GS450T Restoration

[davidduarte]

About to try and get the bike to start up for the first time. I was wondering what type of oil you would use for the air filter, or does it even matter? I have 10W-40 and 30 HD on hand.

Yes, it does matter! 10W-40 is what is stamped (IIRC) on the oil filler cap/dipstick. Don't use anything that is labeled "energy conserving" (5W30, 10W30, 5W20 etc). There are links elsewhere on this site that explain a lot about oil for motorcycles.

 

[Guest]

Any ideas on to what I should do to the exhaust and the flaky white stuff on the engine?

Do you mean to clean them off?

I used steel wool and chrome polish on my pipes and it cleaned them up ALOT. They still arnt perfect but I can see chrome rather than rust now, there is some pitting of course.

The flakey white stuff is the factory clear coat to prevent the aluminum from oxidizing. What I did for mine is went to walmart and bought a multi-pack of steel wool, Really coarse, medium, and fine and the chrome polish. Then Scrub it with a little polish and the coarse steel wool all over to remove the clear. Then do it again with the medium, then again with the fine and it will polish up really nice. It takes time and elbow grease but man does it ever look good. Ive heard of people using chemicals to remove the clear like aircraft remover (stripper) but I havent tried it.. Search polishing aluminum and see what you find.

After alot of time and effort you can get this. (not mine)

 

[davidduarte]

Is there anyway to get the airbox out of the frame without taking the cylinder head off? snip

It must be possible, Pete has had his bike apart, and is now getting it back together: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=158670

Pete, how did you get your airbox out? Why do you want to take the airbox out? Are you planning on repainting the frame? Unless you're doing a complete teardown and rebuild, it's probably not necessary.

 

[Guest]

1st starting

1st starting

About to try and get the bike to start up for the first time. I was wondering what type of oil you would use for the air filter, or does it even matter? I have 10W-40 and 30 HD on hand.

If you haven't tried to start it already, or, if you have, and it's just cranking w/out starting, that might be a good thing, in any case when you first go to start it, do it with the choke off, so that the oil has a chance to circulate a bit before it starts. If you use full choke, and it starts, the engine might race before oil gets a chance to build up pressure and run dry engine momentarily before oil gets to the head, etc.

 

[Scott W]

I couldn't pull the airbox out of mine until I removed the carbs. came right out after that.

 

[Guest]

I got the airbox out before I touched the carbs from memory, but I had to loosen the rear plastic inner mudguard before I could get it out.

It was still a tight squeeze.

 

[Guest]

Actually I just had a closer look at your frame and it appears that the T frame is pretty much identical to the E frame, which means if there is such a thing as a T over here, there's a chance of getting a seat pan and rear mudguard and tail light that will fit my frame and give me the look I want... cool

 

[daj12192]

Do you mean to clean them off?

I used steel wool and chrome polish on my pipes and it cleaned them up ALOT. They still arnt perfect but I can see chrome rather than rust now, there is some pitting of course.

The flakey white stuff is the factory clear coat to prevent the aluminum from oxidizing. What I did for mine is went to walmart and bought a multi-pack of steel wool, Really coarse, medium, and fine and the chrome polish. Then Scrub it with a little polish and the coarse steel wool all over to remove the clear. Then do it again with the medium, then again with the fine and it will polish up really nice. It takes time and elbow grease but man does it ever look good. Ive heard of people using chemicals to remove the clear like aircraft remover (stripper) but I havent tried it.. Search polishing aluminum and see what you find.

After alot of time and effort you can get this. (not mine)

Yes, that's what I meant, and thanks for the tips. As well as everyone else, I'm just starting out working on motorcycles so every little thing is appreciated. That'll be what I'll do next once I get it fired up. The air box came out too. However, after I put the bike back together the start button is dead. Everything else electrical works great, and before I broke the bike down I tested the starter and it had spark and compression. I looked for a help guide on the website to see what I haven't hooked up right without any success. Is there some common thing I maybe forgot to do? I have some pics of the electric side and the ground cable on the other side.

 

[Guest]

My starter button used to play up due to age. A few times I thought it was dead but a push and wriggle eventually got it to go. Perhaps it's as simple as that?

 

[Guest]

carefully take the starter button apart, there is a spring in there so be careful not to loose it. Then clean the contacts off, the copper can get crud on it over time, I just scraped mine off with a knife and that worked. Also check your grounds and clean them off, or better yet move them directly to the battery, I had that problem too when my starter button wouldnt work.

 

[daj12192]

Got it started up for the first time today! However the fuel cock leaks fluid constantly. The whole assembly costs about $70 on bike bandit. Is this as cheap as it's gonna go? Also, should I worry about redoing the front forks, or should those be okay for the time being? The dust caps are cracking so I'll put new ones of those on, but I don't have to tools/knowledge to do front fork seals. Is it mandatory that I take this to a shop to be done?

 

[davidduarte]

Got it started up for the first time today! However the fuel cock leaks fluid constantly. The whole assembly costs about $70 on bike bandit. Is this as cheap as it's gonna go? Also, should I worry about redoing the front forks, or should those be okay for the time being? The dust caps are cracking so I'll put new ones of those on, but I don't have to tools/knowledge to do front fork seals. Is it mandatory that I take this to a shop to be done?

I'm not sure about putting fork seals on, but spend the money and replace the petcock, although if you have rust in your tank, you should rectify that first. A rusty tank will gum up the petcock sooner or later, and of course it will gum up your carbs too.

 

[Charlie G]

I think I paid $55.00 or so/ Check Z-1 and Parts Shark to double check.

cg

 

[daj12192]

I have the brakes taken apart, however the page in the manual that deals with the master cylinder is unreadable. The reservoir needs cleaning badly. How do you take the reservoir off? I have the assembly off the handle bars already.

 

[Guest]

If it's like my '81, then there's four screws that hold the reservoir lid on the reservoir.

I can't remember now how I got the reservoir off but from memory it was a b*&ch to get off, and mine will need replacing now as there was lots of corrosion due to old brake fluid being left to sit around it, in fact I think I will need to replace the whole lever...

 

[daj12192]

Pete, did you decide to replace the whole lever? I was thinking I may have to as well and wanted to know how you got that thing out of there. I've read around and can't figure out how to pull it out. Bike is getting really close to being done.

 

[Guest]

I don't have my manual handy right now but I'm pretty sure getting the reservoir off the level wasn't so bad.

I haven't replaced my lever assembly yet as I'm nowhere near that stage, but I will do it.

The two reasons for me replacing it are 1. due to the corrosion from brake fluid around the place from the PO and 2. due to the fact I had to drill one of the screws out when I first got it and accidentally hitting the threads with the drill.

I'll try to get to my manual tonight and have a look what it says for the reservoir and I need to look at some other things myself to get ready for working on it this weekend.

 

[daj12192]

No I got the reservoir off already. I'm trying to get the piston out of the master cylinder body to check the corrosion. That's what I can't figure out, and the manual is blurred out on that page. Also, to make sure, does the front sprocket bolt twist off like a normal bolt, to the left? I think I might have to buy an impact wrench for this one.

 

[Guest]

Aaaah I see! I haven't bothered with that on mine as I'm replacing it, and don't have my manual handy again... however I will try again tomorrow night to see what mine says for you

As far as the front sprocket nut goes, yes, standard thread. Have you flattened the washer that should be underneath it?

I can't say as i have experience having to loosen it if it's too tight as the PO hadn't tightened mine and if the washer wasn't folded up against it it would've spun off, not even finger tight...

 

[davidduarte]

No I got the reservoir off already. I'm trying to get the piston out of the master cylinder body to check the corrosion. That's what I can't figure out, and the manual is blurred out on that page. Also, to make sure, does the front sprocket bolt twist off like a normal bolt, to the left? I think I might have to buy an impact wrench for this one.

You shouldn't need an impact wrench, but if you don't have a torque wrench, you should get one. I believe the torque setting range for the front sprocket
is between 58 and 72 ft/lbs (I just recently replaced the sprockets and chain on my 450). Make sure the bike is in gear when you try to loosen/tighten this nut. And yes, it is standard thread, righty tighty, lefty loosey.