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GS550E 1980 engine leak Crankcase or where ?

That amount of oil, are you sure it isn't valve stem seals?, If you're going to open and do the gaskets refit with viton kind, ebay. I get mine from a supplier in the US, he does one that looks very similar to OEM with a metal sleeve all around. You can get from SPS (suzuki Performance Spares, (Nick Pepper) they do the Viton ones with a wire spring that locates. Still very good and won't fail. I used those on my ELR Kawasaki and are perfect.
 
I tend to agree.
when I get to this engine it has to be as you say
oem gaskets , stem seals , check valves,
clearances .....

this is my favourite bike and madly
the one that lacks detailed documentation.
as it keeps going forever seemingly I
have not treated it as a project.
My other bikes I have all details
in a folder.

New folder and docs now sorted.
I'll leave this engine and try the other
one as it is meant to be perfect.
That is cheapest way forward and then at
leisure I can do this one as a spare.
 
I must say I appreciate as always the expert advice
but am surprised you missed the one thing....

ie.

- fit that spare engine fully reconditioned
by a engineering expert you have sat in the back
of your garage sat in test cradle (inc in price)...

20201108_104655_resize_48.jpg

The project starts this week.
Can you believe not a single stripped thread.
A straight swap but need to swap electric ignition,
cam cover gasket and new breather hose , oil , filter
and that's it.
 
Engine out . easy pace at 3 hours.
Not gonna rush so clean up threads etc and new
engine in tomorrow.

issues :
- cant remember how I put and config the
electric ignition (newtronic).
-3 bond arrived and need valve cover gasket.
gonna go for cheapo with 3 bond for a test.
- how to remove side engine case circular stickers.

20201112_124458_resize_28.jpg
 
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Swapping bits from.old engine.
New 2nd recon engine for sure was done by a skilled
obsessional retired engineer as it is quality .
The exhaust bolts are studs and not a stripped thread
about. I fell on my feet when I bought this.

My old one i can see my own neglect for the sake
of my other 3 bikes. No more the GS gets the full treatment now.

20201112_152320_resize_29.jpg
 
I think all bolts etc torqued correctly mow.
Head was as perfect torque.Casings and sump too.
Set it to tdc awaiting mewtronics gear and
timing chain was in correct position. (the guy new
what he was doing for sure).
Starter motor in.

awaiting, cam tensioner gasket , cam cover gasket
and front sprocket before I put engine back in.

Managed to get it out myself so should get it back
in. have one of those cheapo wind up lifts so
can get engine at same level and tug it over.

20201113_113128_resize_97.jpg
 
Parts arrived.
cam cover gasket (cheapo athena)
this goes on tomorrow but with a smear
of 3 bond.

q) as using the cheapo gasket when using
3 bond is it a smear on both sides ?
very thin layers ?

- expect the new engine test towards end of week.
 
I would hold off on the 3bond for the cam gasket. Many of us just apply a little grease.
Gives a decent chance that it will be usable a second time with no grief opening up.
 
Athena gaskets suck. You can use sealer on the cover but good luck trying to get it back off to do valve adjusts.
 
I had the choice of cheap athena or expensive
from Robertson foundry (suzuki dealers).
I have taken a risk as the faces look in
such perfect condition and due to being the poorest
of forum members.
- bit of grease first attempt as I have to
re torque head

(I used athena on old engine in question
with wellseal in places) on base gasket up.
 
Update and valve clearances data:

I attach the valve clearance data.
tolerances are : 0.03-0.08 inlet and exhaust

I am gonna rummage through my shim stock
and get my maths head on but could I leave it as is ?
0.02mm out on 3 inlet and outlets and after a few heat cycles
when torqing head and checking valves do it then
if necessary?

I hate doing the clearances with shims.

This is my current plan.
20201118_105749_resize_33.jpg
 
The ones that are 0.10 and 0.11, I'd leave as they are, as that's what I normally shoot for as a max to give a larger safety margin between checks.
You could leave No 4 as-is until your next scheduled shim check, as it's well within normal limits, but I'd be inclined to also bring that one into line with the others.
However, a couple of thousand miles might see things settle down, as you say.

That chart shows the PO was aiming for 10s, but fell on the last pair because he simply didn't have any more shims.
 
I agree that the obsessional old engineer
mechanic chap did as you say.
The quality of work and every bolt torqued correctly gives
me enormous confidence this engine is basically brand new !

I await cam chain tensioner gasket only now.
Robertson's foundary 5?.

it will be started by the weekend.
I can barely control my excitement .

[then its pull the original engine to bits prob down to
split crankcase and see what butchery I have done to it.
That engine had done 72k with one new head.
the main issue with that one is the head stripped
bolt holes for exhaust and cam cover .
and I recall pots fine and head was skimmed but I
never changed rings. fun to come on that]
 
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Update : engine in.

Just sorting electrics and other bits and next
comments should be engine start and running in.

Have one issue with regulator (on elecs thread ).
but wont stop progress.

20201119_125612_resize_49.jpg
 
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Will be first start and first heat cycle this weekend.
Amazing for once on my GS to have every bolt and nut
torqued perfectly and no stripped threads.

I look at the original engine and
see the butchery on it. Stripped
threads on the exhaust ports, cam cover and
leaks from can chain tensioner and
cam cover. This is how it came mind.
Gonna strip it down after the GS is
sound.
 
Bike started within 4 seconds turning key.
Pre oiled cylinders before with a squirt with plugs out and ran.

no leaks as of yet but only started to check timing and test.

only issue as per another thread re exhaust , is cylinder 4
aluminium manifold is warped so wont hold tightly ex gasket.
so its make straight or new or I might try 2 gaskets in that one.

test run tomorrow with first heat cycle.
 
First few runs . Total of 20m done now and using
running technique from thread on here.

Bike runs like a dream . This and haven't touched carbs
for mixture and vacuum gauge setting.
Will check plugs and see how it goes but a result . Engine
was rebuilt by an expert as a hobby.

So oil leak fixed by putting in another engine...

now I must find out and recon my original engine.
look out for another thread .....

thanks for alls help.
 
p.s I used athena cam cover gasket and
some grease on both sides.
It seems to work.

(only used athena as knew I'd be checking valves, cost
and took a chance as the surfaces were in perfect condition.
Seems if they are athena ones work)

we will see after a remove and replace
 
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