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GS1100E Money Pit Thread

  • Thread starter Thread starter doctorgonzo
  • Start date Start date
doctorgonzo said:
Good input. Stuff to think about.

Frank doesn't make 43mm tubes. I already emailed and asked. This would have been my preference, but no go.
With an 18" wheel I'll open a can of fitment issues with the brakes and front fender. One of the advantages of the RF900 forks with the 17" wheel, is they go togther, so the 900 twin pots bolt right on making front brake conversion cake.
Option 3 sounds the the best, get a cheap top triple and hack off the clamps then weld underneath the clamps on the 900 triple. I'll have to see what the clearance is as it sits. I don't want to scrape my pipe every time I turn in my drive, but as you guys know I am a straight line speed guy, no plans to be footpeg scraping in the twisties.
Click to expand...

My measurements for triple offset
Distance from the top of the fork to the top of the frame head set tube; compensates for drop triples
Click to expand...

So normally the top of the stanchion is above the top of the frame as in the following measurements:

GS1100E -1 inch
GSXR 1100/750 1st Gen -1.0 inch
GSXR 1100/750 2nd Gen -1.5 inch
DropTriple 0.0 inch (no loss)

The numbers are negative because they subtract from the available stanchion length. A drop triple would at least buy back 1 inch and so the top of the stanchion would be level with the top of the steering tube (approx)

I pulled these numbers from my ride height spreadsheet. With a few numbers I can set it up for you and then send a copy. I have used it for GS1100EZ/ED ride height calculations.
 
I'll bust out the good camera and take better photos with measurements tonight Pos.

Probably be this weekend before I can mock up the rear end. See if that big 5.5 really will fit in the stock swingarm, or if it's time to think about a swingarm swap (still have the RF900 swinger as well)

On the engine front, got an email in to Ray about a 1230 big block kit he may still have. Going to sit down and start specing out the top end soon. Plan is to get the rear end mocked up, make sure there are no major unknowns there, then get the engine off the frame. Can't make major decisions until I pull the head, see if anything non-stock in there, and check the overall condition. Then I can get on the APE site, and get an estimate on all the work I'd have done in my dream world (new guides, oversized valves, etc...), and see how it fits the budget.

Budget... oh geez.. thinking about it this morning, my freaking powder coat bill will be $300 to $400 dollars
 
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Struck a deal with Ray, not a big block, an 1150 block bored 3mm over with wiseco 10.25 to 1 flat top pistons, fresh hone and rings, so the middle 1/3 of the engine done. Probably be 3 or 4 months on the top 1/3. Gonna get the rear end mocked up tomorrow, then start tearing the engine apart. Manufacture date on the bike is 12/31/81, so almost certainly not the welded crank. Still haven't drained the oil to pull the cover and check the end.
 
isleoman said:
My 1100's build date was 02/82 and the crank wasn't welded.
Click to expand...

Yeah, have't confirmed, but almost no chance mine is. I got the rear wheel mocked up today, and the 180 does indeed fit in the stock swinger (pics later). I also got the valve cover off, confirmed it has stock cams, nothing wrong with the top end from a quick inspection under the cover. Next on the agenda is check for the crank being twisted.
 
180 in the standard swingarm. While I have it on there need to mock up the torque arm/brake on the bottom to find the right spot to weld on the mount.

l_890d1f8885fb4df3844b3f25576e00e1.jpg



l_3b3a3fdf79f7462b8347bce34c24c881.jpg



l_0c737a19ad784f1d99486bc4cc4d220f.jpg



This was just to make sure it fit. Gotta get it centered, and figure out the spacer situation.
 
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Latest edition to the parts stash for this bike. I ordered them for the 1000G, but going to save them for the E instead. One sync post gone from the tops, gotta figure out how I'm going to fix that. BST36SS Slingshots, $100 shipped from Canada. I'll need to tear them apart before use.

l_bbf9557e91a64cb396400114775307cc.jpg
 
doctorgonzo said:
Latest edition to the parts stash for this bike. I ordered them for the 1000G, but going to save them for the E instead. One sync post gone from the tops, gotta figure out how I'm going to fix that. BST36SS Slingshots, $100 shipped from Canada. I'll need to tear them apart before use.

l_bbf9557e91a64cb396400114775307cc.jpg
Click to expand...

Nice price; but you wanna look out for wear in the jet nozzles. The needle wobble in the nozzle and can wear both causing rough idle. Dyno jet makes kits kits with the nozzle for about $175, the Factory pro kits are reputed to be much better. FP kits require you but the OEM nozzles which adds about $80. I have the DJ kits but have not tried the carbs yet.
 
rapidray said:
"Emulsion Tube" is the name of the part Jim is referring to when he says "jet Nozzle" . Ray.
Click to expand...

Yea I'm confused as the what I seem to be remembersing is the old SU CV's used to call emulsion tubes jets.
 
emulsion tubes..jet nozzles...lil metal thingys...its all the same...:D
 
In the lateset "sweet saved a few bucks", I discovered last night that that the BDST36 carbs I had planned to clean up and sell from the RF900 seem to share virtually all parts with the BST36SS Slingshots. I had a cover with a broken off sync port, and the cover from the BDST is identical. Needles, choke mechanism, and other parts look very similar as well. The only real difference I have found is the float bowls (since the BDST are made to sit at that downward angle). So looks like I have a "free" set of parts carbs. The slides are even that same "semi flat", haven't really checked the bottom to see if the slide has the "slingshot" profile.
 
Ok, back to the rear end. I have it pretty close, maybe a mm or two off still, but getting there. This is the stock top hat on the left side.

l_26375129c1664dc1ba35c3c9e64d8fee.jpg



It looks like the left top hat needs to go down about 1 maybe 2 mm, but that introduces this issue.

l_cfad032c404b4006a13dd8b53f391a7b.jpg



Where it looks like the bolt that holds the sprocket to the carrier will nick the swingarm. This is the stock 630 sprocket, which will be replaced with a 530, maybe a 520. Just grind down the carrier bolt to get that mm or two?
 
doctorgonzo said:
Ok, back to the rear end. I have it pretty close, maybe a mm or two off still, but getting there. This is the stock top hat on the left side.

l_26375129c1664dc1ba35c3c9e64d8fee.jpg



It looks like the left top hat needs to go down about 1 maybe 2 mm, but that introduces this issue.

l_cfad032c404b4006a13dd8b53f391a7b.jpg



Where it looks like the bolt that holds the sprocket to the carrier will nick the swing arm. This is the stock 630 sprocket, which will be replaced with a 530, maybe a 520. Just grind down the carrier bolt to get that mm or two?
Click to expand...

Since U are using a stock GS swing arm (it is symmetrical and centered in the bike frame) , it would be best to make sure that the distance from the inside of the fork to the tire or rim is the same distance on both sides. That reference to the center of the tire is not gonna work very well.
 
Since U are using a stock GS swing arm (it is symmetrical and centered in the bike frame) , it would be best to make sure that the distance from the inside of the fork to the tire or rim is the same distance on both sides. That reference to the center of the tire is not gonna work very well.


Good thinking. I will measure that up. I thought the stock swingarm (not being offset at all) should simplify things. I'd add, this was not intended as a final method to have it perfectly centered, just a quick and dirty way to get it pretty close to see what interference issues where there, and indeed I found one. The sprocket carrier bolts.
 
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I saw in one of the 1100 530 conversion threads that 17/48 was pretty close to the stock gearing. So, if I wanted to do a 530 conversion with the the RF900 rear wheel, I'd get the 48 tooth rear sprocket for an RF900, and a 17 tooth front sprocket for a GS1100E (with the appropriate offset) correct?

Edit: And I'd use the 1100 length 96 link chain. So, 48 tooth RF900 Rear Sprocket, 17 tooth 1100 front sprocket of the appropriate offset, and the 1100 length chain (because using stock swingarm, and stock diamteter wheel).
 
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96 links doesn't sound right for a 530 chain. I use 116 on my bandit arm, others use 114 on stock arms. Takes more 530 links to = 630 links. Best bet is order 120 links and cut to proper length after test fit. I use 17/47 combo. I think that results in a little more bottom end.

My 1100 use to make a barely discernible top end whine when I had reached my typical cruising speed and the revs were around 3000 rpms in 5th gear. With the tad lower gearing it puts my revs closer to 3300 and eliminates that old noise. Puts the engine in a better place to accelerate from. I have Stage I Yosh Cams and 1134 Yosh pistons so that may have something to do with it but I seem to remember always hearing that whine even when it was close to new and before the engine work. Your results may differ.
 
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