Gs500

[Guest]

FYI measurements.

Something didn't seem right when I was doing the math for this engine.
Combustion chamber has 38cc's measured.
Compression ratio is 9:1 according to the book
Bore is 74mm
Stroke is 56.6mm
Piston appears to in the hole 0.030 measured.
487cc's

On a flat top piston engine this would be easy for me to calculate but with this dome type piston fitting into the combustion chamber I have no Idea what to do besides actually measuring things.

Messing around with an engine calculator and punching in
compression
bore
stroke
and 0.030 deck height

It spits back 27cc's for a combustion chamber volume.

I'm thinking of decking the head or block to raise the compression to 10 but not sure how much I can take off each yet.

 

[Guest]

Ok you lost me at your third sentence...

 

[Guest]

lol, I'm just trying to think of a way to increase the compression by shaving the head or the block. But I don't know how much.
I'm going for a compression ratio of 10:1

 

[Guest]

I reckon Ray could help you there... speaking of Ray have you go the beast back yet?

 

[Guest]

Nope, Said he would reassemble last weekend, haven't herd anything yet.

 

[droyce]

If you need to determine the volume of the domes, just press them into some playdough and fill it with water from a graduated cylinder.

 

[Guest]

Play dough. Genius


I got the frame and all parts back today. Stayed up till after 4am putting what I could together.

Tomorrow I plan on getting the tires installed and balanced along with new bearings. Maybe even drop the lower half of the engine in place.

Anyways. Here's some pics.

 

[Guest]

Mate that's awesome! Gonna come together real nice I reckon

 

[Guest]

 

[Guest]

Its a rolling chassis now,

Got the the rims on and all the little bits for the frame.

Just finished the wiring harness and modifying the stock cluster.

I'm switching over to dual Turn signal lights since I don't need a Neutral light anymore.

Also I'm using a bright blue LED right in the middle of the cluster on the top for the kickstand light.

There was already a hole there anyways.


I've decided to add a mini voltmeter like on my last one.

And the gear position indicator right in the middle of the cluster near the bottom.

There isn't much room.

 

[Guest]

Mate nice work, would like to see pic's of the rolling chassis though

 

[Guest]

I had to roll it out to the kitchen to take a pic

 

[Guest]

New cluster lights are done.

Now i have left and right turning lights.
1 for oil
1 for high beam that i have to add a resister on because its too bright.

Neutral will be part of the gear position.
Kickstand switch will either be left alone as a starter interrupt or to drive a warning light.
Mini voltmeter.

I'm also wiring in a hazard light switch and a switch to turn off all lights since its already designed for it.

Thinking of installing some lights in places that would be handy in case i have to work on something in the dark.

USB and 12v receptacle coming soon.


Thinking of buying this

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/200538709020?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

 

[Guest]

Nice... she's looking good! It cracks me up you have to wheel it into the kitchen though... haha

As for the battery, don't do it! Those A123 cells need to be managed carefully to ensure each individual cell does not get under or over charged. Worst case is they can actually catch fire if not maintained correctly. If you have a fancy charging system that monitored the charge of each individual cell, then that would be fine... but that's just a touch beyond the standard GS charging system...

Stick with something like a Shorai where that sort of technology is built in.

 

[Agemax]

if you want a smaller battery with massive power, get a Ballistic 8 cell battery. tiny but awesome power in it. works with stock charging system as well

 

[Guest]

I think its the exact same battery, from what I see they are both LiFePO4 .

Same technology and same cell's inside.
I can't find anything that says there is any technology inside for load balancing on either of them.

They both run the bike the same way and get charged the same way.

Only difference is that the ballistic battery has a balance charger port.

It would be easy to add one to the other pack.

I do like the ballistic pack for the nice casing and the price is almost the same for both.


Either way, That's a few paychecks down the road

I got a another rotor magnet today from a donor engine.
While I was there I got the two piece pushrod for the clutch, The Stator, The rotor and pickups and a few little pieces for the Frankintwin.

 

[droyce]

Looking good man! Its so clean like its being assembled on the factory floor.

 

[Guest]

Just Kitchen floor,

Production output: 1 unit per year

 

[Guest]

Another pic.

Did some minor painting and added the rear fender.

I tried painting my engine covers with duplicolor. That didn't work out. 3 coats of primer, then sanding. Then three coats of paint and 3 clear.

Its so weak that I can scratch it off with a fingernail.

Not sure what to do with it but I might just strip it off and try another paint or get them powdered.



I have another problem now. I have to clean the base out because of the stuff that usually falls in when you pull the cylinders off. I was thinking of using brake cleaner and spraying anything I can get to from the top. and pulling the pan off to get the fluid out.

Then when I get the engine back together I'm going to pre-oil it before rotating it by hand to set the rings.

Just below the ignitor cover there is a bolt. This is the pressure test port.

I took a spare plug and drilled through it it and taped it for a hose fitting.

 

[Guest]

noticed something.

If anyone is swapping in the two piece clutch pushrod you have to cut 8mm off the small rod for it to work with the original corkscrew mechanism.

Or use one from an 1983 and above engine.