GS1000S paint work started

[nvr2old]

I've got a few paint jobs to do this year and am watching with great interest as well. Especially interested in the progression of different colors.

I have a few question if you don't mind? (I scanned the thread but am still left with these questions)

What is that grease/wax remover? Have a particular brand?

Also what type of tape are you using "3M Fine Line" comes in diff sizes ? Is this something that would be standard at a paint shop?

Looks like you are taping over about a 400 wet sand?

You also mentioned "guide coat" earlier when premiering; I assume that is the darker grey primer fog to find low spots. What do you use more PPG dark primer or can you rattle can something since it is all getting sanded off anyway?

Doing black pin stripes, it would be very difficult to tape off both lines so I can see how the natural approach is to put down the black first and then cover that with the 1/4" inch 3M Fine Line. However, it would seem if there was an option that the darker colors would go on last. Are there any issues with painting white over the black in terms of coverage?

The wax and grease remover is another PPG product. Simply called Acrylic Wax and Grease Remover. One can will last a looonng time. Perfect for getting off any last oily residue left by your fingers even.

3M Fine Line comes in a lot of different widths 1/32"-1/2". It's nice to be able to buy just what you need. This plastic tape leaves perfectly clean, sharp edges and is very easy to manipulate around curves. Available at auto paint stores. All tape should be 3M w/o question. The best is hard to beat.

I final block sanded the primer with 320, sprayed the black, and then took the shine off the black with 600. Makes a nice smooth base to lay the tape over.

Guide coat can be anything on hand actually. Rattle can flat black works great.

No problem with the white covering the black. It's so much easier to do the stripes on this particular scheme this way. Can't do it this way all the time, but works well with this layout. I'm getting ready to go out and spray the white right now, (after adjusting the right side taped stripe around the gas filler a bit..ha) I'll try to post some more pics tonight. Blue tomorrow, clear coats by the weekend if all goes well.

 

[nvr2old]

Just got the white sprayed. Looks like it went back to primer.. Nice creamy white, sprayed really dry, just enough to cover. Also got the seat pan trim and the tail piece done, too. They just needed a dusting to make sure the color matches. The top of the tail piece is too nice to mess with. I'll let it set until tomorrow, then mask off the white pin stripes and add the blue.

 

[oshanac]

Nvr2old-THANK YOU SO MUCH for taking the time to take detailed pictures and notes on your project. I'll be painting my bike this fall and this helps A LOT!!!

 

[nvr2old]

Nvr2old-THANK YOU SO MUCH for taking the time to take detailed pictures and notes on your project. I'll be painting my bike this fall and this helps A LOT!!!

You're very welcome. I've been doing this for 30 years, and have known and worked with some of the best custom painters in the world that've helped me learn these techniques, so I like to pay that back whenever I can.

 

[nvr2old]

 

[nvr2old]

 

[nvr2old]

 

[nvr2old]

The GS1000S striping is finally done...whew. It's always exciting and a little nerve wracking, but it all came out real nice. Clear's next after the decals.

 

[posplayr]

Looking real good, can't wait for the clear. But I gotta ask:

A.) how long between coats do you wait before doing the next taping session?

B.) How careful do you have to be ?

C.) Are you burnishing the tape edges or just firm finger tip pressure?

D.) how long did you wait before the decal (maybe it is just laying there waiting for first clear coat)

TIA

Pos

 

[nvr2old]

Looking real good, can't wait for the clear. But I gotta ask:

A.) how long between coats do you wait before doing the next taping session?

B.) How careful do you have to be ?

C.) Are you burnishing the tape edges or just firm finger tip pressure?

D.) how long did you wait before the decal (maybe it is just laying there waiting for first clear coat)

TIA

Pos

A) I waited overnight inbetween coats of color. This stuff dries pretty quickly, and you're only spraying a couple of light coats just to get the color. You want as little buildup as possible. That way the tape pulls off cleanly. It also makes it much easier to bury the stripes in clear.

B) You still have to be as careful as you possibly can be. It's dry, but it's still really fresh and delicate. Your hands need to be spotless and dry at all times.

C) The Fine Line tape sticks really well. I lay it all down and then go back over it with my finger tip wrapped tightly in a clean shop rag and apply good pressure to it. You won't hurt the paint. A tool of any kind would be too harsh, though.

D) I'll put the decals on tomorrow, and then start the clear. You want to get on the fresh paint as soon as you can. That also insures the white stays pristine. After it's clear coated you don't have to freak out so much about finger prints and stuff on the white.

 

[oshanac]

Nvr2old-the tape you use, is it different the the "regular" painters tape for home painting? I've used "painters tape" from say Home Depot and it always seem the adhesive sticks to the paint, even if I wait plenty long enough for the paint to dry. Is this automotive painters tape and does it have a cleaner release? Freaking awesome details and pics! This is so great for me.

I was in the service for almost 10 years, got in a really bad car accident and hurt my back. Long story short, I couldn't deploy any more and got medically discharged. I've spent the last two years, wondering what career I can do the rest of my life. I was talking to my sister-in-law about painting my bike and how much I LOVE painting things. She said "I should see how my face lights up when I'm talking about it". About a month ago, I decided I'd persue my long love affair with painting (bikes, cars, boats-I don't mind) and bought a really good book and DVD as a start. Soon it will be the basic equipment. Learning the "professional" side of it is so fun for me. I'm considering going to a local trade college to enroll and even apprentice under someone locally.

I've learned if you LOVE something so much, THAT is what you need to do for a career. You WILL find a way to make the money once you are fully passionate about your carrer. Seeing this post is what get me so excited for the future! So when I say I really appreaciate you taking the time for us, teaching us-I mean it!

 

[nvr2old]

I'm glad you're enjoying the progress on the S. I always encourage people to learn to paint. It's very satisfying work..when everything goes right..it can be very frustrating at times, too..and expensive if things have to be re-done. I love the whole process, though. Just takes time, and the courage to do it. I painted professionally for a number of years, but I have to admit, it's not the healthiest environment to be immersed in for 8 hrs. a day, so now I just do it for myself, and select friends.

The tapes I use are all 3M autobody grade..and that's IT. NO other tape even comes close. The beauty of 3M is it sticks, stays put, always stays flexible, and comes off w/o leaving a gluey residue what-so-ever. It's stickier than house paint tape, and a little pricey, but it's the sh-t, man. Good luck on your schooling.

 

[Buffalo Bill]

Ghost reflected?

Ghost reflected?

Did I see a 68-70 vette under a car cover tarp, reflected in a side cover?
I'm following your trail, but I know that shape under the tarp.
Bill

 

[nvr2old]

Ahhhh..you noticed. Good eye. Yeah, it's a '68 roadster I've owned for 33 years.

 

[Buffalo Bill]

Fabulous!

Fabulous!

I had a '70 for about a decade. I raced it for a few, then used it just for commuting mostly up and down the Outer Drive in Chicago. I rarely had the T Tops up. A fabulous car that had a life of it's own, I just took care of it for a few years until it found a new owner. It brought out the friendly side in people I met.
Bill

 

[srsupertrap]

Fantastic work, I think everyone is following this thread closely. After taping you applied the blue base directly over the white base coat which got me wondering

Question: I thought basecoats in general had to be clear coated within a 24 hour period? Is the PPG B/C & application of DCU 2021 clear coat different or based on your experience have you found you can safely exceed the 24 hour window with out ill effects?

 

[nvr2old]

Fantastic work, I think everyone is following this thread closely. After taping you applied the blue base directly over the white base coat which got me wondering

Question: I thought basecoats in general had to be clear coated within a 24 hour period? Is the PPG B/C & application of DCU 2021 clear coat different or based on your experience have you found you can safely exceed the 24 hour window with out ill effects?

That is definitely the recommendation. I think that's more critical to a metallic color then straight colors like this one. You can't sand a metallic w/o disturbing the metallic flakes, but you can sand solids. I've found that as long as they're very thin coats like they've been so far here, that it seems to be OK. But you still need to get the clear on as soon as you can. I'll scuff the white and blue a little with 600..barely..just enough to help make sure the clear will adhere. I've done it this way quite a few times with good results, much to the chagrin of the people at the paint store, though. It's really hard to clear coat within 24 hrs. when there are three colors involved. There has to be some drying time between them. The only other method that might work would be to clear between each color and then sand the clear before the next color coat, but that would take forever.

 

[srsupertrap]

That is definitely the recommendation. I think that's more critical to a metallic color then straight colors like this one. You can't sand a metallic w/o disturbing the metallic flakes, but you can sand solids. I've found that as long as they're very thin coats like they've been so far here, that it seems to be OK. But you still need to get the clear on as soon as you can. I'll scuff the white and blue a little with 600..barely..just enough to help make sure the clear will adhere. I've done it this way quite a few times with good results, much to the chagrin of the people at the paint store, though. It's really hard to clear coat within 24 hrs. when there are three colors involved. There has to be some drying time between them. The only other method that might work would be to clear between each color and then sand the clear before the next color coat, but that would take forever.

Nvr2old,
Thanks for the response, I asked because I am painting a two tone metallic scheme (1992 GM WA9544 Med Blue & 2009 WA636R Switch Blade Silver) and have read as you stated you cannot sand a metallic B/C w/o disturbing the flake pattern. I guess I will shoot the Med Blue, clear coat it and then tape off section for the silver unless someone has some experience with Dupont Nason Ful-Base Basecoat & Nason 497-00 Clear.

PM me if you have insight I don't mean to distract this thread.
Steve

 

[nvr2old]

That's how I would do yours. Paint the blue, immediately clear coat it with 2-3 coats. wait 24 hrs. then sand the clear smooth with 600, mask off the blue, spray the silver, clear coat immediately again with another 3-4 coats, let it set for a few days, then sand with 600-1000-1500-2000 and buff. Should work great.

 

[rustybronco]

I use automotive PPG paint and primers that are all 2-3 part products. Nice stuff.

are you using dbu or dbc base coat materials?