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GS550e Running Issues

  • Thread starter Thread starter c0okiez
  • Start date Start date
C

c0okiez

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This bike is becoming a nightmare. When i take it out of the garage to ride it down the street. As soon as i get moving, it will bog out and die and doesn't want to start. And whenever it makes it down the street and i go to turn around, either it cuts out when i take it out of gear to slow down or it will bog down when i try and get moving and just die. (Carbs have been cleaned and rebuilt properly, new plugs, fresh battery) I have no idea why it can't make it down the street without at least dying 3 times.
 
it has the two barrel set-up. but it hasn't affected how it runs whether they are 2-turns, all the way down, or all the way out. you're talking about the screws on the side of each carb right? these are the ones i have been adjusting (circled in picture)

carbs.png
 
Okay, I thought I could help but I'm out of my league since I'm not sure which screw is which when I look at the fiche.
 
haha, yeah me neither really. just waiting on someone who knows which ones are supposed to be adjusted/not. not much information about the actual screws to be turned, just "2-3 turns out"
 
That screw you've circled is the plug for the carb sync port.

The mixture screws do not show on the parts fische because they are not replacement items, according to Suzuki - meaning they weren't meant to be gotten to... The mix screws are under a pressed-in alum cap located on the top of that "tower" located to the left of your circled screw.

When you dipped your carbs, did you pull the small dia plugs out to expose those mix screws??
 
What hikermikem said.

1) Be certain carbs are clean and rebuilt (sounds like that's done)
2) Get to those mix screws (will have to drill out covers to get to them, unless it's been done already). Once you can get to them, hope that their not frozen and that the tips are broken. Mine had both issues, ultimately requiring a 2nd set of carbs to make one working set.
3) Replace the o-rings between the intake boots and engine. Mine looked OK, but when I replaced them with new, it was night and day.

BTW, before the above, my bike would start, run but idle very poorly, bog/stall under anything past idle unless I added throttle PAINFULLY slowly and once at 5K RPM would then race to redline unless I released throttle, which would usually cause a bog/stall.

Best of luck!

PS: I have an extra set of carbs for parts.
 
Get to those mix screws (will have to drill out covers to get to them, unless it's been done already). Once you can get to them, hope that their not frozen and that the tips are broken.
Click to expand...

The mixture screws have a small spring and o-ring that they fit through so careful taking them out. The o-rings will likely need to be changed (cycleorings...Robt. Barr). With the screws out you should redip the carbs or at least blow carb cleaner throught the mixture passages. When you put them back in, screw them in until they bottom out (gently) then back them out 2.5 turns to start. Bench synch the carbs by turning up the idle screw so the butterflies are about the width of a paperclip up from the body of the carb. Hopefully that will set them so they run right.

I would start again and do a full cleaning and rebuilding of the carbs with fresh o-rings. As mentioned make sure the intake manifolds are in good shape and their o-rings are good and not squished too. Air infiltration makes the bike run very lean and can make it crap out or run rough.

Good luck with it.

cheers,
Spyug
 
spyug said:
The mixture screws have a small spring and o-ring that they fit through so careful taking them out. The o-rings will likely need to be changed (cycleorings...Robt. Barr).Good luck with it.

cheers,
Spyug
Click to expand...

028_Air%20screw%20components%20exploded.jpg
 
thanks for the information guys. where exactly are these "towers" the screws are located under? im slightly confused on where the hidden location is at.
 
just took a look at my carbs, and they haven't been drilled to be able to access the air screws, from what i could tell they are still bone stock. but if someone could post a picture of this tower they are hiding behind that would be great, or instruct me on where they are actually located behind/under, before i start drilling.
 
that's where the choke cables enter the carbs. i'm no expert and they might be it, but i don't think they are.
 
Hi,

I've got pictures.

frame_straightening40.jpg


reassembly040410_01-1.jpg


025_Prepare%20to%20remove%20air%20screw.jpg


026_Air%20screw%20removed.jpg


027_Air%20screw%20spring%20removed.jpg


028_Air%20screw%20components%20exploded.jpg



Please note that the "air screw" labeled above is actually the "idle mixture screw".

I'm sorry I don't have any pictures of the carb before the idle mixture screw cap was removed. I'm hoping that your carbs are similar enough that you will see where yours are.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Cliff, you're a life saver =) Even though I have the "2x2" set-up they should be relatively close, right? I hope?
 
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c0okiez said:
Even though I have the "2x2" set-up they should be relatively close.
Click to expand...


Yup, your carbs (sometimes called "siamese" carbs) have 2 mix screws in each body, along with 2 slide & needle assy's in each as well...

You should see 2 small diameter caps in each body - each cap has a small hole through it to let the air out of the cavity when it's pressed in. Those caps are thin, approx. 3/16" (.187") thick.

Take care when you drill them out, YOU DO NOT WANT TO HIT THE TOP OF THE MIX SCREW WITH YOUR DRILL BIT !!

Just drill a slightly bigger hole & thread in a sheet metal or dry wall screw (or similar) enough to grab the cap & yank it out.

Next, and EXTREMELY IMPORTANT, use a screwdriver blade that fits the mix screw slot perfectly - I have a screw driver that's dedicated for this task only... You may have to grind the screwdriver shaft a bit so the correct size driver will go down hole. Don't bugger that screw head up by using the wrong size screwdriver.

Good luck, we are all here to help you along the way...
 
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are these caps facing the motor or facing the airbox? i'm just trying to figure out exactly where they are at before i whip the drill out.
 
Facing the motor. Have a close look at Cliff's pictures.

Good luck,
Spyug
 
BTW if you break the fragile mix screws, you'll be told they are no longer available. Through some research and long hours staring at the computer screen I found that the 1989 GS500 mix screws are the same as the 83 - 86 GS550 mix screws.

Don't lose the springs....

They are on the motor side, on on either side of where the choke cable goes into the carb.

On my carbs I actually had to mount the carb assembly to a drill press and use a screw extraction kit to get the old ones out.

The issue you're having though sounds like a problems with the pilot jets. I had the same issue and found out the previous owner had put in pilot jets that were 5 sizes too big... It was a nightmare until we got that figured out. Check you jet sizes... Also when you pulled the pilot jets did you look into the tower the jets are mounted to? There's a perforated brass tube in there that likes to collect corrosion and nastiness. It's just pressed in and held in by the jets.
 
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mix screws turned no problem for me. however, i just noticed the cyl3/4 carb bowl was dripping fuel out of the drain plug, and now it turns out the inside threads are stripped so it wouldn't tighten. i need a new bowl now...ugh. but have no idea where to get one. part fische's don't sell them.
 
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