GS1100G Cafe Racer

[oohsam]

Hi Guys,
I've been lurking here for a while. I bought my GS a little while ago. Not running.
I've done a ton of work on the bike already, and I got it running along with a brand new custom made wiring loom.
I thought it was about time to get really serious and pull the engine out, get the frame blasted and painted and build this thing up proper.

My plan was to get it all running, registered (it came unregistered) and then strip it down and paint the frame/engine and build it back up again...but I really dont want to do that anymore. So its go time.

Engine was a little hard to get out on my own. Its big and heavy. But I managed using the 'ol tip her on its side trick.
I did realise after I was done that I forgot to drain the oil out of the gearbox...not sure if that will cause me any problems down the track...Hope not...

 

[Guest]

I wondered what you were doing with yours when you posted that thread about the wiring harness, now I see

Make sure you keep us up to date!

I got my house mate to help me getting the 450 engine out as I didn't know about the on the side trick back then. Got him to help me put it back in again because it's only a 450...

 

[oohsam]

Built me an Engine stand on wheels so I can manouvre this heavy engine around while I work on it.

Built in 2 pieces so I dont have to lift the engine to mount it. BOlt one end in, then bolt the other end in, then bolt together. Easy Peasy.
Was fun to make! bit of a pain in the ass..but good experience with my new welder.

 

[Guest]

Damn good idea!!!

I barely managed getting my 450 from the bin I had it upside down on up to the work bench by myself, so no way would I like to try that with an 1100...

 

[Charlie G]

I picked up an 1100g a couple of months back and I'll tag along here and see what your up to. I enjoy making tools for working on my bike, such as your engine stand. Cheers.

Charlie G

 

[Redneck]

That is a nice engine stand. I thought about something similiar for mine but could not spare the cash to by the materials. I will say it makes such a big difference. I had to dead lift the 550 all over the shop. Its a good thing I am so strong. Well at least that I have a strong back.. That will make your life so much easier. Can't wait to see what comes of this project.
Paul

 

[oohsam]

Thanks Redneck!
This engine stand cost me about $40 in materials in total.
And I overbought material.
I almost bought double what I needed, but I like to have extra for other jobs that will def. come in handy.

Its been great. I just wheeled it out to wash the engine b4 i prep for paint stripper and paint. I wouldn't have the freedom if I had this thing on the floor! Not sure how much heavier it is than the 550, but I'm sure its more.

 

[oohsam]

Its update time. I've really stepped it up a notch now. Am very keen to get this build finished.
So I sandblasted the engine. Plugged up the holes, and went for it. Got about 95% of the paint off. If I had my time over again, I would NOT ever sandblast an engine. There is way too much cleanup to prep for paint.
I spent 3 days cleaning the engine to make sure it was tidy enough to paint, and even then it was not 100% grime free, about 95% but thats good enough for me.

Anyway. So the guy at supercheap auto told me the paint I bought (3M engine paint Heatproof) was gloss black. I asked him a few times ensuring I did not want matt black. He said "yes yes its gloss, see the cap, its glossy, that means its gloss." Turns it out was not gloss.
...lol.
But I actually quite liked it. Its not matte, but not gloss, something in between...hard to explain.

Looks unreal....Very happy with it. Lets just hope no sand/grime got into the engine! :/
Time will tell..ha!

Here's a sneak peek of the engine...Since this photo all the metal covers are off, and are getting polished. so hold ya horses, i'lll put up a pic when its done.
(old sparkplugs make excellent plugs for sparkplug holes!)

 

[oohsam]

Also. I got my act together and got rid of those dodgy R6 rearsets and brackets. I was really really really not happy with the way they looked, and was just being damn right lazy.
Since I began this project, I have learnt a heck of alot about my tools and my ability to use them tools....I always shy away from doing this 'properly' because I think I'm not skilled enough, or I could never get a precise enough result as I'm no proffensial.
But now I think I can get a near proffessional result, it just takes alot longer for me than it would someone with greater skills...

So I went to the metal shop today and bought some 3mm flat metal sheet...I also bought myself some GSXR 08 rearsets from ebay (thank you US exchange rate). And made some brackets.
I ended up cutting off the old brackets and fit these puppies.

My welding is still at novice status, but I am much much better than when I started. I always find that I have to grind back some of my welds as my beads flow well then my gun splatters. and i get a little blob...then I have to continue my bead from there.....Its happening less and less as I am able to control the smooth motion but not there yet.
The welds are damn strong and have good bond so I'm happy with that...Looks pretty good if you ask me.
Just needs to be sanded down a little, a bit of cleaning with the dremel, and we're ready to roll.

 

[Guest]

Mate that's lookin' good so far!

The 3M paint is "satin" rather than gloss... the children at Super Cheap are just Woolies checkout chicks who like cars...

I wanted gloss for mine too, but ended up with POR 15 Black Velvet which is very definitely matte, but pretty happy with how it turned out. At least the POR guy knows it's matte

Those rearsets look the bizz too.

 

[Guest]

Great work on the rearsets brackets man! I don't know what you're on about NOT having the skills ?? Looks good.

 

[Flyboy]

Great work on the rearsets brackets man! I don't know what you're on about NOT having the skills ?? Looks good.

Ditto :clap:

 

[mike-s]

The 3M paint is "satin" rather than gloss... the children at Super Cheap are just Woolies checkout chicks who like cars...

HAHAHA oh God you are right about at least 75% of them. There's a couple I've met that are a bit different to that mould.

P.S. This is looking like a fantastic build. You may be "Novice" with the welder, but you still can do a good job.

 

[oohsam]

hahaha...Thanks guys....really appreciate the nice comments.

Supercheap is best if you know what you need and dont need to talk to anyone! Which is my case most of the time, except the paints were locked away.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Subscribed!

 

[Guest]

Yeah I was gobsmacked once when I went to Supercheap at Enoggera and got served by a girl who *knew what she was talking about!!!*

They got me today here at Keperra though, walked in and the whole shop had been reorganised since I was last up there, couldn't find a damn thing! Of course the staff didn't know where anything was either

Anyways, the build's looking good, moving along nicely now

 

[Guest]

Supercheap is best if you know what you need and dont need to talk to anyone!

While we're on the subject of bitching about Supercheap...

I went there once and asked the staff for what is called a "Liquid rear window demister repair kit."
Girl: "We don't have that."
Me: "I think I've seen it a few weeks ago somewhere here at this shop."
Girl: "I don't think we've ever had anything like that."
Me: "I'm pretty sure I've seen it here and that that's what it was called, could you possibly check?"
Girl: (checks the computer) "Sorry Sir, can't find it. But let me check with the manager, we may be able to order it in for you.
Girl: (Calls the manager on the phone and afterwards says to me): "No, we definitely don't have that product nor can we get it in, I'm very sorry".
Me: "OK, thank you."

I spend next ten minutes browsing the store and sure enough I find it, a small bottle of copper like fluid called "Liquid rear window demister repair kit".

I take it to the counter and show it to the girl. Without even a blink she says "Oh... So, do you want to take it?".
Me: "I sure do want to take it, but you may want to let your manager know what products he's got in store and he may want his staff get aquainted with the stocked products too".

DUH!

 

[mike-s]

Yikes.

My local supacheap went up in a fire a year ago. That sucks as the old hands at the store were great/the exception to the rule i mentioned earlier (especially the hispanic lady whom worked there full time for the 8+ years i have lived here) and they always had something intelligent to say to help *sigh*.

There's a repco a bit further away, not quite as thorough / random with what they stock as the supacheap was, but still the staff are pretty good too. Even the guys that work at repco complain about "well we used to have that, but we don't stock it any more". They've gone from a Mitre10 to a bunnings of auto parts.

 

[oohsam]

Update time :
All the silver bits of the engine have been polished. I'll put up some pics of them later...
Bike has been broken down into pieces for powder coater to give it some nice Powder.

I have 2 questions...

1 - When powdercoating, how do they ensure that the powdercoat doesnt gum up all the threads on the bike (swingarm, engine mount threads etc)...Should I mark out what needs to be 'masked up'...

2 - The compliance plate that is on the neck of the bike is sort of riveted in (but its not a pop rivet) looks like a closed pop rivet, does that need to come off before sandblast and powdercoat. I obviously need this plate, but can they mask over it or shoudl I remove it...If i remove it, do i just pop rivet it back on? and if so, will the pop rivets interfere with the tripple tee neck?...

Here are some pictures to keep you entertained :

New mini indicator switches :

New headlight :

My new sandblaster

Clubmans :

Indicator switch on clubmans

New petcock!:

My new Dash:

 

[Flyboy]

I like all the new goodies, going to look good whe it all comes together.
As for the powder coating, it is best to screw old bolts into the threaded holes to stop the powder from gumming them up, just remove when you get the frame back, things like the steering head can just be taped off, and don't forget the hole for the rear brake lever shaft, it fits snug in there and if you get powder in there you will have to spend a whole bunch of time cleaning it out.
Some people just chase the threads clean with a tap when they get the frame back.

I would imagine you could remove the two little pins holding the plate on without too much trouble, and yes, just pop rivet it back on, it won't interfere with anything, not sure what your law says about having it, as the frame number is stamped on the neck anyway, I know my plate has been gone for years, no problems with the law here.