GS1100E Money Pit Thread

[doctorgonzo]

Thought I should go ahead and start a rebuild thread as I'm already starting to have questions. I haven't even taken the tank off yet to see if the coils were replaced when the PO put those pretty yellow Accel wires on or not. I'm too busy finishing breaking my RF900 to get it the hell out of the garage so I can have room. A guy is coming to get the frame and engine tomorrow, so that will give me the space I need to really get started.

To recap, here it is as it sat at the PO's house when I went to pick it up. $400 with a title.

Parked for a "bad stator" by the PO, which translates to "it wouldn't charge", so that could be any combination of stator, R/R unit, and wiring. That will be one of the first things to sort out.

Initially looked complete, but it's missing the original airbox (no great loss there), but it came with a set of real K&N Pods. After I got it home I realized one of the front calipers was missing.

Pretty typical amount of rust, not too bad. Handlebars (no great loss), here and there on the frame in the typical spots where the paint will get rubbed (under the seat, etc...), battery box, etc...

The side covers are partially held in place with zip ties, haven't really looked, but probably some broken tabs.

I rolled it in his drive in 3rd gear and felt compression on all 4 cylinders, motor not locked, no major internal damage that would stop motor from turning.

The engine end of the exhaust looks identical to my V&H I have on my 1000, so pretty sure on that. The slip on portion look different. It has an oval indentation for the manufacturer's name, and it's missing. May be V&H as well, just an older style logo. There is no baffle in it, straight pipe.

Budget, plans, etc... coming in a few minutes.

 

[doctorgonzo]

The plan is to build it over the course of the next 12 to 18 months with a budget of about $3000. That will mostly be for budget reasons. I could probably do it in 6 if I had a bottomless bank account (which none of us do).

Down to the frame for frame bracing (which I have experience with) and powdercoat. Pretty much everything will get powdercoat except the tank and bodywork. I may do the engine in black, haven't decided.

Engine: Budget $1500 to $2000
Bore to 1168 (max for the stock sleeves), haven't decided on compression yet, the 10.25:1 or the 13.5:1
High lift cams (.348"), and all that comes with that, HD springs, etc...
Possible oversize valves, still debating.

Front Suspension:
I don't want to go inverted forks, but I want improved performance. I think the compromise is the 43mm cartridge forks. I actually have a set, along with the upper and lower triple off this RF900. They are 29.5 from the top of the tree to the middle of the axle, which is the same length as the forks currently on the bike. Fork Brace for sure.

Wheels and rear suspension:
I have the 17" 3 spoke wheels off the RF900. They are currently running 120/70/17 on the front and 180/55/17 on the rear. I think that if I used the forks and triples off the RF900 I can run the front wheel and opposed piston calipers off the RF900 along with the RF900 wheel. The rear is where I have the question. Can I run the rear with a 170 wheel and make it fit the stock swingarm, or should I do the mods to put the RF 900 swingarm on there and run the 180.

More to come.

 

[posplayr]

The plan is to build it over the course of the next 12 to 18 months with a budget of about $3000. That will mostly be for budget reasons. I could probably do it in 6 if I had a bottomless bank account (which none of us do).

Down to the frame for frame bracing (which I have experience with) and powdercoat. Pretty much everything will get powdercoat except the tank and bodywork. I may do the engine in black, haven't decided.

Engine: Budget $1500 to $2000
Bore to 1168 (max for the stock sleeves), haven't decided on compression yet, the 10.25:1 or the 13.5:1
High lift cams (.348"), and all that comes with that, HD springs, etc...
Possible oversize valves, still debating.

Front Suspension:
I don't want to go inverted forks, but I want improved performance. I think the compromise is the 43mm cartridge forks. I actually have a set, along with the upper and lower triple off this RF900. They are 29.5 from the top of the tree to the middle of the axle, which is the same length as the forks currently on the bike. Fork Brace for sure.

Wheels and rear suspension:
I have the 17" 3 spoke wheels off the RF900. They are currently running 120/70/17 on the front and 180/55/17 on the rear. I think that if I used the forks and triples off the RF900 I can run the front wheel and opposed piston calipers off the RF900 along with the RF900 wheel. The rear is where I have the question. Can I run the rear with a 170 wheel and make it fit the stock swingarm, or should I do the mods to put the RF 900 swingarm on there and run the 180.

More to come.

180's fit stock swing arms it is just tight. what extra dynamics the RF 900 wheels add I dont know but with a 180 you have little room to spare. Will need a thin 520 chain and offset sprocket with proper rear wheel spacers.


For your engine mods you might want to consider this thread I started a while back when I was doing my motor. If you are going to 0.348's I would think some port work would be in order and sling shot's or RS 36's.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=137631

 

[doctorgonzo]

Well, very conveniently, I have a set of 36mm Slingshots already on the way from Kochic in Canada. I bought them with the intention of putting them on the bored out 1000G, but I finally got the 34mm CVs dialed in on it, so I think I will save them for this project. Thanks for the thread link, I'll check it out.

I guess one advantage of using the RF900 swinger is that it's already set up for running the torque arm and caliper under the swingarm instead of above which would make (I think) the brake conversion easy. Of course it's monshock, so what you save on the brake conversion you pay on the shock conversion.

 

[Guest]

Bandit and RF900 rear wheels are the same part number from my research. I prefer 170 rear wheel and 3/8" offset with 530 chain so that frame doesn't need to be "adjusted" but do you own research on this, there's tons of info on the site.

Are you building a street bike or a drag bike? If your gonna drive it on the street I don't know how you would get by with 13.5 compression. I would follow posplayr's engine mods and see if you can get his head builder to do yours. Seems like a more economical way of getting close to 130 HP. It's tempting to go all out on the engine build but you may not appreciate the drive-ability of the final product if its for the street. If its for the drags forget everything I've said.

You sure got a great deal.

 

[doctorgonzo]

Bandit and RF900 rear wheels are the same part number from my research. I prefer 170 rear wheel and 3/8" offset with 530 chain so that frame doesn't need to be "adjusted" but do you own research on this, there's tons of info on the site.

Are you building a street bike or a drag bike? If your gonna drive it on the street I don't know how you would get by with 13.5 compression. I would follow posplayr's engine mods and see if you can get his head builder to do yours. Seems like a more economical way of getting close to 130 HP. It's tempting to go all out on the engine build but you may not appreciate the drive-ability of the final product if its for the street. If its for the drags forget everything I've said.

You sure got a great deal.

Building a "street rod", so I was kind of thinking that on the pistons, that 13.5 was too much. Hell at that compression you must go through starter clutches like crazy if you're not using an outboard starter. I'll probably take it to the track and run it a few times just to see what it will do, but not building a pure race bike.

I had APE build the head on my 1000. They really aren't that much more expensive than your corner machine shop, though they up the prices a bit if you send in your own parts rather than buying theirs.

So the Bandit/Rf900 wheel with a 170 tire will work with the stock 1100E swingarm? That would mean just welding a mount for the torque arm on the underside to use the larger discs and the opposed piston caliper off the RF900. Plus the sprocket mods of course.

 

[Guest]

So the Bandit/Rf900 wheel with a 170 tire will work with the stock 1100E swingarm? That would mean just welding a mount for the torque arm on the underside to use the larger discs and the opposed piston caliper off the RF900. Plus the sprocket mods of course.[/QUOTE]

I should have mentioned that I'm using a bandit arm so can't confirm specifics with respect to stock arm but Katman's site and posts have a lot of valuable research on wide wheels and stock arms.

 

[doctorgonzo]

So the Bandit/Rf900 wheel with a 170 tire will work with the stock 1100E swingarm? That would mean just welding a mount for the torque arm on the underside to use the larger discs and the opposed piston caliper off the RF900. Plus the sprocket mods of course.

I should have mentioned that I'm using a bandit arm so can't confirm specifics with respect to stock arm but Katman's site and posts have a lot of valuable research on wide wheels and stock arms.[/QUOTE]

Gotcha, I'll take a look. If not, I think the RF900 arm will work. The PIA will be grinding off the monshock mount and adding the mounts for twin shocks, but I've seen a thread on here where it was done to a monshock swinger.

 

[posplayr]

Are you building a street bike or a drag bike? If your gonna drive it on the street I don't know how you would get by with 13.5 compression. I would follow posplayr's engine mods and see if you can get his head builder to do yours. Seems like a more economical way of getting close to 130 HP. It's tempting to go all out on the engine build but you may not appreciate the drive-ability of the final product if its for the street. If its for the drags forget everything I've said.

You sure got a great deal.

Mine will power wheelie in first three gears; ask Chef (Bill), I have only had it in the air in 2nd. I understand the Slingshots will add 5-7 hp as well but have not done that.

In the twisties I have enough torque I seldom even downshift to come out hot unless I hit a real tight corner.

Already running 147.5 mikuni mains with the 1150 36mm CV's. Any more power and gas mileage will probably drop below 30 mpg. For mid range torque, I don't need any more power and I would not do anything different if I had to do again. If you can scare up a 4:2:1, I would go that way as well. Possible Bandit header or other you might find. It really helps the mid range torque.

Again ask Bill what he thinks of mine. He was grinning last time he rode it.

Jim

 

[doctorgonzo]

No doubt Pos, I'm SUPER excited about this bike. I LOVE my G, and believe me I put my heart and soul into building it, going WAY over the top on it really, and of course I have it to enjoy while I takle my time building this one, BUT this E.. wow.. it loooks fast just sitting there. You just look at it, stock, and think, that is a fast bike. The G is much more a sleeper. It's so heavy, and with the shaft, never wheelied, but the old G will smoke the back tire going from 2nd to 3rd if you aren't careful.

 

[posplayr]

No doubt Pos, I'm SUPER excited about this bike. I LOVE my G, and believe me I put my heart and soul into building it, going WAY over the top on it really, and of course I have it to enjoy while I takle my time building this one, BUT this E.. wow.. it loooks fast just sitting there. You just look at it, stock, and think, that is a fast bike. The G is much more a sleeper. It's so heavy, and with the shaft, never wheelied, but the old G will smoke the back tire going from 2nd to 3rd if you aren't careful.

Sorry, was not trying to say anything negative about your G; I know it is nice and you made it that way. My point was more you buy GS1100/1150 power by the yard. How much do you want? Stock is 108-111 hp at the crank, big block and a few things to the head and you are at 130-135. Go a little bigger (like Bills 1230) and you are at 150-160 rear wheel. RapidRay will build you a 1400 cc street machine that will smoke the rear wheel in 4th gear from 20 mph. APE lists up to 1600 cc piston sets and Ray say they go to 1700 cc.

The other way to go is what Katman e-mailed me last nite which was a 200+ hp turbo setup. Better get an extended swing arm for that.

KrisV has a Nitros Turbo 1150 doing close as a daily driver?

What I researched and picked was something that would make my 1100 noticeably faster than a stock 1150 (124 hp at the crank). So we are talking about a low to mid 10's street bike. Good enough performance for the drag and plenty of power for twisties.

 

[doctorgonzo]

No offense taken, I understand exactly what you meant.

Yeah, that's the thing with these 1100's. It really is a question of "How much money do you have, and how fast do you want to go" because there is almost no limit, you can build them into 300 HP full on drag strip demon, or you can leave them stock, and anything in between.

I'm headed to pretty much where you are. 130 to 150 HP. Streetable, and controllable, but will also eat GSXRs for lunch in the 1/8th if that's what you want to do.

 

[Turtleface]

No offense taken, I understand exactly what you meant.

Yeah, that's the thing with these 1100's. It really is a question of "How much money do you have, and how fast do you want to go" because there is almost no limit, you can build them into 300 HP full on drag strip demon, or you can leave them stock, and anything in between.

I'm headed to pretty much where you are. 130 to 150 HP. Streetable, and controllable, but will also eat GSXRs for lunch in the 1/8th if that's what you want to do.

Great, another 1100 E thread to subscribe to!

Welcome to the 1982 1100 E club. It was a big year for these bikes, they got all sort of neat bits, like the aluminum swing arm, the redesigned TSCC head, and a few other bits and bobs. Suzuki was gunning for the six cylinder CBX when they brought these bikes out, and they beat 'em. With two less cylinders, to boot. Maybe I can start getting going on resto-modding mine, and everyone with a big nasty '82 E can meet up in the middle of the country one day and have a nice ride together.

 

[doctorgonzo]

Great, another 1100 E thread to subscribe to!

Welcome to the 1982 1100 E club. It was a big year for these bikes, they got all sort of neat bits, like the aluminum swing arm, the redesigned TSCC head, and a few other bits and bobs. Suzuki was gunning for the six cylinder CBX when they brought these bikes out, and they beat 'em. With two less cylinders, to boot. Maybe I can start getting going on resto-modding mine, and everyone with a big nasty '82 E can meet up in the middle of the country one day and have a nice ride together.

Well I love your area of the country, so you're on.

 

[Turtleface]

180's fit stock swing arms it is just tight. what extra dynamics the RF 900 wheels add I dont know but with a 180 you have little room to spare. Will need a thin 520 chain and offset sprocket with proper rear wheel spacers.


For your engine mods you might want to consider this thread I started a while back when I was doing my motor. If you are going to 0.348's I would think some port work would be in order and sling shot's or RS 36's.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=137631

Thanks for that link as well! I've been reading through the thread, and I'm pretty sure I've convinced myself to build a motor. You're lucky I'm young and single, or I'm sure I'd have a ****ed off wife headed your way.

 

[rapidray]

Hey Doctor, welcome to the club!!! Let me know if I can be of any help. I am trying to get back home so I can finish a 1230/1100 I am building for someone in Maryland but I can't even get any time off work to be home to finish it. Call me at 714-356-7845 if you need any questions answered. If you get my voicemail, leave a message & I'll call you back. Ray.

 

[doctorgonzo]

Thanks Ray, I will. Got to decide exactly how big I want to go. Staying out of new sleeves or a big block saves a lot of money, so may stick with 1168 and really trick out the head. My plan is to spend $1500 to $2000 on the motor, and about $1000 on the rest of the bike.

 

[Guest]

I didn't see any mention of having the crank welded, but I suppose you have planned on it, en route to 130 bhp? Probably best to verify if your bike already has a weld-reinforced stock crank or not, although the factory jobs are not as thoroughly done as the professionally welded cranks. It would suck to have the crank twist, after all the other mods.....although a friend who has had 3 GS1100E (1 square headlight '81, and 2 EDs, one built to 1260 with NOS) said it was a bit of a crap shoot....some un-welded crank 81/82 bikes have been wheelied and drag raced to death with no ill effects, while others have suffered twisted cranks without regular abuse. But with a 30% increase in hp, better safe than sorry, IMHO.
Tony.

 

[jwhelan65]

Another 1100e fat tire conversion joins the club!! Looking forward to it, You going to leave it black?

 

[rapidray]

I have an 1150 block with a set of 1230 pistons that are 18 mm pins for an 1100 if you are interested in going a little bigger than 1166! This block will drop right onto your cases without needing to bore the cases. I will take $450.00 or $550.00 with new rings + shipping. I won't hesitate to use them in one of my motors if they don't sell. Let me know if you are interested. Ray.