GS1000S paint work started

[Guest]

This thread is an exemple of why I joined and hang around this forum.

Priceless.

Best Regards,

 

[nvr2old]

Thanks for the kind words. It means a lot to me. Sharing skills and techniques is one of the main reasons I enjoy this site. That, and the passion that everyone has for these machines. It's very cool.

 

[1980GS1000E]

@nvr2old-

First off, your knowledge is awesome and that you enjoy sharing it is even more so. That being said, due to a minor collision of my fueltank with a brick that happened while the tank was off the bike,

I am now taking on a full bike repaint. I was going to do this anyway, the ding just motivated me. I bought all the paint and gear and I want to relay to you what the auto paint shop owner said as far as procedure and prep and get your view.
I am using Marson's Platinum Finishing glaze for the dent. He said to strip the tank using spray-on aircraft remover then prime with Omni AU Epoxy Primer, then apply the finishing glaze. Smooth as practical, then rattle can primer for sanding. I am confused about whether to put the finishing glaze on scuffed up bare metal, or to apply the primer first.

I will be using PPG Deltron 2000 black with Kwik Finish Urethane clearcoat. He recommends applying the repro decals between coats of clear. I thought it would be best to apply the stickers to the basecoat and then clearcoat over that.

Any advice?

 

[Beaver]

WoW!! :clap:

I fell upon this thread as I will be needing to paint soon, just wanted to say wow...

 

[nvr2old]

@nvr2old-

First off, your knowledge is awesome and that you enjoy sharing it is even more so. That being said, due to a minor collision of my fueltank with a brick that happened while the tank was off the bike,

I am now taking on a full bike repaint. I was going to do this anyway, the ding just motivated me. I bought all the paint and gear and I want to relay to you what the auto paint shop owner said as far as procedure and prep and get your view.
I am using Marson's Platinum Finishing glaze for the dent. He said to strip the tank using spray-on aircraft remover then prime with Omni AU Epoxy Primer, then apply the finishing glaze. Smooth as practical, then rattle can primer for sanding. I am confused about whether to put the finishing glaze on scuffed up bare metal, or to apply the primer first.

I will be using PPG Deltron 2000 black with Kwik Finish Urethane clearcoat. He recommends applying the repro decals between coats of clear. I thought it would be best to apply the stickers to the basecoat and then clearcoat over that.

Any advice?

Thanks for the compliment on the S. Just came out of my garage after spraying the second clear coating session to bury my stripes. I can't stay away from this site..

I agree with everything your paint store guy told you, except the filler for the dents. I think they're a little too deep for that particular application which, to me anyway, is just for sand scratches and very shallow low spots. I would use a product called "Rage" body filler at the high end, and just auto parts store Bondo brand filler at the least, which is still a good product, then skim coat it if necessary with the finishing glaze. After stripping the tank to bare metal, I agree, it's a good idea to hit it with a light coat of epoxy primer. I sometimes forgo that step and do my body work right on the bare steel and have had good results, but it's always safe to "follow the rules". As long as you do it all quickly and the tank doesn't sit around in the elements from stripped, to body work, to primer, you should be OK.

 

[1980GS1000E]

Thank you for your valued answer. What about the sanding of the base coat? He said not to, but I want to make it smooth as possible. And, lastly, have you heard of the this clear coat, or is PPG brand better?

 

[DMorris]

I just wanted to toss my "ATTA BOY!" in too.
You do beautiful work and that is one FINE "S"

I'm impressed!

Don

 

[nvr2old]

I just wanted to toss my "ATTA BOY!" in too.
You do beautiful work and that is one FINE "S"

I'm impressed!

Don

Thanks, Don. I appreciate that.

 

[nvr2old]

Thank you for your valued answer. What about the sanding of the base coat? He said not to, but I want to make it smooth as possible. And, lastly, have you heard of the this clear coat, or is PPG brand better?

I would agree with your guy if it were a metallic color. Your base coat is going to be black, so I would think it would be alright to sand it smooth with 600 before applying the decals and then the clear. Make sure you put enough black on to be able to sand it smooth. 3-4 good coats should be enough. Putting decals on an un-sanded surface sometimes shows the orange peel or small bits of dirt through the decals and then there's no way to cover it up, visually. When you're sanding the base coat, I would stay away from the edges. You want a pretty good buildup of color around those before clear coating. I'm not familiar with the brand of clear you're talking about. I've always used PPG products exclusively. PPG does make a slightly less expensive brand called Omni that works pretty well, kind of a "Acura-Honda" thing, but I've found that the best paint jobs come easier from the best materials. There are other quality brands besides PPG, but it's what I'm familiar with, and it works well. I just bite the bullet, pay the price, and know that it's gonna be better in the long run.

 

[OzJavelin]

Well .. I've read and re-read this thread and finally got the guts to just do it. I had the tank/panels of my GS550 ready to paint but just couldn't work out that I was doing .. until this. Attacked it on Sunday. Light blue "stripes", black tank centre stripe and final blue main colour. Just sprayed 4 coats of clear on it last night an looks great!

Thankyou for the detailed explanation.

Once question; does it matter how many days between this initial set of clear coats and the next? It will probably be about a week before I get a chance to do the "final" set of clear coats? I noticed the urgency to clearcoat the colours and was wondering if this was a similiar issue?

 

[1980GS1000E]

I would agree with your guy if it were a metallic color. Your base coat is going to be black, so I would think it would be alright to sand it smooth with 600 before applying the decals and then the clear. Make sure you put enough black on to be able to sand it smooth. 3-4 good coats should be enough. Putting decals on an un-sanded surface sometimes shows the orange peel or small bits of dirt through the decals and then there's no way to cover it up, visually. When you're sanding the base coat, I would stay away from the edges. You want a pretty good buildup of color around those before clear coating. I'm not familiar with the brand of clear you're talking about. I've always used PPG products exclusively. PPG does make a slightly less expensive brand called Omni that works pretty well, kind of a "Acura-Honda" thing, but I've found that the best paint jobs come easier from the best materials. There are other quality brands besides PPG, but it's what I'm familiar with, and it works well. I just bite the bullet, pay the price, and know that it's gonna be better in the long run.

The recommended steps were to spray the black then clear. Then apply the stickers to that and then another clear coat to bury the stickers.

 

[1980GS1000E]

Parts are finally primed and ready..

Parts are finally primed and ready..

After fixing the dents with the finishing glaze and sanding (and forgetting to take pics), I have primed and sanded the tank and other parts. I will be shooting the black and first clear tom'w, then I have to wait a week or so to apply the stickers. Then some more clear.

I think I did a pretty good job as far as the dings go. I only hope that the painting goes ok.

 

[nvr2old]

Lookin' good. I think I would block sand your primer a bit more, though. In the pics, it looks like I can still see some sand scratches, especially on the front. It looks like it's been sprayed with a guide coat, which is good, but it all needs to go away completely before spraying the black which will make those tiny scratches really stand out if you don't. Even if you can't feel them, you can see them. You've brought it a long way. Don't worry about the week or so in between clear coats. Just make sure you "open it up" with 600 the day after you spray the first clear coats. It needs to dry from the inside out, so that'll help immensly for when it comes time to spray more. Get all the shiney sanded off before you apply the decals and re-clear, or there's a chance the next layer of clear will not adhere to the last ones.

 

[1980GS1000E]

Thanks for the tip. I will get to sanding right away.

 

[Rkt-Rch]

Remember (2) water seprators in line with the paint process, How about a little pearl (whatever color works) mixed in !! I just love to put in pearl in the clear coat, when the sun hits it just right it gives it that whoa what the %@% is that and then whomever walks up to it and really admires all that hard work. I agree on the primer coat, ALL the sanding scratches MUST be Smmmoootth and gone. I did a fender for a bike and painted it black, spent alot of time preping (I thought) and after it was done if I looked real close I saw my shortcuts..

 

[1980GS1000E]

Got the water separators. At issue is the cfm of the compressor. It will put out about 7-8 and I think this HVLP gun needs more. Practiced some clearcoat tonight on a scratch piece and droplets are too big. Need more air.

 

[debrartin]

I have doing motorbike painting since 2012. And I use airbrush for painting. Sometimes also do car and other painting job. To do airbrushing Iwata is my first choice also has a badger airbrush. I always picked airbrush and compressor and other accessories from this source. I have painted 10+ bikes and parts past month. Here are some of painted works?????

 

[nvr2old]

This thread was my introduction to this forum, too. Good luck.