• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

GS1000 head studs

  • Thread starter Thread starter rudy
  • Start date Start date
R

rudy

Guest
I'm just putting the 1000 back together with new studs. Just wondering what's the best way to go about doing it and tightening them down. Do I have to put some kind of threadlock on for in the cases? A certain torque that I have to take them to? What kind of tool do I use? I used a pipe wrench to get them out as I couldn't find a stud extractor tool.
 
Best to clean the threads on the cases first and then apply a drop of thin oil to the studs. Put 2 nuts on the top of the studs and tighten together so you've effectively got a lock nut and then just wind in with a socket. Tighten until the threads are all down in to the cases - no need to go tighter than this. No need for any thread locker.

You'll need a torque wrench when you've popped the head on and tighten the head nuts. They need to be tightened to 27lb-ft and the bolts on the outsides to 6.5 - 10lb-ft. Don't foget to use a light oil (3 in 1 is great) to get a good lube so you obtain accurate torque readings.
 
hampshirehog said:
Best to clean the threads on the cases first and then apply a drop of thin oil to the studs. Put 2 nuts on the top of the studs and tighten together so you've effectively got a lock nut and then just wind in with a socket. Tighten until the threads are all down in to the cases - no need to go tighter than this. No need for any thread locker.

You'll need a torque wrench when you've popped the head on and tighten the head nuts. They need to be tightened to 27lb-ft and the bolts on the outsides to 6.5 - 10lb-ft. Don't foget to use a light oil (3 in 1 is great) to get a good lube so you obtain accurate torque readings.
Click to expand...
i was always brought up to believe that lubricating studs or nuts that have to be torqued should be done dry as obviously lubrication would mean the threads have less friction which would make the torque wrench setting innacurate as you would have to tighten the bolt or nut tighter than the actual reading on the torque wrench. just my opinion.
 
I've also heard not to use oil on the bolts/nuts/studs that are going to be tightened with a torque wrench. The lubrication throws off the reading on the wrench. Best is to use a thread chaser - not a tap - to clean out the threads in the case, then be sure the top threads are clean when you put the nuts on and torque to spec. If there is dirt or grime on the threads you will also throw off the torque reading.
 
You're quite right to question whether the threads should be dry when using a torque wrench.

The old boy who first taught me on the spanners explained to me that torque settings should be accompanied with a statement saying if the threads should be dry or, if lubed, the viscosity of the lubricant. However, I can't remember when I've seen this on a torque chart. (The old guy who taught me was an ex RAF engine fitter so this may still be the case in the aircraft industry where settings are more critical?)

And of course the whole thing then gets some distortion when using Loktite; it will act as a lubricant in itself.

I wouldn't use engine oil or, even worse, Molyslip where there could be serious distortions of torque readings but I've always found 3-in-One works as a thread cleaner (clean threads are a must) and makes threads 'feel' like new.
 
Thanks guys. Hope to get around to this tonight. I hope threads will be clean as the studs are new. :-k Will put a wee squirt o' fluid film on there. Not really a lube as much as a penetrant, but gives a little slide to the threads.

Just one more question. I bought new dome nuts for the outside studs. Is there any reason why not to use the old ones for the next studs in? They're still decent, but some surface rust. Just noticed all the other nuts are open, and rusted pretty bad. Dome nut might help with that a little better, and since I got them already, might as well use them. Just wondering if there was any reason why I shouldn't.
 
The only reason I can see that you couldn't re-use those dome nuts is if they don't have sufficient thread before torquing up. From memory I think there's plenty but worth checking. As all the head nuts should be torqued the same they are plenty strong enough.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top