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GS1000 hydraulic clutch

more progress today, the slave i was interested in on ebay spookily went up in price when the seller realised i was interested in it. i did ask him quite a few questions about size, width,height,flange diameter etc.....
so i looked around a bit more and found another from a 400 Gas Gas. this guy was only 10 miles up the road from me. the 400 slave is actually a smaller unit with a larger piston diameter, 29mm. it has a 4mm stroke which could be increased to 5mm with a bit of machining.(if needed).it also has 3 mounting holes compared to 2 on the other one.
lighter is for size comparison...

100_1531_zps6cc05f10.jpg


knocked up a spacer so it sits central in the crankcase hole and it looks pretty good. i will need to shave a bit off the crankcase casting to get it to sit vertical and the top mount hole will need to be machined down slightly to miss the chain and the hole counterbored for an allen bolt to fit in flush.
i need to make an adaptor plate to mount it now, using the 2 bolt holes that secured the rubber mainshaft end plug locking tab thingy.

without chain.....

100_1532_zpsf78deac9.jpg


and with...
100_1534_zps7b858df0.jpg
 
the only bit that needs machining is on the left of the slave,where the mount hole is.
there is an extrusion on the crankcase that prevents the slave from rotating anti clockwise as far as it needs to go. it is not a lot and can be done with a dremmel with the motor in place.
 
You can move the holes about on the slave, just got your volumes to tune and you're away.
 
tatu said:
You can move the holes about on the slave, just got your volumes to tune and you're away.
Click to expand...

not sure i am with you on the holes....:confused:

i plan to use copper brake pipe from the slave up to a joint to a s/s braided hose under tank. that way i can use different diameter I/D copper pipe to get the pressure and the feel right on the lever
 
I would use Cunifer rather than copper, even steel. Copper fatigues really quickly with vibration & you're going to have plenty in that location! :)
 
salty_monk said:
I would use Cunifer rather than copper, even steel. Copper fatigues really quickly with vibration & you're going to have plenty in that location! :)
Click to expand...

yeah good idea, although i have no idea what Cunifer is!!!
i will mock up the pipes with copper and once i get the I/D right then i can get a steel pipe made up
 
salty_monk said:
Copper Nickel Iron Alloy. Don't rust, easy to bend & don't fatigue like copper. You do need to support it fairly well, not as rigid as steel....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cupro-Nickel-Kunifer-3-16-x-25ft-Brake-Pipe-BS-EN12449-/120488471584

Google it. Highly recommended in the classic car scene both in the UK & the US. Sometimes also spelt with a K. Kunifer.
Click to expand...

cool, yeah i see it now. Kunifer seems the preferred spelling over here.
just as cheap as copper so i will give that a try.
i will need a banjo fitting as the slave has no bleed nipple so i will have to use a single banjo bolt with built in bleed nipple. loads of them to choose from :)
 
Agemax said:
not sure i am with you on the holes....:confused:
Click to expand...

You have to anchor the slave to the casing and you have two holes that are already there, they don't already line up so you'll have to move them, either build up the metal or cleverly machine the slave.
 
tatu said:
You have to anchor the slave to the casing and you have two holes that are already there, they don't already line up so you'll have to move them, either build up the metal or cleverly machine the slave.
Click to expand...

yeah i know that, i said before i have to make a plate to mount it.
if you look at the red arrow in this pic, that is the extrusion that needs to be removed, enough to rotate the slave anticlockwise so that the bottom mount hole lines up with the hole in the crankcase, marked with a blue arrow. that gives me 1 secure anchor. then make a plate to line up with the other 2 mount holes on the slave, and secure the plate to the 2 holes that originally secured the blanking plug securing tab.
hydclutch_zps854ac4ee.jpg


next problem is the bolt hole marked with the blue arrow is damaged. it is an original mount hole used for the sprocket cover. i am hoping there is enough material in the crankcase so that i can drill and tap that hole deeper to use for the bottom bolt.

i think all that makes sense!!! :confused:
 
Yes it does.
Just to ask, how much do you think you could mill off the face with the number to make it slimmer to fit your plate? Because you could counter sink all the mount holes and gain a bit there to give you more clearance.
 
tatu said:
Yes it does.
Just to ask, how much do you think you could mill off the face with the number to make it slimmer to fit your plate? Because you could counter sink all the mount holes and gain a bit there to give you more clearance.
Click to expand...

with the slave rotated, i will mill down the top slave mount hole and counterbore it so a 6mm allen bolt will fit in flush.
the plate i plan to fit between the slave and the crankcase. 5mm thick so it is enough to tap 6mm holes. the 2 holes that secure it to the crankcase will be countersunk.
this is roughly what the plate will look like.
slavemount_zps9459a392.jpg


do you think that will work?
 
Agemax said:
with the slave rotated, i will mill down the top slave mount hole and counterbore it so a 6mm allen bolt will fit in flush.
the plate i plan to fit between the slave and the crankcase. 5mm thick so it is enough to tap 6mm holes. the 2 holes that secure it to the crankcase will be countersunk.
this is roughly what the plate will look like.
slavemount_zps9459a392.jpg


do you think that will work?
Click to expand...

Looks very splendid! I like it. How will you seal it to stop the oil leaking on the shaft end?
 
there will be a nylon spacer that fits in the transmission hole, with an o ring. the slave already has an o ring. all will be clamped up tight once it is all bolted in
 
Last edited:
can anyone help me out with the problem i have with the broken mount hole shown in the picture above.(blue arrow post#51).
is the crankcase thick enough to drill and tap deeper or even drill right through and tap? i am not sure if there is anything directly behind it without splitting the cases.

cheers.
 
Agemax said:
can anyone help me out with the problem i have with the broken mount hole shown in the picture above.(blue arrow post#51).
is the crankcase thick enough to drill and tap deeper or even drill right through and tap? i am not sure if there is anything directly behind it without splitting the cases.

cheers.
Click to expand...

I've got a scrap bottom case and I'll have a look tomorrow.
 
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