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GS1000tony's project

  • Thread starter Thread starter gs1000tony
  • Start date Start date
The rear shocks are YSS with adjustable ride height.
I stripped the seat back to the foam to see what had been done to the original foam. I already knew the base was beyond saving and have ordered a fibreglass base.
The PO had added an extra layer of 10mm foam over the existing foam as well as adding some 6mm foam to the inside of the cover.
I got a sharp knife out and started shaping and finished off with a sanding disc in an electric drill. To get a better idea of the seat/peg/handlebar relationship.

Carbs are GSX1100 EFE 36mm CV. These came with the bike. The front part of the airbox is for a GSX1100 ESD, these are available new at quite a reasonable price, though it looks like the top mounting bracket on the frame needs some modification. The plan is to fit a K&N pod onto the spigot where the back half of the airbox connects.

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I have just sat the original gauges in position to compare looks. I?m contemplating going for a full electric unit. Which will probably work out more cost effective, simpler and lighter than trying to refurb the originals.

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Which way do you think I should go?
 

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Another recent purchase is a lift table. The only thing to say is I wish I had got one years ago.

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I can't speak to the cost factor but on a non-stock bike i like the look of the electronic tach/speedo units.
Also think an 8" headlight unit would lessen the gap between the new tach and headlight shell and look great.
 
I decided to go with the Koso unit and have placed an order.

Been a bit busy over the last few weeks, but got around to doing a few small jobs over the weekend.

I ordered a Shindengen rec/reg and made up a adaptor plate to mount to the battery box in place of the ignitor.

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Air filter is K&N RU1830 which fits pretty well. I'll be making some sort of bracket to support the end using the existing points on the frame that support the oem airbox.

LH switchblock is 1200 Bandit.

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RH switchblock is Hayabusa, and will be fitted with an R1 throttle tube for a quicker action.

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Next on the list was the rear brake arm. I thought i would try an early GSXR 750/1100 one as that is what the caliper is off.

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The length of the arm happened to put the caliper in a nice location with the front lining up with one of the original foot peg bracket mounting bosses.

It be great if this was ok, but from what I could find out I think the arm needs to be more parallel with the swingarm.

I think i will shorten the caliper end, and attach the front end to the swingarm as per standard.

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Yes that brake arm should be parallel to the swing arm. And may i suggest a little tip. About lead weights on a wheel. Try putting some black duct tape on first, then the lead weight then more black duct tape over the weights. if done correctly you will hardly notice them there. Duct tape should keep in good nick for a few mths before its a pain to get the glue off just like weights will be. And how much and where did you get those wheels. Front is like hens teeth.
 
Hi Sharpy,
Have done the duct tape thing before, though as you say the duct tape ends up going sticky as well. It won't be an everyday bike so the tyres will probably be old before they're worn out:D

Can't do the parallel arm as the exhaust prevents this , hence going back to a swingarm mount.

I got the wheels via eBay, from a US seller. There were a few sets around when I was looking. Thankfully I bought them last year, before the arse fell out of the Aussie dollar.:D

Cheers,
Tony
 
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