GS1100g '83 Full Wiring Loom Rebuild

[oohsam]

G'day guys.
Just pulled the wiring loom off the GS, I followed the cables as I disconnected them and labelled them (for the cables which I knew). And removed all the black tape around the loom.

It looks like someone has been here before, and made one hell of a mess....

I'll be simplifying the wiring, and removing a whole lot of stuff that I just dont want/need/hope I dont need.

I'm basically following POSPLAYER's simplified wiring diagram. And then adding the controls...might be a few modifications here and there.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=153727

Nothin like some FRESH CABLE! ohhh Yeah.

 

[posplayr]

G'day guys.
Just pulled the wiring loom off the GS, I followed the cables as I disconnected them and labelled them (for the cables which I knew). And removed all the black tape around the loom.

It looks like someone has been here before, and made one hell of a mess....

I'll be simplifying the wiring, and removing a whole lot of stuff that I just dont want/need/hope I dont need.

I'm basically following POSPLAYER's simplified wiring diagram. And then adding the controls...might be a few modifications here and there.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=153727

Nothin like some FRESH CABLE! ohhh Yeah.

good luck; let me know if you have any issues

 

[oohsam]

Thanks mate!

I've cut the cables to length for what I need based on your diagram. Only confusion I've hit is that my signal generator has 2 plugs.
One set goes to the Ignition coils (which I've cabled up already)

And the other set run into the AC generator. I'm not rewiring that part of the plug, as the connector is in good condition and the cables are very clean.

Your diagram shows 1 plug for the signal generator....If I leave out the part of your diagram of the Signal generator -> ignitor I think it should be ok..

Thoughts ?

 

[oohsam]

Another question.
I'm reusing my old plastic connectors....just for the Fuse box, and the ignitor boxes..

Is there any way to get the metal prong out of the plastic box, or do I have to cut and solder to the existing cable.
I'd prefer to get the metal prong out, as I want to use my fresh new cable for the entire length of the cable...

If anyone has a technique please let me know..I've seen someone slide a metal fork under it and release it, but its not working and I dont want to damage the plastic connector.
cheers.

 

[oohsam]

Thanks mate!

I've cut the cables to length for what I need based on your diagram. Only confusion I've hit is that my signal generator has 2 plugs.
One set goes to the Ignition coils (which I've cabled up already)

And the other set run into the AC generator. I'm not rewiring that part of the plug, as the connector is in good condition and the cables are very clean.

Your diagram shows 1 plug for the signal generator....If I leave out the part of your diagram of the Signal generator -> ignitor I think it should be ok..

Thoughts ?

It's Ok here. I think i've worked that part out. My Ignitor takes 2 sets of plugs, One set goes to the signal generator, which I have left as per OEM, and the other set goes to the coils, which I have fully replaced.

 

[oohsam]

OK. Here's my update.

I've cut, and laid out cables that are required.
I've changed the colours of some of the cables, just due to not being able to get all the colours that are OEM.
I've made a chart of the colours of the cables I've changed, but I've been over the loom about 1000 times now, i basically know each colour off by heart!

I have soldered the joins where a cable is spliced and branches out, and cable tied the loom together temporarily.

I've worked out how to get the metal prongs out of the plastic connectors, so I can re-use the connectors.
Tomorrow i'll be buying the metal prongs and spades that I need, as I didn't purchase those yet.
Then hopefully by tomorrow evening, I'll have a completed wiring loom and i'll hook it up and see if she's all good!

And some pics for all of yall.

My workstation (living room floor, timber soldering iron holder, and cardboard -- so not to drop any solder on the carpet!)

Semi completed Loom...just needs prongs/connectors and some heat shrink.

 

[mforbes]

Another question.
I'm reusing my old plastic connectors....just for the Fuse box, and the ignitor boxes..

Is there any way to get the metal prong out of the plastic box, or do I have to cut and solder to the existing cable.
I'd prefer to get the metal prong out, as I want to use my fresh new cable for the entire length of the cable...

If anyone has a technique please let me know..I've seen someone slide a metal fork under it and release it, but its not working and I dont want to damage the plastic connector.
cheers.

Look on ebay for a little set of tools to remove those clips. Looks like a flat screwdriver and you slip it behind the blade to release the clip. They come in different sizes. I am off to school, but I'll look later for you and send the link. Cheap set, about 8 dollars or so.

 

[mforbes]

You can get the tool here for your connectors. Price went up 15.00. Anyway here is the link. Found this site on BassCliffs website when I was looking to replace connectors. They also sell the vintage connectors if you just want to buy new ones. Might save some time and most of the tips are gold plated. At least mine were. http://www.vintageconnections.com/ Hope this helps. Mike

 

[oohsam]

Thanks guys.
Yeah I saw the vintage connections......I am using generic new connectors for anything that is going to plug INTO the bike. Not the bullet connectors. i really hate those. So they are easy to buy.
The only trouble is getting the connectors for the ignitor and the connectors for the fuse box. I was considering replacing the fuse box, but if its not broke....

So i'll be salvaging those connectors and adding/replacing all other connectors....
Hope that makes sense.

 

[posplayr]

Thanks guys.
Yeah I saw the vintage connections......I am using generic new connectors for anything that is going to plug INTO the bike. Not the bullet connectors. i really hate those. So they are easy to buy.
The only trouble is getting the connectors for the ignitor and the connectors for the fuse box. I was considering replacing the fuse box, but if its not broke....

So i'll be salvaging those connectors and adding/replacing all other connectors....
Hope that makes sense.

Not sure what style fuse box you have, if it is crimp style you can use an acid etch (like navel jelly) to clean the crimped contacts and then solder them. regardless the connections between R/R and battery need to be low impedance.

In the picture below, I acid etched teh corrosion off, washed with water and then soldered the crimps.

 

[oohsam]

regardless the connections between R/R and battery need to be low impedance.

Can you please clarify what you mean by this....I've done some reading on impedance and cables. How Do I ensure that the connections are low impedance? By ensuring that the cables are as short as possible?

 

[posplayr]

Can you please clarify what you mean by this....I've done some reading on impedance and cables. How Do I ensure that the connections are low impedance? By ensuring that the cables are as short as possible?

If you have a crimp style fuse box, the crimps can corrode inside of the fuse box. That causes high resistance (sorry impedance is just a more general term for resistance). Corroded crimps can cause voltage drops (1/2 volt is common).

On the picture I showed, I used some Naval Jelly to dissolve the corrosion and make the copper shiny again. The copper needs to be clean to reduce the resistance and get the solder to stick that you will melt into those crimps.

Most times wire length is not the issue, all the voltage drops are in the connections and especially in the dry crimps(which corrode). I always try to clean them and flow some solder into them if possible

http://www.amazon.com/Henkel-553472-Loctite-Dissolver-16-Ounce/dp/B000C016OC

 

[oohsam]

Ah ok makes sense now. My fusebox takes a 6 plug connector. The terminals on the spades are clean and there is no sign of corrosion so I think it should be ok. however I will clean them just to be sure..

 

[posplayr]

Ah ok makes sense now. My fusebox takes a 6 plug connector. The terminals on the spades are clean and there is no sign of corrosion so I think it should be ok. however I will clean them just to be sure..

The crimps would be inside the fuse box not in the connector. That picture is a crimp style fuse box with the plastic back off.
Each side of the individual fuse holders has that crimp.

In contrast my GS1100ED fuse box is solid brass with no crimps so no need to solder but a cleaning with theh Navel Jelly is still a good idea

 

[oohsam]

OK I understand now. I'll pull the back off the fuse box and have a sticky beak.
Will get some loctite or australian equivalent on the way home!

 

[oohsam]

Ok.
Wiring loom is about 95% finished.

I bought all new connectors from Jaycar (an electrical supply shop here in aussie land).
Got some 4, 3,2 and 6 connectors. the 6 and 4 plugs fit the Ignitor box just fine. The fusebox takes an 8 plug connector, and i can get 8 plug ones anywhere so I'll have to re-use what I got.

On top of this, I've removed all the factory connectors that go to the Ignition barrel (removed redundant wires, ignition barrel is now only a 2 plug connector (Ignition & Battery)

I've added 3 plug for the Stator, female connector hardwired to the bike, and the male connector which plugs in and goes to the R/R.

I've made a new plug for the ignition coils. and I'm reusing the second plug that goes to the AC signal generator as it was in good condition.

I have brand new earth cables, and I have wired an earth along the bike frame so I can pigtail accessories off as they become available (lights, indicators etc etc).

I did a quick trial run after the loom was finished, and the only issue I had was that I confused my Kill switch and start button, was an easy fix, just switched the prongs in the plugs over and Viola.!!

Before firing her up, I tested every point with a multimeter, testing that the relay worked when open, or when part of it was closed. All seemed ok.

WHen i went to fire her up, she didn't fire up. Was scratching my head for about 2 hours testing everything. All looked good. Till i touched the mounting bracket of the Starter relay. Gave me a very strange reading. Didn't look like it was earthed properly. I think there was some corrosion where it bolts into the mount...So i ran a temporary earth directly from the battery to the starter really.
Pushed start...and away she went...

I basically followed PosPlayer's diagram exactly. And it works spot on.

Only issue I have now is that I'm really not happy with my fusebox. Some of the fuses dont go in properly and it looks garbage.
So today i bought a new fuse box, and i will replace it...I'll also run the remaining wires for accessories, for when they arrive to make life easy.

Some pics...

New Goodies...

Finished Loom...95%

New vs Old connectors.

New Plug for the Ignitor.

One question I do have. How do I earth my new fusebox?...The old one had an earth point. This one doesn't seem to have one.

 

[posplayr]

Ok.
Wiring loom is about 95% finished.

One question I do have. How do I earth my new fusebox?...The old one had an earth point. This one doesn't seem to have one.

Looks good and a lot less wires.

Not sure about your fuse box, but it would seem the only reason it needs a ground is for an Aux power/ground connections. If you dont have a pair of terminal screws for Aux then no need for ground.

 

[Colin Green]

That looks a lot less of a mess of wires than the loom I have to work with on Baz. Nicely done

 

[oohsam]

Thanks! Ok i understand about the ground.
I'll hook it up and let u know how It goes. More pics to come!

Yes, the OEM loom has about a squillion wires coming off it and its super complex. They really overcomplicated things back then. I basically have about 6 more wires ontop of this, for headlights, dash/numberplate light, indicators and horn. And they will tap into the earth cable that runs the span of the bike where required.

Geez I've learnt alot on just this little part of the project!

 

[oohsam]

Ok..
So i got my new fusebox....6 way fusebox. Turns out its the same one as suzuki_don's one in this post.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=162962&highlight="brake+upgrade"

I needed to jump the fuses, so that the return signal from ignition would power the accessories. I didn't like the way Suzuki_don did his. I didn't want anything to be exposed on the outside of the fusebox.

So i flipped it over, and with a bit of handy work with the soldering iron, I melter a channel for soem cable. I took 2 lengths of 16ga cable, and striped the plastic seething off, and saturated with solder.
Placed it in the channel and just touched it with the soldering iron making sure each contact was touching.

Then I tested it with my multimeter to make sure there was signal.


I had to cut out the channels in the backing plate, where the my cable now was, as the back wouldn't close flush.

a few cable ties later, and she's done. Bare bones wiring harness is complete.
Just have to go and strip the battery box of its acid/rush infected skeleton and paint it, and work out a place to mount this bad boy.

I decided not to do any accessory wiring until I purchased the accessories as I dont know how many cables i'll need..its a piece of cake now to add accessories. Thanks to yall for your help.

More pics. Enjoy!