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Gs1100g won't start

  • Thread starter Thread starter Marine36
  • Start date Start date
M

Marine36

Guest
I ran bike into garage approx 2 months ago to do some winter maintenance. I did the following things:

New rear tire
New handlebars
adjust floats to keep gas off floor
new intake pipes and orings
adjust valves
replace coils (one failed)
replace plugs
replace wires
change oil

Now the &*%$ thing won't start. Ran excellent till coil failed and ran well on two cylinders when it did.

Could the gas be bad after 60 something days ( I added stabil)? Could the choke and throttle cable adjustments be keeping it from starting? I never checked these after new bars. Could I have gotten it out of time adjusting valves?
 
Prime the bowls.
Do the rounds. Check spark. Check and see if the plugs are wet with gas.
 
Just a thought, maybe it wasn't a bad coil but something else in your ignition. Could you tell us the steps you used to decide the coil was bad.
Are you getting any spark now ?. Out of adjustment valves won't stop the motor from running usually but does make it harder to start.
So give us some more info, what have you checked since it stopped starting.
 
Marine36 said:
I ran bike into garage approx 2 months ago to do some winter maintenance. I did the following things:

New rear tire
New handlebars
adjust floats to keep gas off floor
new intake pipes and orings
adjust valves
replace coils (one failed)
replace plugs
replace wires
change oil

Now the &*%$ thing won't start. Ran excellent till coil failed and ran well on two cylinders when it did.

Could the gas be bad after 60 something days ( I added stabil)? Could the choke and throttle cable adjustments be keeping it from starting? I never checked these after new bars. Could I have gotten it out of time adjusting valves?
Click to expand...

Perhaps the coils weren't installed correctly. Did the new bars loosen the cables or tighten them up ? Does the throttle and choke cable operate their respective mechanism's freely ? Are you sure you adjusted the valves properly ? I don't think a nice valve adjustment would knock it out time. Valve adjustments are like candy to these bikes.

I'd drain the gas and put in some fresh with a splash of Seafoam.

Just throwing out some ideas........:)
 
I had the wire to my kill switch break one time. Took forever to figure that out. It was just a small wire and the break was inside the switch. Must of broke it when I removed the switch to swap handlebars. Just another thing to check.
 
To answer one of your main question: No, adjusting vavles would not cause it to "go out of time". Well, assuming you changed the shims by just depressing the bucket and removing replacing the shims. You didnt take out the cams did you?

You try starting it with petcock on PRIme?

What have you done to verify if ignition working now? Check spark at plugs?

.
 
Used multimeter to check bad coil. Secondary open.
Spark at plugs - nice blue
I had voltage issue- dead battery. Now fully charged. Plan to do coil relay mod.
Have not been able to verify gas at plugs. Float bowls are filling.
I put wider taller bars on and then routed the cables where they were supposed to be not were the PO had them.
Bike has pods and 4-1 installed by PO.
 
All good responses.

Start with the basics.

Do you have compression on each cylinder? This isn't a real compression test as the engine is cold, but it will give you a ballpark idea if your valves are adjusted properly.

Now spark - got it? Easy test -just grab the wire between your thumb and forefinger..... If you perform a spastic dance you're good.

Now if you have those 2 and add gasoline - the bike should start.
 
Marine36 said:
only 9.6 volts at coils is that bad?
Click to expand...


From the stator papers.......

We'll start with everything, including the engine, switched off. Select DC Volts on the multimeter, if it's not an auto-ranging meter be sure to select an appropriate range (up to 20 V on most devices), and determine the potential difference between the plus and minus poles of the battery. If the battery is OK and fully charged, this should be something in the proximity of 13 Volts
Now we start the engine and have it idle. Be sure to leave lights and everything off. On idle, not too much will happen, since the stator simply isn't revolving fast enough to generate enough current. Depending on the bike, you may see it rise a little, to something like 13,5 V or so.
Now we rev it up to a reasonable speed, say, something like 4000 RPM. Now you should see full charge, somewhere in the range of 13,9 and 14,5 Volt
 
yes i know the first time i set the valves on a sbc i tried doing it with it not running. and my car wouldnt even start the valves were hanging open leaving no compresion.
 
if you were talking to me i had hydrolic lifters and i had them set way to tight.
 
I guess I should tell you all that it started first turn of the key after the coil relay mod.:D
 
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