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gs1150e

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
This is bit off subject but in anticipation of spring I was getting the 1150 ready to run over the weekend. Pulled the lower fairing pieces to get at the carbs, valve cover, ect..
Had to walk across the garage to get something and when I turned to come back noticed that the bike looked really good with just the upper fairing in place, kind of the bullet thing, almost like the 1000S.
So I looked over the brackets and decided the lower fairing bracket didn't do that much to support the upper piece. So I pulled lower bracket and painted the lower edge of the upper fairing, the part that the lower hangs over and attaches to, flat black and it pretty much becomes invisible with the black engine and shadows.
Think I'll leave this way for a while.
 
pjackson,

I have a feeling you also will end up with an E-model... :wink:
 
windscreen for ES

windscreen for ES

Mookie, you could also try Gustafson screens (spelling?) I have a dark smoke one on my 84 ES.
Doze.
 
kz said:
Dink said:
Karl the mighty GSX1100EF that we know and love is called either a GS1150e(unfaired) or a GS1150 es in north american markets.
Dink
Click to expand...

Dink,

In Sweden, the model you have on your avatar, if 1984, is called GSX 1100 ES and the model I have (the converted one) is called GSX 1100 EF.

E means basic model, think the E stands for electronic ignition, but not sure
ES means Sport Fairing
EF means Full Fairing


And yes we love them here too :lol:
Click to expand...

Karl mine is a GSX1100 EFF(85 model) built 9/84 mine is fully faired the lower is just removed in my avitar( it fell of the stand in my driveway :? ).
E means chain final drive.
F means full fairing
E,F,G is the model year E being 84 F being 85 G being 86
Guess what I think this model is loved no matter where we are :wink:
Dink
BTW I started work today for a Suzuki dealer.
 
Dink,

thanks for your fill ins and good luck at your new job at the Suzuki dealer. :D
 
Just to let you know I got my windscreen from zero gravity the other day (took about a week) and it looks great. Haven't mounted it yet as the bike is in pieces but looks like it will bolt right up. $69.95 plus $20.50 postage all us funds. Don't know about the border costs but I say it's well worth it. Years ago I priced a factory one and it was $320.

Gerry
 
I got a new screen from ZG for Christmas for an 1150 fairing I'll be mounting on my 700. I went for the light fluorescent blue. They co,e in 6 colors plus clear if I remember right. Quality stuff.
 
Billy Ricks said:
I got a new screen from ZG for Christmas for an 1150 fairing I'll be mounting on my 700. I went for the light fluorescent blue. They co,e in 6 colors plus clear if I remember right. Quality stuff.
Click to expand...

A buddy of mine had the blue one on his GSXR and it looked great. I bought the smoked one, blue was my second choice.

Gerry
 
Dink said:
Karl there is,
1: Be certain of carburettor synchronisation, spot on not near enough!
2: Replace the rubber engine mount bushes in the front engine mounts!
3: Retorque all engine mounts regularly to the correct torque specs!
torque specs are:
50.5-63.5 lb-ft for the front and rear upper mount bolts.
40.0-47.5 lb-ft for the rear lower mount bolt.
36.0-43.5 lb-ft for the lower mount bolts under the front of the motor.
Dink
Click to expand...

Thanks for your inputs Dink,

The expression "spot on not near enough" now really has a meaning to me...

I followed your suggestions (except for the replacements of the rubber bushes).

I cleaned the carbs and thought that I didn't have to dismount them from the mounting bracket that holds the carb together, so I didn't clean the choke jets.

That was mistake one, because the bike started only on cyl. 2 and 3, then cold, then it was warm it ran fine. :cry:

Now the big fault diagnosis started, I thought it had something to do with the ignition, but NO it was the carbs...

next step was dismounting the carbs again, cleaning the whole carbs again and back on the bike with them.

This time the bike starts as it should, but didn't run perfect at 2000 rpm, I didn't know if it has been there the last time. :cry:

Now, (after troubleshooting) I realized that one of the rubber boots was leaking.

After fixing the rubber boot the bike runs fine. :D

The vibrations have decreased a lot after the steps I have taken, but I am not completely satisfied. :D :D

I still have to do the carb sync, and I have heard that if you put extra weight into your handlebars, the vibrations could decrease from that. I will put out the question in the forum.

As a conclusion I have realized that the carbs have to be handled accurately and trying to take short cuts only ends up with that you have to do the job over again.

A tiny little leak or one clogged little jet really makes a difference how your bike runs and don't try to take short cuts = "spot on not near enough" :roll:
 
1150

1150

I have an 84 ES and an 85 E and I love both. The ES is 99% stock. The E is set up to carve corners as well as can be expected from a heavy bike with a long wheel base. Both are a blast.
 
Re: 1150

Re: 1150

Robert Corrie said:
The E is set up to carve corners as well as can be expected from a heavy bike with a long wheel base. Both are a blast.
Click to expand...

*** What do you mean by that ???

Adam M.
 
Karl, sorry I`m attaching it your post, but what this electronic panel under your name means?

Adam M.
 
mmedyna9629 said:
Karl, sorry I`m attaching it your post, but what this electronic panel under your name means?

Adam M.
Click to expand...

It's the electronic board of the tacho for my GSX1100/GS1150 1984.

I figured out how to fix bouncing problem with the tacho and after that I placed one of the scanned pictures as my avatar.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/viewtopic.php?t=1523&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/viewtopic.php?t=2337

Actually i was a little bit proud of myself that time.............

BTW:

I put a lot of effort in to solving that problem....... :roll:
 
I thought yesterday I was going to have to email you for directions on how to fix a tach on my 1150. It started bouncing around, but I got lucky and found it was only the harness plug that had come loose. :-)

Earl


kz said:
It's the electronic board of the tacho for my GSX1100/GS1150 1984.
Click to expand...
 
Earl,

Glad to here it was an easy fix to your tacho. :D

BTW:

My tacho is still working after the capacitor change :D :D :D
 
I'm keeping my fingers crossed. :-)

Earl

kz said:
Earl,

Glad to here it was an easy fix to your tacho. :D

BTW:

My tacho is still working after the capacitor change :D :D :D
Click to expand...
 
Mine is too :D now I need to see if the Katana one is similar as it's tacho is pulling the same stunts the Tractor was. BTW if it is I will be sure to post to let everyone else know.
Dink
 
Good thinking Dink, as I just happen to be in the market for collecting info on 1150's :-) :-) :-)


Dink said:
Mine is too :D now I need to see if the Katana one is similar as it's tacho is pulling the same stunts the Tractor was. BTW if it is I will be sure to post to let everyone else know.
Dink
Click to expand...
 
Made the "hot sync" (and burned my right arm on the exhaust pipe) of my carbs, cyl 1 had to be adjusted, the bike is much better especially in the low range.

But little difference of the vibrations, however, the vibrations are much less now than last year, and probably whithin spec now.

As Dink (and you others) wrote, the vibrations dependes of a lot of small things you have to take care of.

BTW:

I keeped the sand into the handlebars, because it made some improvemenet.


There are two things you never should do dressed with a T-shirt, ironing your shirts and sync your carbs...........
 
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