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GS1100 Small end crank

  • Thread starter Thread starter 81gs1100
  • Start date Start date
8

81gs1100

Guest
Ok, I think this ones for Ray...

Im stuck with a small end crank, ( no money yet for a replacment)

I hear is I don't run a flywheel, I should be ok with a lower HP motor dragracing. My question is, can I somehow keep my starter?

I have not taken it apart so I don't know how the flywheel and starter drive goes together. I don't need a stator, but racing alone, I can't really use a starter cart. Besides the cost of a good crank would be cheaper then a starter cart.

Or would I be ok with the stock crank? Motor is stock, only mods, sidewinder ( hopfully baffled ), carb jetting. Going to be running a MRE lockup clutch, or similar, soft launches, slick, air shifter @ 8000RPM give or take? I am looking to launch soft, not run hard, I want to run the Sportman class in Douglas and the index is 12.00. I would just like to get familar with all the controls and getting a consistant launch. Plans are to build motor up this winter.
 
An answer is yes, you can keep your starter. It's possible to separate the alternator rotor from the center boss - drill out the rivets.
The starter clutch mounts to the boss - just be sure to either rivet over the retaining screws or spot weld them.
This cuts down the mass on the end of the crank enough you shouldn't have a problem.

I've posted pics of this in a roadrace application somewhere on here.
 
Without the weight of the flywheel, how would the starting, launch and upshifts be effected?
 
Just a little crisper... less mass rotating. I left my bike self starting and just took the armature out. I had to weld my starter together as I was shearing the 3 bolts that hold it together. That was last year and have had no problems...
Curt
 
Use harden grade 8 bolts to put it back together without the magnetic rotor and you will be fine doing what you want to do. The most dangerous time for the end of the crank is at the finish line or just befor it. If you tree someone really bad your gonna want to bap them bad but if your going 10,000 rpm and you chop the throttle don't do that just roll off the throttle easy and you will be fine.
Your going to be plesently suprised when you run the set up your talking about should run in the low 11's your gonna have to slow it down a bunch. That bike will run 12.oo's bone stock with a chin-shin tire and a mac header with some jetting you dont need a lock up save up for a slider clutch later when you build a motor.
If you put the sidewinder on it, lower it, skip the lock up clutch and just put stiff springs in it, get ride of the CV carbs for some 36mm RS carbs. degree the cams in at 107/109 and set the shift lite at 9800 rpm and you will be deep in the 10's. I ran a 82 Katana 9.60's @ 140+ mph week after week button starting no bar 68'' w/b

Are you going to be using a wheelie bar or extended swingarm and no bar?
 
Use harden grade 8 bolts to put it back together without the magnetic rotor and you will be fine doing what you want to do. The most dangerous time for the end of the crank is at the finish line or just befor it. If you tree someone really bad your gonna want to bap them bad but if your going 10,000 rpm and you chop the throttle don't do that just roll off the throttle easy and you will be fine.
Your going to be plesently suprised when you run the set up your talking about should run in the low 11's your gonna have to slow it down a bunch. That bike will run 12.oo's bone stock with a chin-shin tire and a mac header with some jetting you dont need a lock up save up for a slider clutch later when you build a motor.
If you put the sidewinder on it, lower it, skip the lock up clutch and just put stiff springs in it, get ride of the CV carbs for some 36mm RS carbs. degree the cams in at 107/109 and set the shift lite at 9800 rpm and you will be deep in the 10's. I ran a 82 Katana 9.60's @ 140+ mph week after week button starting no bar 68'' w/b

Are you going to be using a wheelie bar or extended swingarm and no bar?

This is what my bike looks like, was running 12.00s, very soft launches, 2.0 60ft times, with a very old street tire. So yes, extended arm, no bar yet. I will be shooting faster once I get my ignition and delay box, but I delt with those damn single digit reaction times enough racing Pro Bike. Anyways, I get to pick sportsman (12.00 or slower with triple digit reaction times) or Super Pro ( 12.00 or quicker with double and single digit reaction times). And this will be a new track to me at 5200ft altitude compared to the 2200 ft of my old track. SO who knows!! But I have a fear of the whole wheelie thing, I had a few bad oopses and a bit gun shy. But im streached and raked with this bike so am sure a bit harder to stand up then my old hayabusa.


picture.php
 
This is what my bike looks like, was running 12.00s, very soft launches, 2.0 60ft times, with a very old street tire. So yes, extended arm, no bar yet. I will be shooting faster once I get my ignition and delay box, but I delt with those damn single digit reaction times enough racing Pro Bike. Anyways, I get to pick sportsman (12.00 or slower with triple digit reaction times) or Super Pro ( 12.00 or quicker with double and single digit reaction times). And this will be a new track to me at 5200ft altitude compared to the 2200 ft of my old track. SO who knows!! But I have a fear of the whole wheelie thing, I had a few bad oopses and a bit gun shy. But im streached and raked with this bike so am sure a bit harder to stand up then my old hayabusa.


picture.php

You got a nice start well more than a start to a nice no bar bracket bike there. You gotta lose the CV carbs though. you need control of the slides not the vacume and put a Bandit 5.5'' rear wheel on it with a shinko 180/50/17 U-soft on it. The early 97 to 05 Bandit wheel can be had cheep and the are the same size axel as the GS1100's
I use a slider on my stock w/b no bar street tire GS1150 when I bracket raced it for awhile. I have the slider set up to launch at 2500 rpm gets a 1.60 60' footer and runs around a 9.90's very consistantly set up like I had it. I am putting a extended swingarm on it now so I can leave harder. Trying to get it ready for this weekend for Pro ET. It is not hard to make a no bar bike consistant. Just add slider.
I am going to run my 98 1200 Bandit 62'' w/b in Street ET and the Street Fighter (9.50) index if I can go quick enough on it.
Wahoo no bar is fun racin! Come on do it cut those wheelie bar brackets off of there
 

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I've made many laps at Douglas. At that altitude there is not a lot of low end omph.with a basically stock motor. Lots of room both width at (100'wide) and a full mile of shut down. Just need to watch out for the Antelope. Had one standing on the track just past the finishline on a pass of my funnybike. Was something like 186mph as I went by it at less than 10' . Made my eyes get real big.
If you want, I have a big end crank that I'd donate to you. factory welded, helical gear. PM me if you want it.
 
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