GS1000 clutch hub rebuild

[trippivot]

another thought

another thought

the bearings in the cases that hold the transmission input and output shafts are another source for engine noise / wobble.
they are hi enough not to be bathed in oil all the time. they do rust with condensation and other acids that dwell inside engines. the rust causes spalding and leads up to bad bearing surfaces.

and the case of the clutch basket out of balance. it is on a steel plug and needle bearing tightly squished in a helical gear.

trans shaft spacer and needle bearing would have to have excessive clearances to allow the space for noise and wobble a lot like the loose main nut .theory and findings also the mass of the basket is so much less than the crank/flywheel weight.

now if the input trans shaft bearing is going bad the space for an engine wobble would come from there. shaking the complete clutch/trans input shaft in the bearings and hammering on the crank gear.

getting the carbs set right will get most people's idling clutch noise quieter.
after that you weld up the backing plate. after that the engine comes out and apart.

me I use a 1100 clutch and engine case spacer. billet basket modified inner hub. still use the side gear and 1000 ratio better trans shaft bearings are a must!! and sadly forgotten/neglected stock is not good enough.

MTC is the place.

 

[first timer]

the bearings in the cases that hold the transmission input and output shafts are another source for engine noise / wobble.
they are hi enough not to be bathed in oil all the time. they do rust with condensation and other acids that dwell inside engines. the rust causes spalding and leads up to bad bearing surfaces.

and the case of the clutch basket out of balance. it is on a steel plug and needle bearing tightly squished in a helical gear.

trans shaft spacer and needle bearing would have to have excessive clearances to allow the space for noise and wobble a lot like the loose main nut .theory and findings also the mass of the basket is so much less than the crank/flywheel weight.

now if the input trans shaft bearing is going bad the space for an engine wobble would come from there. shaking the complete clutch/trans input shaft in the bearings and hammering on the crank gear.

getting the carbs set right will get most people's idling clutch noise quieter.
after that you weld up the backing plate. after that the engine comes out and apart.

me I use a 1100 clutch and engine case spacer. billet basket modified inner hub. still use the side gear and 1000 ratio better trans shaft bearings are a must!! and sadly forgotten/neglected stock is not good enough.

MTC is the place.

can you point me in the direction for some good trans bearings, since i have mine out right now and under cut might as well give her some new bearings too.

 

[Guest]

can you point me in the direction for some good trans bearings, since i have mine out right now and under cut might as well give her some new bearings too.

Mo money, mo money, mo money..... :lol:

 

[first timer]

Always!!!!!!!!

 

[doctorgonzo]

Mo money, mo money, mo money..... :lol:

No doubt.... I'm playing that game too. (Old story, but since I haven't been on it a while) in the process of putting an insert into a header bolt hole drilled through into an oil passage, so much for that head. I drove it with the oil leak for the rest of the season and now I'm tearing it down, so into the trap of "Well, the head is off and torn down, might as well replace the springs and seats and any valves close to being out of spec", "hell the head is off, might as well put rings in it", "hell the pistons are out, might as well hone the cylinders", "hell most of the engine is gonna be off the bike, might as well paint the frame".. it never ends!

 

[blowerbike]

to many chef's in the kitchen on this thread...
look for used..
why wouldnt a person buy a used billet if the price was right?
understand...a billet basket stops most of the side load.
a billet basket comes with a HD kit already installed if you find someone that has removed there's for whatever reason/slider/straight cut ect....
(((not just a billet basket))) a billet assy. for a 8v. 1000.
why wouldnt a person buy a used a HD basket if the price was right?
if a wobble comes from a basket...that means the basket wasnt clamped correctly or there was bad parts used on the rebuild.
a bone stock 1000 can sling a basket out through the top or bottem of the cases.
a HD basket is good insurance...period.
and the parts to rebuild a basket isnt 100.00 anymore...nope.
so the labor isnt 200.00
300.00 is fair to have yours rebuilt total cost.
but...
i like used stuff.
look around and find a deal.
it is winter, no hurry

 

[Guest]

Mine is an Ebay special.

 

[rapidray]

Bill, EVERYTHING of yours is an ebay SPECIAL!! HEHEHEHEHEHEHE Ray.

 

[salty_monk]

Nah, his new windshield isn't...

 

[Guest]

Mine is an Ebay special.

Bill, EVERYTHING of yours is an ebay SPECIAL!! HEHEHEHEHEHEHE Ray.

Mine, too! I bought my head, jugs, pistons, and clutch all from the same guy! Here's the clutch:

 

[Guest]

We can be the Ebay brothers at all the rallys this year.
We don't pay full price for nothing!

 

[salty_monk]

Why not... it just takes time & patience. I could do with one for the skunk.

 

[fast pom]

Get an after market centre nut from one of the performance outlets . The threads on the Suzuki one are not up to the job and no matter how hard you try after time come loose.

 

[80GS1000]

Mine, too! I bought my head, jugs, pistons, and clutch all from the same guy! Here's the clutch:

Got my clutch basket back from GRC the other day with the HD kit installed. I'd post pics but it looks identical to Bruce's.

Newb clutch rebuild questions following....

Upon reinstallation, I'm having a bit of trouble getting the clutch to engage properly. I used the pics and descriptions in the Haynes, Clymer and factory Suzuki service manuals to put everything back together carefully and to spec.

The teeth of the clutch release rack sticking out of the pressure plate (center of the pressure plate in Bruce's last pic) are engaged with the pinion gear on the clutch cover. There's a bit of slack in the clutch release rack too, is this normal?

When when you bolt on the cover and pull in the clutch lever, it doesn't feel like the clutch is operating. The only resistance at the clutch lever comes from the spring on the clutch cable. What am I doing wrong?

 

[80GS1000]

Posting this so someone else won't make the same dumb mistake as me. :lol:

After reinstalling the clutch cover, ya gotta turn the pinion gear on the top of the clutch cover all the way to the right (clockwise) before reattaching the clutch cable to get the clutch to disengage when you pull in the clutch lever. Mine was turned all the way to the left.