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GS250 twin choke enrichener rpm

  • Thread starter Thread starter brad020
  • Start date Start date
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brad020

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My bike seems to rev too high with the enrichener on, will go over 4000rpm. Is this normal? It is also very sensitive; enrichener seems to have "off" or "on" without much in between. If I keep my hand on the enrich knob I can modulate rpm by making slight adjustments every couple of seconds. This keeps the revs to what I consider a comfortable warm-up without waking up the kids/ neighbors.

I believe the bike is (comfortably) rich in the idle circuit, it idles/ runs pretty well cold without enrichener after just a minute warming up.

GS250T, oiled foam pods, stock exhaust, downsized idle air jets, upsized idle fuel jets, stock needle & main jetting.

Just wondering if other twins reach excessively high revs while enriched or what might be typical behavior. Thanks.
 
Mine too is a little cold blooded.
I can tap the choke knob down to 3K and let it warm. Takes a few mins.
If I pull the choke all the way out it will idle around 4K or so.
Mine is stock.
 
brad020 said:
My bike seems to rev too high with the enrichener on, will go over 4000rpm. Is this normal? It is also very sensitive; enrichener seems to have "off" or "on" without much in between. If I keep my hand on the enrich knob I can modulate rpm by making slight adjustments every couple of seconds. This keeps the revs to what I consider a comfortable warm-up without waking up the kids/ neighbors.

I believe the bike is (comfortably) rich in the idle circuit, it idles/ runs pretty well cold without enrichener after just a minute warming up.

GS250T, oiled foam pods, stock exhaust, downsized idle air jets, upsized idle fuel jets, stock needle & main jetting.

Just wondering if other twins reach excessively high revs while enriched or what might be typical behavior. Thanks.
Click to expand...

The high idle speed with choke is normal. What's not normal is to use pods with stock "main jetting". Your bike is almost certainly running lean when on the main jet, which means extra heat. Not good. Have you performed plug chops to check the mixture yet?
 
I have done a plug chop one time and the plugs looked somewhere between lean and good. I was going from memory but will have to re-check what my main jets are. Will richen them up if they aren't already.

Also, today I noticed the negative effects of cross winds with pod filters. I may be putting the airbox back on if I can get a set of boots for it. I went with the pods to make carbs easier to get on and off for cleaning and maintenance.

Thanks for the feedback.
 
I've reinstalled the factory airbox and stock jetting (new stock jets, so they should be clean) and I still get the erratic idle, and idle will hang over 4000rpm (even propelling me down the road) unless I put a braking load on it. I replaced intake boot o-rings, and I think the boots are flexible enough to seal properly. Replaced airbox boots. If I knock the idle down by putting bike in gear and easing the clutch out, it will come down to a reasonable 1500rpm or so, and stay there until revved again, then will hang above 4000rpm again.

I know I'm reviving an old post, but it's as much for my own notes as for any feedback, which is always welcome.
 
I know you just revived your own old thread, but this statement amuses me every time I see it:
brad020 said:
I went with the pods to make carbs easier to get on and off for cleaning and maintenance.
Click to expand...
What many people don't realize is that if you clean your carbs properly, you won't have to remove them again for several years.

To me, all the frustration and expense of re-jetting for pods does not offset the effort of removing the carbs. I mean, really, remove the carbs once every several years, with all the "frustration" that might be involved, or make it easier to remove them about a dozen times in the first couple of weeks, along with all the expense of jets?

I guess I am spoiled with my shafties around here, I can just about stand beside the bike and throw the air filter into place. Removing it only requires undoing the clams and dragging it sideways. I can have the carbs in-hand in less than 5 minutes, with no blood shed. :D


.
 
I think my high idle may have been caused by having clogged pilot ports in the body of the carburetor, thus it wasn't getting fuel to mix with the air at minimum throttle. To compensate, I had the idle speed screw cranked up, holding the throttle blade open so it could get fuel from another jet, perhaps the midrange circuit, or needle jet. I carefully cleaned the tiny ports at the base of where the throttle blade closes in the body of the carb, and problem seems solved. Backed off idle speed and it behaves nicely. (Side note, I am still using pods, not stock airbox)
 
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