gs1000 coil question

[Anonymous]

i recently bought a gs 1000 motor and am havning troubble gettin the number one cyl to fire and the #4 fires weak it has a poor connection and overall the electrical system is pretty hackjob, i need to redo the whole thing, i'm already looking at a electrolux stator and r/r does the type of coil i replace it with matter? does it have to be a dual output coil? or can i run 4 singles? does the coil fire to both cyls at the same time? i havent figured out this electrical system yet.

any help would be greatly appreciated
thanks,
-Erik

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

The coil fires 1&4 aat the same time, 2&3 at the same time You need a dual coil I'm assuming you have electronic ign so you would need 3 ohm coils, 5 ohms if you have points. The most popular replacement is the dyna coils. IF you want used Late model 3 ohm coils Bandit/GSX coils will work Check here if you need wiring info
http://www.oldskoolsuzuki.info/index.htm?fastcat/library/library.shtml~main

 

[Anonymous]

thank you sir you awnsered all of my current questions, except for how do i figure out what ign system i have...

everything i'v found out so far the motor is a 1980 chain drive not shaftie

thanks a mil.
-Erik

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

1980 is electronic ign

 

[Anonymous]

thank you sir

 

[Anonymous]

well i took off what i thought was the timing cover and saw the ignition assembly my dad was here and said that it was points cause he had bike back in the day i dunno if he is right i dunno shit about this old stuff, thre is a single lobe in the middle that is attached to the crank and spins there are 2 rockers one on each side and there are 2 brushes one per rocker and 2 sets of contacts there is a capacitor on the bottom for each rocker and thats all i know.

lemme know...... what i'm in for
-Erik

 

[saaz]

You have the points setup. You must have the last of the old style before they changed to electronic ignition. You must have slide cabs and not CV carbs? Check the condition of the points, points gap and timing. While more basic than electronic ignitions, points always work and are easy to diagnose and fix.

I have a 78 GS1000. Make sure the plug wire and cap is ok on the cylinder not firing. I just went through a similar problem with the plug cap failing when it warmed up. The coils can be replaced with bandit and GSX-R coils, twin fire ones. If you get some, try and get ones with the plug wires already long enough to reach, saves playing around.

 

[Anonymous]

well i went through and redid all the contacts on the coils and now they fire alot better more spark ... more than none lol it runs it's ass off now but i still think it aint right i prolly need to clean the carbs again cause it had old gas in it w/o sta-bil

 

[Anonymous]

well lately it's condition has changed from good to not running lol

one coil blew it's guts all over my leg so i ordered up them dyna coils and they got here after the backorder ordeal and i got them hooked up but i cant get any voltage to the 2-4 breaker i think it has a fried wire i replaced the points and caps and am havning troubble figureing out wth the manual says to do on setting the gap on the breakers and all that jass anyone have a good how to on seting up points from square one?

lemme know, i'm prolly gonna have carb issues after this tho lol i rebuilt them and rejetter it back to stock but i kept all the old jets just incase they need to be cleaned real bad

on the plus side the carbs hardly leak anymore lol

-Erik

 

[earlfor]

It sounds like you need to set your points and check timing.

Here's the proceedure. The points are located under
the round cover on the right end of the crankcase/crankshaft.

The round 6" plate that both sets of points are mounted on (breaker
plate) is held in place by three screws located at 12, 4 and 8 oclock.
Loosen the 3 screws on the breaker plate. Note that the screw at 12
oclock is in a slot. Rotate the breaker plate until the 12 oclock screw
is centered in the slot. Tighten the three screws.

We will replace the left side set of points first (located at 9 oclock
position) These are the points for cylinders 1 and 4.

Take a 19 mm wrench and rotate crankshaft until points are at widest
gap. Unscrew hold down screw on pointset and remove points. Note the
white wire that goes to the pointset and the placement of the insulator.
The insulator must be correct or the points will be grounded out and
will not work. Put the new points onto the breaker plate, set the gap to
14 thousandths, and lightly tighten the hold down screw. Install white wire.
Rotate crankshaft once again with 19mm wrench until points are at widest
gap. Check that widest gap remains at 14 thousandths. Adjust and
retighten holddown screw if needed.

Rotate crankshaft until rightside points are at widest gap (for
cylinders 2 and 3) Remove old points and install new points and set gap
at 14 thousandths. Note insulators on black wire installation. Rotate
crankshaft with 19 mm wrench again stopping at widest gap. Recheck gap
as you did with the left pointset. Adjust and retighten hold down screw
on points if needed.

THE ABOVE COVERS SETTING THE POINTS GAPS


To replace the condensers, all you need to do is loosen the terminal
nuts on the end of the pointsets that hold the black and white condenser
leads, then remove the hold down screw on the condenser set, remove the
condensers and install the new onces, connecting the new wires as the
old ones were connected.

Next is the timing:

Timing for cylinders 1 and 4 (the left set of points)....................
With 19 mm wrench, rotate crankshaft while looking through the timing
window and align the mark that looks like F1| with the timing mark on
the engine case.
(the line following F1 is the mark (|) On some model bikes, the timing
mark will look like |F1 and on others, it will look like F1|. In either
case align to the mark.

note: some bikes will have a stationary timing mark on the engine case
and some will have a mark on a stationary timing plate that can be seen
through the timing window. All of the marks that look like |F1 or |F4,
|F2 or |F3 will be found on the mechanical advance arms which are seen
through the timing window in the timing plate. |F1 is the static timing
mark for cylinders 1-4. |F2 is the static timing mark for cylinders
2-3. |F4 is the dynamic timing mark for cylinders 1-4 and |F3 is the
dynamic timing mark for cylinders 2-3. Dynamic timing must be done with
a strobe timing light. Static timing is done with a continuity light.
(nothing more than a 12v bulb in socket with two wires)

Connect a continuity lights wire lead/clip to the white wire clip on the
left pointset. Clamp continuity light probe tip to ground on the bike or
battery negative terminal.

Turn ignition switch to on (do not attempt to start bike, just switch
ignition to on)

The continuity light should be on because you have one of its leads
connected to the black or white wire on the pointset (this is a positive
wire) and the other wire of the continuity light is connected to battery
neg. When the points close and make contact, the circuit will be
grounded out and the light will go off. If the light will not go off,
then the only possibility is that the points are not closing.

Loosen the three screws on the breaker plate located at 12, 4 and 8
oclock. Rotate breaker plate until continuity light just flickers out.
Retighten the 12, 4, and 8 oclock screws on the breaker plate.

Unclip continuity lead from left pointset.



For the Right pointset
Rotate crankshaft with wrench until you see the timing mark F2| become
aligned with the stationary timing mark on the engine case.
Connect continuity light lead to black wire on right pointset.
The ignition should be switched on and the continuity light should be on.

The right pointset is mounted to a breaker half plate.
You will see that you can loosen the mounting screws on this breaker
half plate and this will allow you to move the right pointset. This will
adjust the timing without changing the points gap. When you rotated the
complete breaker plate for the left pointset to get the continuity light
to flicker out, thats what you did. You adjusted the timing on cylinders
1 and 4 without changing the gap on their pointset.
Unfortunately, the whole breaker plate being rotated moves BOTH sets of
points, so that is why you must set the left side first and that is why
the right side is mounted on its own independent half breaker plate.
SOoooooo.... Smile Loosen the breaker half plate on the right side and
rotate as needed to cause the continuity light to just flicker out.
Tighten the half plate back down when satisfied with the adjustment. Smile

Remove continuity light and HOPEFULLY, start bike.

Earl

 

[Anonymous]

awsome how to man that should be a how to actually

very helpful, i tried to post tuesday when i read it first but i was studying it so hard i forgot lol now if ya saw my post on the screwdriver you would know why i'm not in the hospital right now for it running it's ass off...................... into a wall lol

time will tell i'll keep ya posted

 

[gremlin]

make shure when your checking for a foltage that the points are open. if the points are closed you will get a 0 volt reading. the coil fires when grounded. when you read the 12volts it's prefire condition. any voltage under 12 means you have a bad coil or bad wire going to the coil.