battery, which is removed via the right hand side under the side cover. The choke would also be an issue if i was to move it to the left side as i'm yet to convert it to using a handlebar item like on more modern bikes, although I guess it is totally achievable. However It also increases the cost & complexity of the whole thing by another order of magnitude if i go down that avenue too, another reason I've not ventured down that path. Though i don't have any plans to go down that road, at least not yet.
Sunburn, i've considered that, but unfortunately to get that happening i would need to spend money on a new exhaust, heat guards for my leg and the various bits of plastic on the side. The cost of the exhaust itself totally negates the benefits i would gain due to how obscenely expensive it would be to make. The self-fabrication method is negated at this point as although i may have a stick welder, i certainly wouldn't have the skill needed for a very very long time.
Also I would have a number of other concerns like ease of access to the battery, which is removed via the right hand side under the side cover. The choke would also be an issue if i was to move it to the left side as i'm yet to convert it to using a handlebar item like on more modern bikes, although I guess it is totally achievable. However It also increases the cost & complexity of the whole thing by another order of magnitude if i go down that avenue too, another reason I've not ventured down that path. Though i don't have any plans to go down that road, at least not yet.
