• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

GS1150ES Dies When Throttle Opened

Rob S - yup that's the next thing to do. I have to sort out a chain first. This bike came with one that was completely rusted up.

I'm from "across the pond" not "down under" :)

Greetings
 
Rob S - yup that's the next thing to do. I have to sort out a chain first. This bike came with one that was completely rusted up.

I'm from "across the pond" not "down under" :)

Greetings

I'm not fond of shafts, to put it mildly (lots of shaft riders around here).

The U.K.?

We "colonists" are doing fine, and we love the Queen!:D

PS Thanks for the Beatles. And the Stones. And...
 
Last edited:
When checking the float height the calipers should be on the part of the float where the metal arm is attached. You are checking on the wrong spot. That would explain why you have to bend the tang so much.
 
Sounds good, are you watching a different video then I am ? It sounds like one of the pilot jets or passages is clogged up, its only running on 3 holes
 
If it won't idle without choke then I'd put money on the intermediate jets being clogged. Sometimes a dipping won't cure them. I've had success using a single strand of copper wire from a 10 gauge roll and thorough use of brake cleaner.
 
Teamdar - this is contrary to everything I have seen on these forum before and the manuals or are you describing it incorrectly?

Float.jpg


Greetings
 
Katarat - you are right. This is the first proper run of this engine in what must be years (I have only just acquired this bike). I am sure I have a long way to go with tuning it correctly. Valves, mixture and sych all to be done. Those carbs are spotless inside and have new main and idle jets.

I will get there in the end.

Greetings
 
Teamdar - this is contrary to everything I have seen on these forum before and the manuals or are you describing it incorrectly?

Float.jpg


Greetings
Richard, I stand corrected. In your photo it shows that you are doing it correct. I have a factory Suzuki 1150 manual that shows the calipers at the step in the float above the one that your photo shows. I have never seen the tang having to be bent to the extreme that you had to.
 
I have never seen the tang having to be bent to the extreme that you had to.

i cant help thinking there is something fishy here as well. 2mm is a LOT of adjustment to make. Look at the angle of the float in Richards earlier pic, compared to the angle of the float in the manual pic.
Richards float seems to be at a much steeper angle to obtain the correct setting.
wrong floats or wrong needle valve assembly fitted maybe?
 
i cant help thinking there is something fishy here as well. 2mm is a LOT of adjustment to make. Look at the angle of the float in Richards earlier pic, compared to the angle of the float in the manual pic.
Richards float seems to be at a much steeper angle to obtain the correct setting.
wrong floats or wrong needle valve assembly fitted maybe?

Plus one. Those float tabs seem a heck of a lot more bent than on any carb I've ever seen.

I'm guessing wrong needle valves.
 
EDIT: video seems to indicate the bike running on three cylinders, not four.

Float height for the 1150 is supposed to be 1mm lower than for the other BS carb bikes - 21.4mm.

If the weight of the float is compressing the float needle spring, I'd replace the needles.

Measuring fuel level is the proper way to assure the floats are set right. You can measure the floats all day long, but it's the fuel level that's critical, not float height.
 
Last edited:
Richard, if you are measuring as per the photo you posted it looks like you are measuring on the wrong spot, according to the manual photo it shows the measure point as being the flat top of the step (because its upside down) part of the float. (The float needs to displace some fluid before floating) That tang is at an extreme angle, are you able to compare your needle with an oem part?

I had some of this on that little green T125 stinger in my conservatory with a non oem carb kits I bought, the needle was a different length to the original.
 
Teamdar - well you could indeed be right. That photo was from a GS850/GS1100 manual I think. The GS1150 (or GSX1100 as it was called in the UK) may well have a different set up. I would be interested to see that.

Greetings
 
Tatu - you could well be right (you usually are EDIT: always are). It did seem odd having to bend those tangs so far. I need to take a better look at the needles themselves.

But the carbs are back on again. Managed to take the bike up the road and back. Still lots of work to do on it.

Went on the Easter Egg run to Whitstable today on the GS1100 with over 300 bikes. It was 20 deg C and a fun day. We drove past your place too.

Greetings
 
Last edited:
Nessism - spot on. I am going to set up a float bowl drain plug tube and do it for real next time the carbs come off.

Greetings
 
Carbs - Redone - Now Major Oil Leak

Carbs - Redone - Now Major Oil Leak

I replaced the needle valves in the carbs and this gave far better position for the float tangs.

P1110144.jpg


P1110150.jpg


Now the float tangs are more horizontal:

P1110139.jpg


P1110140.jpg


When they used to look like this:

P1110149.jpg


Both of these tang positions resulted in the same float heights but I am guessing that now the bowls will fill much more with these new needle valves.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pOR3AQiu3so/U6KpWdSKMoI/AAAAAAAAIy8/jmd9T7fm32I/s1600/P1110152.jpg

(There caliper was level with the rounded part or shoulder of the black plastic float but the camera angle doesn't show this).

So does it all work? I put them back on the bike and this happens:

http://youtu.be/4b3sP4_FAMc

Greetings
 
Nessism - spot on. I am going to set up a float bowl drain plug tube and do it for real next time the carbs come off.

Greetings

No, the better test is to do it while the engine is running, at idle with the choke off.

All four carbs at the same time is best, so you can compare how they all move.
 
Back
Top