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GS1100G Cafe Racer

  • Thread starter Thread starter oohsam
  • Start date Start date
So, I thought the seat needed some more work, so I made a backrest. I think it looks much better now. Was sceptical about making a separate piece however I think it came up well.
There are Bolts in the back of it already so I can just put a nut on the otherside, and presto! stays in place :)

Let me know what u think (try and imagine the tank is black with a red pinstripe in the knee dents....
!

244.jpg


245.jpg


246.jpg
 
Hmmmm... nice work on the seat, but something's not quite right between the tank and seat pan colour and the chrome front guard... are you planning on changing them at some point?
 
I as about to mention the back rest and whamo you post it up. Looks good.

Pete looks like the tank is primered, so I suspect paint is coming soon.

Paul

edit: okay first photo looked primered then saw the shiney white and black stripe in second photo. I would agree with paint job change how bout black on the white and red strip instead of black would flow with seat.

Paul

I also happen to have a powdercoated glossy black fender...
 
Hmmmm... nice work on the seat, but something's not quite right between the tank and seat pan colour and the chrome front guard... are you planning on changing them at some point?


hahaha Pete, I am convinced you dont read my posts and go straight to my pictures, you picture lover, you!! lol..

Yeah It was a temp coat to test my paint skills a while back, the seat is getting a coat of black as is the tank then some red pin striping.
As for the fender, will most likely remain unless i decided otherwise. !

Thanks Guys :)
 
Hey, I have a Vapor on my GS as well, but I'm having issues with the tach signal bouncing. How do you have it hooked up? Looks nice!
 
Hey GearHead,
Yes I'm having the same trouble with the RPM bouncing. Cant get a steady rpm reading.
I did talk to trail tech they recommended the following.

1. With the power cable, ensure that you dont tap into another cable, as it will pick up the signal, go direct to the battery. Some people have hooked up a 9Volt battery to it to totally eliminate the tach bounce and has worked.
2. Try PPR setting of 2 instead of 1. This may also help.

I am yet to try these out (as its not high on my priority list, but I am almost 100% sure this will work) many ppl have reported it working in the past.

Let me know how u go.

Cheers
 
Hmm, that makes a lot of sense. I need to go in there anyway and clean up the harness where I got rid of the backlight wires and such, so I'll run wires directly to the battery then. I currently have it wired to one of the backlight leads, so it's probably not a very clean reference signal. That also would explain why the tach bounces more when I'm on the brakes or the indicators are on, hah. I thought it was a grounding issue the whole time.
 
hahaha Pete, I am convinced you dont read my posts and go straight to my pictures, you picture lover, you!! lol..

Yeah It was a temp coat to test my paint skills a while back, the seat is getting a coat of black as is the tank then some red pin striping.
As for the fender, will most likely remain unless i decided otherwise. !

Thanks Guys :)

Hahahaa I promise I do read *some* things :p

Sounds like a nice plan to me though...
 
Thanks mate!
I just spent a whole 12 hours working on the bike (12 hours straight!)
Tieing up some lose ends.

Hooked up the horn
Fitted OEM clutch cover gasket (no oem one was leaking!...)
Fabricated mounts for the battery (to go under the seat)
Drilled out the seat to mount the seat pan
Welded two nuts on the frame for the seat to bolt into (shoulda done it b4 powder coat, but was very small and hidden)
Fixed up the choke rod (i had the choke and spring in the wrong spot
Installed choke cable with new choke mechanisim

Installed 140 main jets from 142 (bike was rich)
Took her out for a spin, Started right up first crank (on choke) warmed her up and took her out for a decent ride....)

Pulls alot harder with the 140 main jets and is very very smooth through all gears. Very happy with it. Its pretty much ready to go in for a rwc test. Might go this week. See how we go!
 
Wow!
That looks brilliant, mate.
Can't wait to see it complete.

2:41am? Oh, 3:41am your time :D

Glad to see you posting Leigh, haven't heard from you for a while! You need to get the fat girl thread up and running again... making her the not so fat girl... ;)

Thanks mate!
I just spent a whole 12 hours working on the bike (12 hours straight!)
Tieing up some lose ends.

Hooked up the horn
Fitted OEM clutch cover gasket (no oem one was leaking!...)
Fabricated mounts for the battery (to go under the seat)
Drilled out the seat to mount the seat pan
Welded two nuts on the frame for the seat to bolt into (shoulda done it b4 powder coat, but was very small and hidden)
Fixed up the choke rod (i had the choke and spring in the wrong spot
Installed choke cable with new choke mechanisim

Installed 140 main jets from 142 (bike was rich)
Took her out for a spin, Started right up first crank (on choke) warmed her up and took her out for a decent ride....)

Pulls alot harder with the 140 main jets and is very very smooth through all gears. Very happy with it. Its pretty much ready to go in for a rwc test. Might go this week. See how we go!

Mate that's awesome news! Hopefully you can find a RWC guy like the guy I got. He seemed to know walking in what he was looking at and it was real easy. Some basic checks and I had my safety certificate in my hand.

Glad to see you got the little bits sorted, they always seem to take the most time.
 
OH NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I took the bike to the shops to get a bulb for the indicator. When I got back I looked at the bike and there was smoke pouring from under the seat...

Had a look the battery was bubling and leaking fluid and lots of smoke.
I grabbed the fire extinguisher just in case but threw some water on it to cool it all down.
It came down quickly enough and i pulled it off...the battery is fried...(still gives power though! haha..

I think this is a R/R problem. Too much current going to the battery.
The fuse should have blown, but the fuse is 30A.....It was blowing 15A fuses and i was told to put a bigger fuse in as its normal to run 30A between the R/R and the battery.
Looks like there was a problem after all...

The R/R is a honda Sh232 one. Time to do some research. And now i need a new battery. No Roadworthy this week as I thought :(
 
Indeed. Very happy nothing else was damaged. Just have to do some research now and work out what actually happend...

Fried my brand new sycl Battery...darn it.
 
Sorry to hear the bad news mate. I think my bike had the same issue awhile ago as it had the acid burn marks down the rear of the engine.

Are the sealed batteries the best for not leaking acid.

If you want I have an old Rectifier/Regulator with the wires cut you can have. I am unsure what condition it is in. How do you check them again.
 
Ah thanks ged...
Its my own fault, I assumed the R/R i bought was in good working order as per sellers info, didn't really do a proper test.
So not only do I lose a 100 dollar r/r, but my 200 dollar battery!

Its a deep cycle battery, allows for tiny batteries with massive crank. Their website says under no condition will they catch fire, so thats a good thing! lol but its well and truly stuffed.
 
oh PS. Thanks for the offer, I have a spare one (original tiny one) that I will hook up to test if it works, but I'll be buying a new one (probably brand new this time)..
 
Mate that's a real bugger! I got a cheap dodgy Taiwanese or Chinese one off eBay that was something like $16 or $17 including postage and so far so good.

It's at least a 6 wire and is a bit bigger than the old knackered Suzuki one.

I'll just keep an eye on it until I get my voltage monitor hooked up and then I can monitor it as I ride.

Bugger on the battery too! Was that a Shorai one? Can't remember what you got now exactly but I know it was a good one...
 
I would carefully check all of the wires/plugs in your harness for signs melting also.

Daniel
 
Hey Daniel,
Yeah I did that already. Lucky for me, it was only the cable from the R/R to the battery that was a little hot...didn't even melt. It was a short ride and I didn't tap in the R/R to the fusebox, just ran an inline fuse.

I posted this problem in the electrical area, and it turns out the fault is mine.
With the Honda SH232, I didn't tap in the sense wire. I thought, this just tells the unit when the bike is on or off. I didn't realise it uses the cable as a guage to how much current is passing through the system and adjusts as required.
So the system thought it was getting nothing, hence why it kept pushing current through. Once I plugged it in to the brake light, it instantly stabilised at 14.6 volts through all RPM's.
Im spewing I didn't test this earlier.

So I lost a 200 dollar battery in the cause of my stupidity, but could have been worse!
I found a guy selling the same battery locally so I'm picking that up tonight.
Should be able to go in for RWC tomorrow.
:)
 
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