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riggsracin
Guest
i have a 1982 gs1100g and it has two good coils. i can hook the left one on the right side and it will fire. i just cant get it to fire on the right coil, what should i do?
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G
Guest
Guest
Did you swap the coils? Don't understand what you did exactly.
Are you getting power to the coil?
Are you getting power to the coil?
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cmart45
Guest
coil wont fire left side
coil wont fire left side
I would check the wiring from the ignitor to coil for any breaks are faults,if not that,check ignitor with 1 1/2 volt AA battery to blue and green wires on ignitor side with ignition on and with number 3 and 4 spark plug grounded to head connected to spark plug wires. When connected to batt the number 4 plug should fire,when batt disconnected number 3 plug should fire. Make sure blue wire is connected to positive + and green to neg-.
Good luck!
coil wont fire left side
I would check the wiring from the ignitor to coil for any breaks are faults,if not that,check ignitor with 1 1/2 volt AA battery to blue and green wires on ignitor side with ignition on and with number 3 and 4 spark plug grounded to head connected to spark plug wires. When connected to batt the number 4 plug should fire,when batt disconnected number 3 plug should fire. Make sure blue wire is connected to positive + and green to neg-.
Good luck!
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riggsracin
Guest
ok. my bike was running good. then it stoped fireing on left coil. i put the left coil on the right side using the right sides wires and it still worked. both coils worked on the one side. but neither wold work on left. i cheacked fuses and connecsions? need help asap. bike has accel coils, and a new stator
G
Guest
Guest
You can break it down to wire connections, igniter or crank trigger. Above tells you how to check the igniter.
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riggsracin
Guest
whats the crank trigger? how do u check it?
The crank trigger is a small coil on the right side of the engine. Take off that little plate that says Suzuki or DOHC and you're there. If water runs out or things look bad in there you might have the problem. The small black things are coils that respond to the metal part that passes close to each coil. They produce a small pulse when the engine is running.
Testing takes two forms. You can measure each coil from the ignitor, there is a blue and a green usually. They should read the same, I think it's 130 ohms but I could be wrong. There is a ground connection, so connect the black ohmmeter lead to the engine and the positive to the coil wire under test. Some models may have a ground wire there too but mine doesn't.
Another test involves a 1.5 volt battery. You clip onto a battery, wire it to the input of each of the igniter leads one at a time, and when the key is on connecting the battery to the input should cause a spark. Not easy to do but if the trigger coils check out it's the next thing in the loop.
Last is the spark plug coils. They usually don't go dead, the coils are not super hi performance but they are dependable. The crank triggers go bad, the igniter goes, or the wiring between these parts is damaged.
Look for damaged wires, wires rubbing the frame, melted by exhaust, etc. The best troubleshooting tools are your eyes sometimes.
Testing takes two forms. You can measure each coil from the ignitor, there is a blue and a green usually. They should read the same, I think it's 130 ohms but I could be wrong. There is a ground connection, so connect the black ohmmeter lead to the engine and the positive to the coil wire under test. Some models may have a ground wire there too but mine doesn't.
Another test involves a 1.5 volt battery. You clip onto a battery, wire it to the input of each of the igniter leads one at a time, and when the key is on connecting the battery to the input should cause a spark. Not easy to do but if the trigger coils check out it's the next thing in the loop.
Last is the spark plug coils. They usually don't go dead, the coils are not super hi performance but they are dependable. The crank triggers go bad, the igniter goes, or the wiring between these parts is damaged.
Look for damaged wires, wires rubbing the frame, melted by exhaust, etc. The best troubleshooting tools are your eyes sometimes.
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riggsracin
Guest
ok all the wiring looks to be good. are u saying connect a batter like an AA to the coil is selfand it should fire. allso the fire seemsto be weak on the coil that is firing, still need help thanks alot for what u have did so for guys
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riggsracin
Guest
For some reason now its blowing main fuses
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riggsracin
Guest
Any help? i need help
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riggsracin
Guest
i tested the blue and green wires, they both tested 167 ohms. with the key off. if you leave the key on it will blow a fuse in the main.? still not firing.
OK, the trigger coils are probably not the problem, but popping fuses is. I don't have a wiring diagram for your machine but someone here does, we have everything. I would power just the main fuse, remove the other fuses so we can see what is causing the short. It could still be the igniter, the device that fires the coils. It has the capability to draw a lot of power if something goes wrong inside. Unhook all connectors to it and see if the fuse holds.
If it does, inspect the wiring from the igniter to the coils for damage. Look in the connector and see if a pin is touching another. When we remove things pins get disturbed occasionally.
The igniter takes power from the ignition switch, kill switch in that order and it ends up at the igniter. Inside there are two identical circuits that act as electronic switches controlled by the trigger coils. These circuits power the ignition coils and when the bike fires, they interrupt the circuit, allowing the coil to discharge into the plug. This of course ignites the expensive gasoline waiting for it. A failure inside the igniter could send the 12 volts right to ground, or close to it, causing the fuse to pop after a few minutes. It may be hot, the parts inside use the case for cooling.
After testing the coils by swapping and measuring the trigger coils like you did, the last thing it could be is that igniter. Offer to polish someones bike here for a few years if they sell you one cheap since the dealer will sell it like a bar of solid gold.
If it does, inspect the wiring from the igniter to the coils for damage. Look in the connector and see if a pin is touching another. When we remove things pins get disturbed occasionally.
The igniter takes power from the ignition switch, kill switch in that order and it ends up at the igniter. Inside there are two identical circuits that act as electronic switches controlled by the trigger coils. These circuits power the ignition coils and when the bike fires, they interrupt the circuit, allowing the coil to discharge into the plug. This of course ignites the expensive gasoline waiting for it. A failure inside the igniter could send the 12 volts right to ground, or close to it, causing the fuse to pop after a few minutes. It may be hot, the parts inside use the case for cooling.
After testing the coils by swapping and measuring the trigger coils like you did, the last thing it could be is that igniter. Offer to polish someones bike here for a few years if they sell you one cheap since the dealer will sell it like a bar of solid gold.
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riggsracin
Guest
well im gonna buy a cdi and see if that helps. you do make sense, the cdi could be causing it to pull to much. but i test that fuse slot and its at 11volts, it just getts ot after leaving the key on.
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cmart45
Guest
no left coil fire
no left coil fire
Sounds like a dead short.
250 to 360 ohms on the signal generator test.(should be within this range)
Connect a ohm test meter to the blue and green wires on the side that goes to the signal generator side(behind right cover sitting on bike).
Pull apart the connection first that is right above the battery box that goes through a metal cut out. ( blue + dark green -)
While the bike is running,you should have 12 volts or better @the coil + and negitive to good ground.
Are the wires on the left coils white and orange/white?
I would take the black and white striped ground wires (3) that are connected to the frame near the battery box and connect them with new ring connectors directly to the negitive side of the battery.
Stick with it,you'll figure it out. Process of elimination.
Good luck!
no left coil fire
Sounds like a dead short.
250 to 360 ohms on the signal generator test.(should be within this range)
Connect a ohm test meter to the blue and green wires on the side that goes to the signal generator side(behind right cover sitting on bike).
Pull apart the connection first that is right above the battery box that goes through a metal cut out. ( blue + dark green -)
While the bike is running,you should have 12 volts or better @the coil + and negitive to good ground.
Are the wires on the left coils white and orange/white?
I would take the black and white striped ground wires (3) that are connected to the frame near the battery box and connect them with new ring connectors directly to the negitive side of the battery.
Stick with it,you'll figure it out. Process of elimination.
Good luck!