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GS1000l smoking after rebuild!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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I just finished a top end rebuild of my motor because it had low compression in a couple of cylinders. I checked everything to see if it was within spec. If it wasn't, it was replaced. Cylinders were rehoned and new rings, valve seals ect. When i start it up for the first time everyday, or after its been sitting for a couple of hours, it smokes. IT smokes a lot, but once it warms up, it stops, at least from what i can tell. It runs fine though. Any ideas?
Also, i did a carb rebuild and a rejet, and it seems that its running a little rich. Is there a way i can lean the fuel mixture without rejetting it again.
thanks
tom
 
White or black smoke? How long does it take for the smoke to go away?

To lean it out, you'll have to do some jetting work. Do you know where it is lean (i.e. the pilot, needle or main circuits)?
 
Have you installed the oil control rings correctly? It's crucial that the wavy ring ends butt together but don't overlap.
 
i'm pretty sure that the oil rings are installed correctly. It is a bluish white smoke, burning oil smoke. It takes about a minute to 2 minutes to lessen significantly, about 5 to completely go away. The quicker i start riding the faster it goes away.
I went up to a 122.5 mmain jet. I have a V&H 4 into 1 pipe and a k&N filter. I think i might have to drop the main jet size down a little.
thanks for the replies
tom
 
Like everyone has said. Also, warm it up and do a couple of 1/4 mile runs to make sure the rings are bedded in. As it is so newly done, have a little mercy but give it a good wakeup. Had a similar problem with a Bmw car I re rung lately and as a last resort I ran it HARD, end of problem.
 
i measured the bore before and after honing and they were within spec. A couple of people told me that the rings just need to be seated, but its a lot of smoke.
thanks
tom
 
Did you replace the valve guide seals? if you did, did you make sure you seated them properly.
122.5 main jet may be to high, as standard is 115.
If it was smoking badly before, there maybe lots of unburnt oil in the exhaust system.
Yes, oil rings(scraper) have to be butted together.
Have you done a compression test (hot)
It maybe running rich, did you replace rings with Suzuki ones and not pattern ones?
Did you put the letters on the rings facing UP.
Did you stagger the rings in the cylinders.
You dont have to reply to all these questions, just make sure you did all this.

I had a simular problem with my 1000, I rebuilt the engine, had the cylinders honed and I DID NOT REPLACE THE RINGS, smoked it;s a$$ off.
I replaced the rings and now it's fine, it smokes a little but not much.
I only have 16K on it.
Good luck with everything, and recheck what you think is wrong.
 
i haven't done a compression test since the rebuild, i'll have to do that.
I did install new suzuki rings with the letters up. I remember doing that. And i did stager them too(if you mean 180* off eachother).
I'll do the compression test tomorrow and get back to you.
thanks
tom
 
smoke

smoke

STOP go back and retorque the head if you didn't use a OEM head gasket you may be sucking oil from the cam chain area, some of the after market composite gaskets will lose torque with out any engine running, and may have to retore then twice as often as the OEM
 
i used a suzuki part. It was a metal headgasket, like a mls. I retorqued the head twice now, because thats what i thought it was also. What is the correct torque off hand. The clymers manual said 27ft. lbs.

thanks
tom
 
head

head

27 ft lbs. is correct, did you use the rubber seal around the cam chain opening?also on the head gasket the raised seals around the cylinder area on the head gasket, one side has the bead thicker than the other side, on most oem gaskets, the broadest bead side should face down if the gasket is not marked, also on the rings there is a top ring witch is shiny (chrome) its the top and the mark if correct should face up. the second ring is dull and should face so the the bevel face (tapper faces up),(widest at bottom) if you checked the rings in the bore after honing in the upper 3rd of the cylinder, where wear is the greatest, and they where just in side of spec you can expect to be past spec in short order do to seating and the hone wearing down, in short order, also do you have the crank case breather set up right, and last did you anneal the copper head washers, so that they will torque right and seal, and you did put a lite coat of oil on the studs before you put the nuts on so you get a nice even pull down on the head
 
I did use a new rubber seal between the head and the block. The head gasket had a marking "head" on it. So i put that side facing the head. The head gasket did not have any raised seals around the cylinders. I found that odd myself, because all the car headgaskets i have changed have a metal o-ring around the cylinder the seal it, this one didn't. I didn't think too much of it because this is the first bike i have ever worked on, so i figured thats how its suppose to be. I don't remember the measurements exactly, but they were not near the wear limit. I started my measurements right below the ring ridge and went down take measurements every half inch about. Perpendicular to eachother. I didn't aneal the copper washers, i didn't know i had to. I just used the old ones again. I did oil the studs though.

I did a compression check hot and cold
Hot:
1- 115
2- 90
3 - 60
4- 140

Cold:
1- 115
2- 60
3- 30
4- 120
Obviously, the numbers are low. I'm going to do another hot test after i ride it for a while. I took the hot numbers after i let it run for 5-10 minutes.
thanks for the help
tom
 
I hate to say this but did you make sure the head was not cracked or
(yikes) warped? Was the cylinder bank checked for straightness?
 
Eeeeeeeeeeeeer, sorry to tell you but if the valve shims are all correct, meaning that they are not too tight, further meaning that if too tight the valves are still open on compression stroke, your going to need a rebore.
that is the only thing I can think of, if anyone else has any ideas let him know.
How many miles have you got on this engine? maybe the honing out further made the cylinders further out on spec.
 
The motor has about 40,000 on it, the rebuild has about 150 miles on it.
Someone got $500 dollars i can borrow? haha
thanks for the help guys, looks like i'm tearing it apart again.
thanks
tom
 
Not to worry! I have stripped mine down 3 times since I rebuilt it, I can do it in my sleep now.
Go ahead and recheck the cylinders, I bet they are over the specified limit, I bet you 2 bucks!!!
If you are stripping it down, I have found a web site that charges $69 for a GS FULL gasket set, including valve stem oil seals and everything else needed.
Let us know what you find when you strip it down!
 
one more question, if my valve shims are to tight it would cause the loss of compression, but that wouldn't be the source of the oil thats burning, wuld it?
wheres that website for the gasket kit, cause i spent 200$ in gaskets alone last time.
thanks
tom
 
Shim too tight would cause loss of compression, 003-008 is the correct gap, if you cant get a 00.3 in there it's too tight and your valve is sticking open under compression.
NO! thats not the reason your oil is going missing, I place my best bet that it's honed out past the service limit.
The website on the back of the gasket set is www.athena.ad.com I bought it from ebay for $69 (I think) with shipping it was approx $79.
I have not tried that web site, but if it's not up, check out GS1000 under ebay.
 
well, i checked the valve clearance and only one was within spec. Everything else i couldn't get a .002 feeler guage in there. So i did a leakdown test and sure enough, it was leaking out of the exhaust and intake valves of the center two cylinders. The outer two didn't seem to leak. Now, i'm going to pull the cams off and do another leakdown test to make sure that the rings aren't excessively leaking. Now, how do mi determine the correct shim size. Is there a chart or something like that?
thanks
tom
 
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