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GS1000 Clutch advice

  • Thread starter Thread starter BlackStar
  • Start date Start date
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BlackStar

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I'm getting my '78 Gs1000 engine back together. All parts are back home now(valve job, 1085 kit, trued, indexed, welded crank).

My uncle rode this thing pretty hard back in the day. The clutch basket and hub are pretty notched up from holeshots (I assume). I'm thinking, while I'm in here......

What are my options here?

OEM ?

I don't plan on holeshots, or riding the bike too awful hard.

Are there any resonably priced aftermarket parts out there? I don't think I need full race.
 
clutch

clutch

What about a standard clutch hub thats had the heavy duty springs/rivets installed? Mine has lasted and its the same tune. Just rebuild another one. Then use 3 H/D springs one the plates to stop some strain on the wrist. Here is a pic of a tool i made to hold the clutch to tighten the nut. Its long enough and "deep" enough to use the footpeg as a stop.

GS100014-01-2007002.jpg
 
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I'd try the stock clutch with new OEM springs, assuming the plates still measure within specification. If it slips like this, install two HD springs at a time until the slipage goes away.
 
I have a beefy 1100 basket and inner assembly in my street 1000 2V, it requires a engine case spacer. you get a taller clutch stack, more discs, better spring length, and a stronger basket backing plate/ring gear.

I also like ebc clutch springs they are very inexpensive I change them often . if you sit at red lights with the clutch held in... idling in gear... it wears the clutch springs out quickly
 
Here is my $.02

First since you have gone to the expense of trueing & welding your GS1000 crank that suggests the bike is now more than capable of running hard or drag racing. If you plan to do holeshots or smokey burnouts the replacement stock clutch hub will always be the achiles heel of your current set up.

On the hand if you did all these modifications with the goal of merely obtaining arm straightening torque, than the stock clutch hub with the prior suggestions will work adequately. I have been running a Wiseco 1085 kit with numerous performance upgrades on mine for over two decades ago and the stock clutch hub works even with a couple of drag strip passes thrown in.

Vance & Hines & APE Engineering offer (or did offer) race proven welded GS1000 clutch hubs. As I recall this was a exchange program were you sent yours clutch hub in & they welded the rivets on the back & subsequently returned it. Sounds like yours is toast though.

PS: The modification wasn't cheap.
 
I have the same set up as you. However, I changed my clutch 20 years earlier to eliminate the rattle. At that time, it was a core exchange.
I'd go for the aftermarket basket with standard plates. The 1085 kit does not add that much unless you go with carbs and a header, even then it's still not much until you get cams, etc
 
My vote would be for the APE setup looks great. This has always been a problem with the clutches springs beak and rivets come loose can make an awful racket. Has probably caused many to dissasemble motors looking for cause.Good luck with the build...
 
Vance and Hines installed heavier damper springs and welded my clutch. $250, 8 years ago.
After 8 years and 30,000+ miles, works great and no more clutch rattle.
 
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