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gs1100 clutch question

  • Thread starter Thread starter dr_puter
  • Start date Start date
D

dr_puter

Guest
Is the clutch release bearing assembly supposed to slide freely (slap around) in and out when you remove the clutch cover? I know that it attaches to the clutch release arm, etc. I assume that the arm turns the teeth that attach to the clutch release and pull the basket outward and disengage it. Is there some sort of adjustment or do you just pull the release bearing fully out from the clutch basket and hope for the best when you put the cover back on? This is the first time I've ever been in there.

I do have my clymer manual and it really doesn't say anything about it. The clutch cable was broke when I got the bike and after I got a new one the clutch wouldn"t engage /disengage. Like it wasn't attached internally. I did order springs and new bolts, etc. Also, three of the original bolts were broken off in the case. I have two out and am working on the third. Once I have the bolt out I can continue the process, but any and all guidance would be appreciated. I have to move to the shaft seals and gaskets next and would like to understand the clutch so I can sleep at night. Thank you in advance for your help.
 
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clutch

clutch

Hi, the clutch release mecanism sits in a boss in the clutch cover, it stops it wiggling about.:D
 
a boss?

a boss?

I think that is lost in translation. Am I missing something? I realize it goes into the hole (Is that the boss you are referring to?) on the clutch cover and is turned by the shaft with teeth there, but when the cover is off it is able to push back into the basket. Is that normal? do you just pull it out as far as you can and then hope the cover doesn't push it back in when you install it? Was I correct in how the clutch release mechanism works?
 
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Sorry Doc but I'm having a hard time understanding what you wrote. However as you slide off the cover the rod in the cover will just spin. Be sure to disconnect your clutch lever that connects to the cable!

Your Clutch basket SHOULD NOT slide out of the engine. Take the pressure plate off and there should be a nut holding the basket and hub into place...

I'm doing the same job on my 750 for the 1100 motor is now burning out the clutch after some upgrades and swapping in a V&H Billet basket. I'll post pics of what it looks like.
 
151021_3506517720549_2027155979_n.jpg

The basket will not hold the cover on and it shouldn't. The cover pulls the pressure plate out, compresses the springs allowing the friction fibers and contact discs to disengage which in turn neutralizes the drive off the crank.


598508_3506519760600_1265870156_n.jpg

With the Pressure plate removed you can see the nut the holds the assembly to the motor. Often this nut can come loose and cause clutch noise and odd clutch issues. It's this bolt and your cover that keep the Hub from flying around...

Not sure what your asking but hope this helps.
 
the large shaft drive's GS's i have worked on does not have the c clip to keep the rack from flopping about in the pressure plate.
once clutch cover is installed everything will be fine.
move the arm on the CC if necessary to get proper clutch cable attachment along with adjusting the cable.

jedz..
get those damn basket killers out of your 7/11 billet basket.
damn steel backed fiber plates anyways...should be outlawed!
but seriously...they are basket killers...
 
clutch

clutch

the large shaft drive's GS's i have worked on does not have the c clip to keep the rack from flopping about in the pressure plate.
once clutch cover is installed everything will be fine.

This is the heart of the question. The rack just flops around without the cover on. Jedz shows a C clip holding it. On my 1100 there isn't one. My original question is regarding this shaft or rack that sticks out of the basket.

How do you know that it is in and seated properly with the cover on? There seems to be so much room that it slides in and out with the cover off that it could push all the way in and not be able to pull out far enough to pull the basket.

I went with the description in my Clymer manual initially as I didn't know what to call it.
 
dr_puter said:
the large shaft drive's GS's i have worked on does not have the c clip to keep the rack from flopping about in the pressure plate.
once clutch cover is installed everything will be fine.

This is the heart of the question. The rack just flops around without the cover on. Jedz shows a C clip holding it. On my 1100 there isn't one. My original question is regarding this shaft or rack that sticks out of the basket.

How do you know that it is in and seated properly with the cover on? There seems to be so much room that it slides in and out with the cover off that it could push all the way in and not be able to pull out far enough to pull the basket.

I went with the description in my Clymer manual initially as I didn't know what to call it.
Click to expand...

you know it's seated properly by moving the clutch arm on the cover in and out.
the teeth of the rack has to engage in the teeth on the cover...simple?


hey...
help it along by moving the clutch arm when installing the cover...get a helper if you need to.
you will feel it engage and once the cover is installed put a large crescent wrench on the clutch arm and try to work the clutch.
 
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clutch

clutch

Because the arm will stop and not spin around. That is what I thought, but since my clutch does not seem to be engaging I thought well maybe the rack / stud isn't pulling out far enough. I did purchase new OEM Springs, gasket and bolts. I'll replace them and get it back together and see where I am. I just wanted to make sure while it was apart the first time that I wasn't missing something. Thank you.
 
make sure your pressure plate bearing is there and in good condition along with a shim or 2..i forget how many.
the needle bearings can fall a part sometimes.
these ride on the PP side of the rack shaft so when the clutch is pulled in the rack shaft and PP is not metal to metal.
 
clutch

clutch

I pulled it apart once. Well not too far I pulled the bolts springs off and the clutch basket cover. It had a shim and the pressure plate bearing. I found one of the bolt heads were different. No "7" on it, which is why I just ordered a new set of bolts and springs. The spacers are all there, so I'll replace the bolts and springs and see what happens. I also got new cover bolts since 3 were broken off and the PO used enough gasket goop to keep it from leaking. I still need to figure out how to remove the third one. The further in I dig the less it wants to come out. I need to start a winter project thread on this bike soon.
 
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1100GK Clutch

1100GK Clutch

so the questions is how do i get this to pull out and stay out while i am putting the cover on? it seems to push in all the way and even when i get the cover on the travel seems to be doing the same slap. If I put the bike in gear and try to engage the clutch the tire is still in gear and won"t spin freely.



The picture is a video. I replaced the springs with oem parts. I don't think I am getting close to enough of the shaft into the cover to pull against the basket to disengage.

I don't feel the shaft come close to ever pulling against the springs. If anyone can point me in the right direction I would be extremely grateful.
 
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clutch

clutch

I had a new thought. I'll try it today.
 
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Clutch issue resolved

Clutch issue resolved

Newbie issue. Very silly looking back on it now. I really didn't understand because my clutch cable was broke when I got the bike. The answer it turns out was very simple. Nowhere does it mention that the lever needs to be at the end of its pull when you attach the clutch cable to it. I guess anyone that has worked on a clutch already knows this, but I did not. It works now. Sorry to update an old thread but I figured there may be other newbies join the group and need a basic answer to a frustrating newbie clutch issue.
 
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