GS1100GL Project

[scaylabs]

So, no one cares if I mod an "L" a little bit, right?

This is what she looked like the day of the purchase (note the gas dripping on the floor):

I got a new petcock, rebuilt and painted the carbs (followed renobruce's tips, thanks!), adjusted the valves and got new boots and orings. She starts right up and runs good enough for a short drive around the neighborhood. My intention was not to get her perfectly tuned at this time (hence no sync yet) but to get a baseline in stock form before I start modding and later wondering why it won't start after changing a million things at once.

This is my most probably incomplete To Do list:
-install shorter rear shocks -DONE
-lower front end, rebuild forks.
-install solo seat. ORDERED
-install new custom rear fender, cleanup struts.
-install APE pods
-have new straight exhaust made, install (hopefully) quiet baffle.
-wrap exhaust.
-install Dinojet kit.
-rebuild brakes, new SS lines.
-remove old instruments, install mini tach and speedo, make mini led bar (afholderman's idea link).
-new wiring, upgrade ignition, fusebox, relay mod.
-new handlebar, don't know which one yet.

I'm tired after just writing the list...

 

[scaylabs]

This bike was my inspiration:

It's an Intruder, but at least it's a Suzuki and a shaftie!

This is how the bike sits now, with the rear lowered 2":

I'm going to clean up the ugly welds on the fender struts and install a new one piece fender.
This is a very badly done rendering of what the rear should look like:

 

[scaylabs]

Anyone know what kind of travel I can expect with the MDI 32-1151 shocks I installed? They are rated at 200kgs/440lbs. Running them at the highest preload setting.

80% solo riding (200lbs), 20% two up (300lbs).

I want to keep the new fender as close as possible to the tire with no rubbing.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

I LOVE IT!
Of course I may be a little biased as I am reworking an "L" of my own, I'll be watching for updates so keep 'em comin! Feel free to visit my build and offer suggestions as we go down this same road.

 

[scaylabs]

Finally some updates!!

I wrapped the exhaust and installed shorty mufflers (painted black, chrome originally), installed APE pods, Dynojet kit, new tach cable and seals (leaking oil) and new accelerator cable.

Check out the new sound!: http://youtu.be/N5ks_KFlJJs I love it!!!

The seat is not attached yet, waiting for a fender first.

Still to do: rear fender, rebuild forks, rebuild brakes, change instruments for mini tach and speedo, change handlebar, turn signals and brake light.

 

[Graham]

Good sound.

 

[scaylabs]

Good sound.

Thanks, I'm liking it too!

 

[scaylabs]

The new rear fender is on the way, should only be a couple days.
This is the one: http://www.debrix.com/PhotoDetails.asp?ShowDesc=N&PhotoNumber=2&ProductCode=50-0611-VT

I put the original fender back on for a quick pic to see what the general line of the bike will look like:

I'm liking it! You have to imagine different bars on it as well .

The brace on top of the fender will go, and so will the end of the fender stays. The new fender will probably be a couple inches shorter as well.

 

[Tim Tom]

Nice looking L and i'm not usually in to that kind of thing . Think it way look better with side covers though, not a fan of seeing ugly electrics and stuff. Maybe make up a polished one, that would be cool.

 

[scaylabs]

Definitely Tim! Either side covers, or really cleaning up the ugly electrics are on the to-do list.

 

[scaylabs]

New handlebar is on!

It's an EMGO reproduction of a pre-'71 Triumph Boneville. ebay link

Fender is in and already trimmed to length. Mounting it tomorrow so expect more pictures soon!

 

[scaylabs]

New fender is fitted and temporarily on:

 

[Go Mifune]

Looks real good. It is coming together nice.

 

[scaylabs]

Wow, I haven't updated in a while, sorry!

I installed new fork seals, as well as Progressive springs:

I stripped the tank and gave it a coat of primer to hold until I'm ready to paint. I primed the fender as well:

I rebuilt and painted all brake calipers and master cylinders (pic later). I replaced the inspection window on the front MC (which I'll have to repaint now):

SS lines are here, waiting to be cut to length and installed.


I removed everything electrical:

I thinned the wire loom by a fair bit (pic coming)


Made a tray for all the electronics:

Honda RR is on the way, as well as a new A123 battery to go in the tray.


I "stuffed" the seat stays with a piece of 1/2" pipe to decrease the ID, so I can install the bar-end turn signals I have planned:

It's a pretty tight fit but I'll give it a couple spots with the welder just in case.
Here are the blinkers:

Frame is getting painted next.

I think that's it for now, getting closer!

 

[scaylabs]

Well, how do you like this for timing, the battery just got here!

And no, my hand is not gigantic, the battery is really tiny!

Oh, one more pic I forgot:

The new mini tach and speedo in position. I have to make new brackets so they sit straight.

 

[scaylabs]

2002 Kawazaki Ninja RR is here:

Getting ready to give the frame a makeover:

Before:

After two coats of "rust converter"

Semi-gloss black is next for tomorrow.

 

[Go Mifune]

That battery is tiny. Will it have enough juice to start that beast?

 

[scaylabs]

That battery is tiny. Will it have enough juice to start that beast?

It should be fine as long as the bike is properly tuned and starts quickly. Definitely not good for testing.

Here are the specs:
Voltage: 13.2V
Capacity: 4.6AH
Configuration: 4S2P, 8 cells
Cell Model: 26650
135 CCA

The Dimensions:
Lenght: 106 mm
Width: 53 mm
Height: 72 mm

Weight: 1.44 LBS

 

[ChicagoBob]

Can these A123-type batteries really be safely charged from the bike's system?

 

[scaylabs]

From the research I've done, yes, but I'm not an authority on the subject. Probably someone like Posplayr should be the guy to ask to get a definite (technical) answer.
There are many people using them on motorcycles though, with no ill effects as far as I could tell.