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gs450 start up issues

  • Thread starter Thread starter jfsebastian
  • Start date Start date
Nope, no ignition yet.
Tried again today with some gas in the cylinders and then tried to fire it up, but in vein.
Any ideas what to check first?
Already checked ignition and it?s OK. New battery fully charged.
Switch on RUN, clutch in and starter runs fine.
What what what???

My tank is finished minus the waxing.
Swing is painted with POR15 and will be on tomorrow.
Bike is ready to roll, if it starts that is.....

JF
 
Guys
New spark plugs, freshly loaded battery, spark fine - No start.
Poured gas in the cylinders, just half a cap barely and almost nada.
Just a short puff and then the starter just goes on and on.

Can the fact that I have disconnected the brake lights, rear lights and indicators have anything to do with it?

I have checked all but valve clearance but if that was totally off, at least I hope I would get some crappy running but at least a short run.

Any ideas would be really really helpful right now.

The bike has 28 000 km on it (18 000 miles).

If anyone in Stockholm could help me out in person, a bottle of Single Malt(or boose of your choice) is yours when the bike runs.

JF
 
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I will have to buy that tool, will do when my daughter is free of the chicken pocks.
Sounds like a lack of compression if all electrical is OK.
What else can it me?
 
jfsebastian said:
I will have to buy that tool, will do when my daughter is free of the chicken pocks.
Sounds like a lack of compression if all electrical is OK.
What else can it me?
Click to expand...

Seb has this bike ever run before. If not, then you need to check everything. You don't know what the previous owner may have done or not done.

Check your cam timing.

1. Do Compression test.
2. Remove cam cover and check cam timing. make sure it is timed correctly.
3. Then check the valve clearances and correct if necessary.

The motor needs three things to run. 1. Spark at correct time. 2. Fuel to cylinders in correct amount. 3. And mechanical correctness, i.e. good compression, valves opening and closing at the right time, no air leaks, good exhaust with no leaks, etc.
 
Don,
I?m off to buy a compression tester right now.
Will check all you mentioned tomorrow.
The bike was incredibly stock. Even the covers on the carbs were there.
Not much done there, I doubt that the Top ever has bene off to check for anything.

Fingers crossed......

Thanks mate

JF
 
Hi JF.

I hope you get your bike started soon. I'm working on a couple 450s right now as well. One is in the same category as yours: electrical tests out, but no combustion. I pulled the carbs yesterday and see evidence of clogged up passages.

Is there evidence that gas is making its way to the cylinders? Any gasoline smell or gasoline issuing from the exhaust? If not, the carbs could be gunked up and not delivering any fuel. I apologize if this was asked and answered elsewhere in the thread.

Good luck!
Matt
 
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Sad news

Sad news

I tested the compression today and right cylinder had 9,5bar or 9,5 kg/cm2 or 140 psi.
The left had about 8 bar.
Poured some oil in the cylinder and whoops, 9,5 on that one too.

Seems like I need to get new piston rings.
This is not a valve issue, am I right???

What do I need to buy?
What kind of gaskets, rings, tools etc?
Any advice?

JF- **** that the bike is crappy, slightly glad that I get to tear the engine apart and learn that too
 
Seb,
The optimum compression for the GS450 is 130 to 170 psi and the serviceable limit is 100psi. You appear to have 140 psi on one cylinder and 120 psi on the other. That should be enough compression for the bike to start.
Check the cam timing. You only have to remove the tank, cam cover and the points cover to check it. The manual I gave you tells you how to line it all up. And while the cam cover is off check the valve clearances at the same time. You may have lower compression on one cylinder because there is not enough clearance on the valves and one valve is being held partly open and therefore losing compression.
Have you had the carbs off. If not give them a good clean and replace all "O" rings. Check float level, etc.
 
Don and bmac

Will do that tomorrow morning.
Thanks for being persistent about the valve clearance.
I promise I will learn how to listen soon.....:-)

Hope the Suzuki dealer have the shims in stock if that is needed.

JF
 
Guys, call me an moron, but I can?t get a screw driver in to unscrew the chromed end caps by the head/cylinder.
How the h*ll do you do that?

JF
 
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Heurekaaaaaaaaaa

Just had the bike running for a few sec using the old capful-of-gas-in-the-cylinder ploy.
Ran fine for about 2-3 sec and then died.
Hooked up the tank and tried again, happy as a camper.
More gas, ran fine 2-3 sec and then nada, nothing.

So I guess I have to focus on the carb/fuel part now.

Talked to the PO today and he said it ran fine last spring.
Sometimes a bit hard to start if it had sat for a while, but otherwise OK.
He had never opened the head up, adjusted valves or anything more than checking the carbs every 3 years or so.

I think I will have to find a slope near by and just let go.
See if that forces some fuel in the cyl.
Any other ideas?

JF

IT RAAAAAAAAAN
 
Cleaned the carbs, soldered the floats again since they were leaking,again, they looked clean but anyhow. Mounted them back on the bike, did my fill the cylinder with gas trick and the bike started at once. But for 2 sec and then died again.
I have no PRIME function on my petcock, so how do I prime them?
What can I do to make the fuel flow into the carbs????

HELP
 
So, have you cleaned (dipped) the carbs and done a valve adjustment ?

Hard starting indicates the need for a valve adjustment. I've read somewhere about blowing into the vacuum line (I think) to get the fuel flowing. Do a search a see what you can find concerning this.

Cleaning and rebuilding the carbs with new o-rings and performing a valve adjustment are not optional when bringing these bikes back from a long sleep. Even if it hasn't been that long of a sleep, it should still be done, especially the valve adjustment.:)
 
for fuel flow hook up a temporary auxillary fuel tank. This will eliminate the petcock that may be in question.
 
Guys, thanks for chipping in.
The carbs were clean, I have not dipped them.
The EU has so many rules regarding chemicals so many that you guys get are forbidden here, such as aircraft stripper. Carb cleaner is another that I?ve never seen.
Is there any option on what I can use?

The valve adjusting on the 450 is much more difficult than o other bikes as I need to replace shims in different sizes, not just measuring and adjusting.

Will try blowing (and searching) the vacuum hose and aux fuel tank.

When I dismantled the carbs the other day, both had fuel in them so something works.

More ideas?
 
Hi Mr. jfsebastian,

Valve adjustments on the 2-valve GS motors are not difficult. Just measure your clearances, measure and inventory your shim sizes, do the math, then order the ones you need. There is lots of valve adjustment information on my website, including this:

Valve Adjustment Video:
Kerry Burton of GStwin.com has put together a very informative video chronicling the process of valve adjustment on his GS500. The procedure will be the same for all GS twins. The principle is the same for all 2-valve GS motors.

CLICK HERE to go to the Google video.
cam-valveschematic.gif



Thank you for your indulgence,


BassCliff
 
Thanks Basscliff

The video was really helpful.
Will see what I can do. Need more blade sizes and shims.

JF
 
Well, I did bite the valve clearance bullet in the end.
Less than 0,05 mm on 3 out of four valves, one was OK.
Problem is that one of the shims had no marking on it, but its less than 2.55mm.
One was 2.55x and less than 0.05mm.
One was 2.65 and less than 0.05mm
One unmarked.

I guess I need to go to the local Suzuki dealer and measure the unknown one.
Will order the shims today if I can figure out what I need instead.
How much are those shims by the way?
Maybe I can order a few without being robbed?

The Zip Tie method as described on BASSCLIFFs page was easy to use. I mean REALLY easy. Thanks mate.

******MISTAKE MADE -I removed BOTH inlet shims and now I can not insert the shims again or crank the engine without hitting the bucket with the cam shaft. Managed to push the bucket down so all are in again now.********
 
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