GS1000 Frame Bracing Templates?

[philosopheriam]

Folks,

I'm interested in adding some bracing to my stock 1978 GS1000E frame before it goes to the powdercoater.

Does anyone know of some templates/engineering drawings for bracing on the aforementioned frame?

Specifically, I'm interested in items "B" and "C" (reference attached photo)

Thanks!

 

[posplayr]

Folks,

I'm interested in adding some bracing to my stock 1978 GS1000E frame before it goes to the powdercoater.

Does anyone know of some templates/engineering drawings for bracing on the aforementioned frame?

Specifically, I'm interested in items "B" and "C" (reference attached photo)

Thanks!

I have never seen anybody post templates, but there are plenty of pictures of frame bracing (do a search); use my name as a parameter, I know I started and/or added a lot to a thread while investigating this. A member named Tone is an expert, but have not seen him post lately.
. Some better than others. You should decide what bracing you want to do first, then the templates will be easy.

This one for example. Bracing will depend on upon what you want to do. For example for the street, stiffening the box around the swing arm bolt and the "C" area are the primary things to do. A,B,F less so.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=142286&highlight=bracing

 

[philosopheriam]

I was curious about templates because item "C", if made too large or welded in the incorrect location, could make removing/installing the engine quite difficult.

"D" would prevent use of the stock airbox - I'm not sure I care about that, but I have to look closer to see if it would interfere with the installation of the battery box.

"E" also looks like a good idea, but once again, not sure if it would interfere with anything.

 

[posplayr]

I was curious about templates because item "C", if made too large or welded in the incorrect location, could make removing/installing the engine quite difficult.

"D" would prevent use of the stock airbox - I'm not sure I care about that, but I have to look closer to see if it would interfere with the installation of the battery box.

"E" also looks like a good idea, but once again, not sure if it would interfere with anything.

Make card board cutouts and fit check all. Would you really trust anything else?

 

[philosopheriam]

Make card board cutouts and fit check all. Would you really trust anything else?

Understood - to perform the work I will be taking the frame to a friend of a friend who owns a hot rod shop and specializes in tube fabrication.

If you were to pick only TWO of these modifications, which ones would you choose.

I was thinking C and E would be the best - your thoughts?

 

[Agemax]

IMO B + E is all you would need for road use. the rest will not be necessary unless you are planning on serious racing or drag racing

 

[philosopheriam]

IMO B + E is all you would need for road use. the rest will not be necessary unless you are planning on serious racing or drag racing

Hmm... if I was to do only ONE I thought C would be the most important, as it is a major area of flex for the frame.

 

[Agemax]

Hmm... if I was to do only ONE I thought C would be the most important, as it is a major area of flex for the frame.

it doesn't flex at that point as much as you think, any flex there will not affect any handling at all, its up front at the steering head and down by the swingarm pivot that is most noticeable.
Saying that, unless you are Marquez or Rossi, i doubt you will notice any significant flex in the frame anyway, braced or not.

 

[posplayr]

Hmm... if I was to do only ONE I thought C would be the most important, as it is a major area of flex for the frame.

Did you read what Tone posted? I can't add anything else to that true lay expert advice.

 

[posplayr]

it doesn't flex at that point as much as you think, any flex there will not affect any handling at all, its up front at the steering head and down by the swingarm pivot that is most noticeable.
Saying that, unless you are Marquez or Rossi, i doubt you will notice any significant flex in the frame anyway, braced or not.

The distance between the center where C is and the headstock and swing arm that magnifies and deflection you see at C.

 

[Fjbj40]

I did C, D and E. Forget about the stock air box if you you do D. Fitting the engine is a no issue with C. All I know is this turned my 1000 into the best handling one out of 3 so far. Running radials probably more than the frame work. BUT this thing has no tendency to wallow when pushed hard like the other ones did, even after they had all new bearings in the steering and swingarms.

 

[philosopheriam]

I did C, D and E. Forget about the stock air box if you you do D. Fitting the engine is a no issue with C. All I know is this turned my 1000 into the best handling one out of 3 so far. Running radials probably more than the frame work. BUT this thing has no tendency to wallow when pushed hard like the other ones did, even after they had all new bearings in the steering and swingarms.

Fjb,

Did you run into *any* issues with tank fitment with respect to brace "C" - I don't have my tank nearby as it is currently at the painter.

Also, did you run into issues with master cylinder clearance with brace "E"

What materials did you use, as well? You wouldn't happen to have any measurements for placement, would you

Thanks for letting me pick your brain

 

[posplayr]

I did C, D and E. Forget about the stock air box if you you do D. Fitting the engine is a no issue with C. All I know is this turned my 1000 into the best handling one out of 3 so far. Running radials probably more than the frame work. BUT this thing has no tendency to wallow when pushed hard like the other ones did, even after they had all new bearings in the steering and swingarms.

If I had an extra $1K, that is what I would do. Strip the frame, get it braced and then powdercoated. I don't have bracing on my GS with 18" radials, GSXR 41mm RSU forks/brace and a bandit swing arm and it is pretty stable but in hard cornering at say 80-90 mph it gets a little unsettling but nothing dramatic. In a straight line no issues.

 

[philosopheriam]

posplayr,

I've pretty much settled on "C" - my frame has to go to the welder anyway to have the welds re-done on the rear shock mount studs.

So, while the frame is there, I will have "C" done.

 

[Fjbj40]

Here is my build, you will see fuel tank issue, very minor. I use a gsxr750 rearset/ master cylinder, so I also de-tabbed most of the frame.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=203204

Daryl

 

[Fjbj40]

If I had an extra $1K, that is what I would do. Strip the frame, get it braced and then powdercoated. I don't have bracing on my GS with 18" radials, GSXR 41mm RSU forks/brace and a bandit swing arm and it is pretty stable but in hard cornering at say 80-90 mph it gets a little unsettling but nothing dramatic. In a straight line no issues.

The frame bracing cost me about $200.00. I cut and fit and tack welded the tubing. Took it to a tig welder for finishing and I then painted it with International Perfection poly urethane paint along with the wheels at the same time. If I choose to powder coat then it would have been $500.00 more. I have a down draft paint booth where I teach so painting is the most intelligent option.

Daryl

 

[posplayr]

The frame bracing cost me about $200.00. I cut and fit and tack welded the tubing. Took it to a tig welder for finishing and I then painted it with International Perfection poly urethane paint along with the wheels at the same time. If I choose to powder coat then it would have been $500.00 more. I have a down draft paint booth where I teach so painting is the most intelligent option.

Daryl

Looks good.

 

[philosopheriam]

The frame bracing cost me about $200.00. I cut and fit and tack welded the tubing. Took it to a tig welder for finishing and I then painted it with International Perfection poly urethane paint along with the wheels at the same time. If I choose to powder coat then it would have been $500.00 more. I have a down draft paint booth where I teach so painting is the most intelligent option.

Daryl

Was test fitting of your tank required when you did "c" ?

Yes, I know, I ask a lot of questions....

 

[Fjbj40]

Was test fitting of your tank required when you did "c" ?

Yes, I know, I ask a lot of questions....

Only after I had it welded in, then a few light blows with a hammer and it fit just perfectly

There is a picture in my build that shows this minor clearance.

 

[philosopheriam]

Only after I had it welded in, then a few light blows with a hammer and it fit just perfectly

There is a picture in my build that shows this minor clearance.

Hmm... that's close - has anyone considered using a piece of flat plate instead. This would eliminate any clearance issues.