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GS1100E Money Pit Thread

  • Thread starter Thread starter doctorgonzo
  • Start date Start date
isleoman said:
96 links doesn't sound right for a 530 chain. I use 116 on my bandit arm, others use 114 on stock arms. Takes more 530 links to = 630 links. Best bet is order 120 links and cut to proper length after test fit. I use 17/47 combo. I think that results in a little more bottom end.

My 1100 use to make a barely discernible top end whine when I had reached my typical cruising speed and the revs were around 3000 rpms in 5th gear. With the tad lower gearing it puts my revs closer to 3300 and eliminates that old noise. Puts the engine in a better place to accelerate from. I have Stage I Yosh Cams and 1134 Yosh pistons so that may have something to do with it but I seem to remember always hearing that whine even when it was close to new and before the engine work. Your results may differ.
Click to expand...

Ok, that makes sense. The 96 link "stock" for the 1100 is a 630 chain, and the smaller link size of the 530 would make it more links. I haven't owned a chain bike in 15 years. Gotten used to the shaft drive, so all this sprocket and chain stuff is having to sink in.
 
Last edited:
Little searching on OSS. One option is to reverse the sprocket. Probably gonna go ahead and order the rear sprocket so I can get the rear centered. can't do it with the stock sprocket. Hit's the swingarm before wheel is centered.
 
Are you using the GS hub in a RF900 or Bandit wheel . If no you should try it. I have my sprocket reversed. Not very pretty but modders can't always have their way.
 
isleoman said:
Are you using the GS hub in a RF900 or Bandit wheel . If no you should try it. I have my sprocket reversed. Not very pretty but modders can't always have their way.
Click to expand...

Have the RF900 hub on there/sprocket carrier on there. Of course! I should see if the GS one will work, and made not be as wide. Thanks sir!

I'm really working a lot out as I go along, first time to do there kind of mods. I have read a lot of threads, but really have to get into your specific situation with the components you are using and work it out. Maybe I'll start referring to it as an "EFE" in honor of you Brits.
 
Right mate, here's some additional reading and pics on the subject http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=152597.

I believe the Bandit and RF900 share the same part number for the rear wheel. Your moving fast but you need to start planning on how your going to handle your rear master cylinder.

PS ISLEOMAN is just a screen name I was born in Union City,TN and live in New England. Seeing the Isle o Man race is on the bucket list. Maybe next year.
 
Haha!
Funny about Union City.

On the rear master. I have the RF900 rearsets with the integrated one, but not sure how well they will bolt up, but that's the route I'll go, maybe a GSXR set.
 
Bad Kaw said:
Nice read. Thanks for the link.
-KR
Click to expand...

It is a good read. The only reason for me to relocate my rear master is to use rear sets. I am using the stock swingarm, so I don't have the clearance issues he does.
 
Ah, so you are using stock pegs then. Makes sense, then.
'Pegs' was the one area that I thought that guy might have addressed (in the link), but didn't. Seemes like a relatively simple modification that would have gone very nicely with his particular bike...would have complemented his other mods.
But if you're keeping your suspension stock and most other stuff I can see staying with whatchya got...stock is pretty comfy.
Oh, I have seen Katana guys put GS1150E/ES footpeg assemblys on their bikes with little or no hastle and they look good. Just a thought.
 
If your using rear sets with integrated master cylinder like the ZX12R units on mine then forget my concern.

Waters-Farm-Sunset-091108-0.jpg
 
Oh, love THAT bike!
Do you have close ups of the rear-sets; as in where and how you mounted them?
 
isleoman said:
Hate to step on the Doctor's thread, please step into my Office, I've been working on a tutorial.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=152341
Click to expand...

Bookmarked.
My thread is so rambling anyway. It may need to be stepped on. Mainly me working out the plans in my head. Money tapped for a month or two after sinking $600 into the motor (1230 kit). So using the time I can't spend any money to cement a lot of the long range plans for frame and suspension. I need to get that nailed down before I start bracing the frame and otherwise hacking on it.
 
Good tip on the sprocket carrier guys. The 1100 on is 6 mm narrower than the one from the RF900 wheel, but the same diameter and cush configuration. I needed to find about 5mm on the left side to center the wheel without scrapoing the sprocket against the swing arm. That should do it.
 
Found a local machine shop finally to get my spacers sorted out. Using the gs1100 sprocket carrier on the RF900 5.5 wheel gave me the space I needed to center the wheel without scraping the sprocket bolts on the frame. As soon as I have spacers in hand going to fit it all up, and then I should be able to see where I need to weld the mount for moving the torque arm to the bottom, and a good stable, centered platform to confirm my front sprocket offset (I imagine 5/8). Going to use rear sets with an integrated master cylinder, so no issue with relocating the master.

Back to the motor, paying off my 1230 block and pistons on Friday. Already found 750 oil pump gears, ordered an 1150 filter cover to use with stock 1150 oil cooler I already have and a top end oiler. Ordered my flywheel puller also. I have it down to the cases almost ready to start splitting them.

Now to the big money or "How I spent my 2009 bonus"

Sending the head to Ray for:
New valves all around, 1mm over 28mm valves on the intake side, radius cut and porting. HD springs, and replace anything else that needs it (guides, etc...)

This will be mated with Cam Motion G4 cams .355 lift with adjustable sprockets and an HD chain.

When the crank is out going to have it checked for true, balanced and welded.

Still looking for an HD clutch plate (at less than new APE prices), and potentially a basket as well. I already have some HD springs in hand.

36mm Slingshots already in hand (thanks Kochic). I have ss bolt set for them and new o-rings. I have to get the stage 3 dynojet kit then I can go ahead and tear them down for clean and rebuild.

Got to evaluate if I need to do any of the racer mods on the starter clutch.

Estimate 140 to 150 HP at the wheel.
 
doctorgonzo said:
Found a local machine shop finally to get my spacers sorted out. Using the gs1100 sprocket carrier on the RF900 5.5 wheel gave me the space I needed to center the wheel without scraping the sprocket bolts on the frame. As soon as I have spacers in hand going to fit it all up, and then I should be able to see where I need to weld the mount for moving the torque arm to the bottom, and a good stable, centered platform to confirm my front sprocket offset (I imagine 5/8). Going to use rear sets with an integrated master cylinder, so no issue with relocating the master.

Back to the motor, paying off my 1230 block and pistons on Friday. Already found 750 oil pump gears, ordered an 1150 filter cover to use with stock 1150 oil cooler I already have and a top end oiler. Ordered my flywheel puller also. I have it down to the cases almost ready to start splitting them.

Now to the big money or "How I spent my 2009 bonus"

Sending the head to Ray for:
New valves all around, 1mm over 28mm valves on the intake side, radius cut and porting. HD springs, and replace anything else that needs it (guides, etc...)

This will be mated with Cam Motion G4 cams .355 lift with adjustable sprockets and an HD chain.

When the crank is out going to have it checked for true, balanced and welded.

Still looking for an HD clutch plate (at less than new APE prices), and potentially a basket as well. I already have some HD springs in hand.

36mm Slingshots already in hand (thanks Kochic). I have ss bolt set for them and new o-rings. I have to get the stage 3 dynojet kit then I can go ahead and tear them down for clean and rebuild.

Got to evaluate if I need to do any of the racer mods on the starter clutch.

Estimate 140 to 150 HP at the wheel.
Click to expand...
aint it fun sorting out these wheel issues.you should Look at the rearsets off a new zx-10 easy to mount and look great. just dont find them before me .I bought some crappy ones on E-bay from china that looked great till they showed up oh well 150$ down the tubes.Sounds like your motor is gonna be a handfull.
 
Be glad when the wheel/suspension stuff is behind me not as interesting (to me) as the engine. Has to be done, and hopefully will look good. Not extending the springarm (yet), so gonna be a wheelie machine. If it's too bad, have to go back and extend the arm. I am gonna brace the frame, install a fork brace, and go for mid grade (Ikon probably) shocks. I'm considering blacking the engine ala the 1150, but not sure.
 
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