G
Guest
Guest
That's gonna be really cool! Nice work.
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T
Toasty
Guest
Thanks!
I got a few things in the mail today
Wires
RFID and relay
I pulled out all the boxes of parts I pulled off the bike when I was stripping it down and tried organizing a bit. There really wasn't much that was going back on the bike..
It was getting late too so I did a few small things while I was at it.
Adding new tank mounts, I chopped off the L mounts a while ago and used some all thead to make new ones.
Add some washers/nuts, and the are now some E mounts good as new.
A little electrical tape to hold the pucks on better. I would have used heat shrink tubing if I could find it...
My solo seat always seemed a bit long, and since I cut off the battery tray brackets I'm forced to relocate it... With the seat long there was no way to fit it under there, but if I took 4" off...
It took a while to get up the courage to Dremel it
Curved some to fit the tank
Not bad... It needs some sanding and smoothing but it fits well. And the tank/seat combo is solid as a rock.
I swapped to my extra 650 tank btw, the red one is straight and I don't want to risk banging it up if I don't have to.
I got a few things in the mail today
Wires
RFID and relay
I pulled out all the boxes of parts I pulled off the bike when I was stripping it down and tried organizing a bit. There really wasn't much that was going back on the bike..
It was getting late too so I did a few small things while I was at it.
Adding new tank mounts, I chopped off the L mounts a while ago and used some all thead to make new ones.
Add some washers/nuts, and the are now some E mounts good as new.
A little electrical tape to hold the pucks on better. I would have used heat shrink tubing if I could find it...
My solo seat always seemed a bit long, and since I cut off the battery tray brackets I'm forced to relocate it... With the seat long there was no way to fit it under there, but if I took 4" off...
It took a while to get up the courage to Dremel it
Curved some to fit the tank
Not bad... It needs some sanding and smoothing but it fits well. And the tank/seat combo is solid as a rock.
I swapped to my extra 650 tank btw, the red one is straight and I don't want to risk banging it up if I don't have to.
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T
Toasty
Guest
I've done this so many times, it only took me about 30 mins to mock the bike up. Hopefully my new fuse panel will get here from Eastern Beaver this week so I can get started on the wiring.
I figured now is a good time to start replacing the valve stem seals so I made up a tool from pvc (from Bikecliffs site).
It was a little too long so I cut some off, but the window wasnt large enough.
Better
These probably don't need to be replaced but I might as well. I need to get lapping compound sometime this week to clean up the seats some.
All the valves are in good shape, no pitting or burns.
All springs are within spec too.
I figured now is a good time to start replacing the valve stem seals so I made up a tool from pvc (from Bikecliffs site).
It was a little too long so I cut some off, but the window wasnt large enough.
Better
These probably don't need to be replaced but I might as well. I need to get lapping compound sometime this week to clean up the seats some.
All the valves are in good shape, no pitting or burns.
All springs are within spec too.
T
Toasty
Guest
I couldn't sleep last night so I installed my LED tail light.
As she sits now
I wanted to test out the remote flashes I got for Christmas
As she sits now
I wanted to test out the remote flashes I got for Christmas
G
Guest
Guest
Looking good Toasty! I gotta say though, cutting the seat pan doesn't leave a lot of room to move around on. How does it look with the read tank on there? Are you planning on keeping the chrome front fender? I'd like to see the mock up without it. I think it would fit the cafe style better with maybe some gaiters on the forks. Regardless, it's coming along real nice. Love what you did with the tank supports. Ingenious.
T
Toasty
Guest
The seat is a bit short but no more then any modern sportbike. There is room to move side to side and back a little, it's definitely much more comfortable then it was though... There wasn't much support when the bump stop was so far back. I can move the seat back some if necessary.
I definitely still plan on running it with a fender. I'm not sure if it will stay chrome or be painted black, and if I want to leave it the stock length or cut it down. The bike is gonna be a rider so having some sort of fender is important.
The bike had gaiters on before I tore it down, they might go back on... I need something chrome to balance out the rear shock springs though. The only chrome on the bike will be the springs, fork tubes, headlight ring and maybe the fender.
I'll take some pics without the fender this weekend, along with whatever else I'm working on
.
I definitely still plan on running it with a fender. I'm not sure if it will stay chrome or be painted black, and if I want to leave it the stock length or cut it down. The bike is gonna be a rider so having some sort of fender is important.
The bike had gaiters on before I tore it down, they might go back on... I need something chrome to balance out the rear shock springs though. The only chrome on the bike will be the springs, fork tubes, headlight ring and maybe the fender.
I'll take some pics without the fender this weekend, along with whatever else I'm working on
.
W
wally
Guest
I really like not only the look of light, but also the photograph - very cool!
Also kinda liking the colour.
T
Toasty
Guest
Haha thanks! The weird terracotta primer has grown on me too
Oh and I bit the bullet and bought this off Ebay
I think I got it for a pretty fair price.
Oh and I bit the bullet and bought this off Ebay
I think I got it for a pretty fair price.
G
Guest
Guest
Oh, nice. I really love the look of the USD forks, especially with spokes. I've wanted to do that conversation on my baby kat but I'm not adept enough at figuring it out haha.
T
Toasty
Guest
Yea I've seen a few bikes with spokes and modern front ends, it looks pretty cool. Luckily there is a member here (T8erbug) who made some adapters to make the swap work, I've been pming with him about getting another set made.
T
Toasty
Guest
The honing supplies came in this week so today I decided to tackle doing that... After reading endless threads on here about it I feel good enough to go forward.
Ready for honing.
The tools: 62mm aluminum oxide 240 grit ball hone, 62mm brush, flex hone oil (probably not needed but it wasn't expensive).
In the drill. I immediately switched to the cordless drill though, the plug in one was way too powerful for this job.
Oiled up.
Two down, the unhoned cylinders look nasty.
Done honing! I messed up at first, I went too fast and didn't get a cross hatch pattern. Go slow a few times and then pump it up and down fast to get the 45* pattern. I did it quickly on reverse too.
Washing with warm water and soap until all the metal particles are out of the cylinder.
Clean and lightly oiled.
Ready for honing.
The tools: 62mm aluminum oxide 240 grit ball hone, 62mm brush, flex hone oil (probably not needed but it wasn't expensive).
In the drill. I immediately switched to the cordless drill though, the plug in one was way too powerful for this job.
Oiled up.
Two down, the unhoned cylinders look nasty.
Done honing! I messed up at first, I went too fast and didn't get a cross hatch pattern. Go slow a few times and then pump it up and down fast to get the 45* pattern. I did it quickly on reverse too.
Washing with warm water and soap until all the metal particles are out of the cylinder.
Clean and lightly oiled.
T
Toasty
Guest
I'm worried about two of the cylinders though... 
I didn't notice prior to honing but two (1 and 3) have some pitting around were the rings were when the engine was sitting. It was originally from Florida but everything else is solid and not rusted at all.
Everything looks good in the sunlight
But in the shadow its easy to see... This is the worst of the two, and I can feel the pitting slightly in some spots
The other one
Am I worrying about nothing or should I be looking for another cylinder head (or serious professional honing)? I really just want to get this thing back together.
I didn't notice prior to honing but two (1 and 3) have some pitting around were the rings were when the engine was sitting. It was originally from Florida but everything else is solid and not rusted at all.Everything looks good in the sunlight
But in the shadow its easy to see... This is the worst of the two, and I can feel the pitting slightly in some spots
The other one
Am I worrying about nothing or should I be looking for another cylinder head (or serious professional honing)? I really just want to get this thing back together.
T
Toasty
Guest
Parts are coming in for 550L version 2.0. I found myself at an impasse and just decided to go big .
I'm piecing together something pretty cool, the majority of the parts will be here by Monday and I can start moving forward again.
The front end will be:
- 2002 GSXR-750 inverted forks
- Honda 954RR calipers (superior to the GSXR stuff)
- 50mm Woodcraft clip ons
- 954RR clutch perch and master cylinder
- Black powdercoated GS750 spokes
- Custom aluminum spacer to attach massive 320mm Triumph rotors (from T8erBug)
For the rear I have an aluminum GS1100E swingarm that I'll be using. I'm talking with a local machine shop to have some bronze bushings made up to replace the needle bearings and have the correct inner diameter to use my 550 pivot bolt. Shock wise... I'm not sure what to choose. YSS seems really nice for the price but I don't know if they offer eye to clevis. Works is legit but expensive and I wouldn't mind Hagons again but I would like some rebound/compression adjustment.
The sportbike take offs were not bad at all price wise. Apparently no one really cares about decade old forks... For a less than it costs to add cartridge emulators, performance springs, swapping to dual discs and adding good fork brace you can have modern adjustable stuff.
What has come in already:
PC-8 fuse box
50mm Woodcraft clip ons (the ID is HUGEEEE)
954RR brakes
If this info is useful for anyone else, it is possible to use 954rr brakes on GSXR fork legs. This only works with non-radial mounts/calipers and 320mm rotors. The bolt pattern is the same, there is just a MM or two that needs to be filed off the inside of the caliper so it doesn't rub on the rotor.
I decided to go with Honda stuff because I needed brakes anyway and the calipers are known to be better (feel and performance wise). Plus the gold is just awesome :-\\\.
The things that are still in transit:
- GS650 block (9K on it and cheaper then machining my old one)
- USD forks
- Dime City order (battery and other smalls)
- Caliper bolts
- Clutch perch
- Wheel adapter (about a month away from completion)
- All Balls bearings
One last thing I picked up is this AWESOME voltage indicator LINK. Its a round LED that changes color/flashes depending on voltage. My friend with the GSXR got one and it's slick as hell. You can pop it out of the plastic housing and install it in a dash for a super clean voltage dummy light.
. I'm piecing together something pretty cool, the majority of the parts will be here by Monday and I can start moving forward again.
The front end will be:
- 2002 GSXR-750 inverted forks
- Honda 954RR calipers (superior to the GSXR stuff)
- 50mm Woodcraft clip ons
- 954RR clutch perch and master cylinder
- Black powdercoated GS750 spokes
- Custom aluminum spacer to attach massive 320mm Triumph rotors (from T8erBug)
For the rear I have an aluminum GS1100E swingarm that I'll be using. I'm talking with a local machine shop to have some bronze bushings made up to replace the needle bearings and have the correct inner diameter to use my 550 pivot bolt. Shock wise... I'm not sure what to choose. YSS seems really nice for the price but I don't know if they offer eye to clevis. Works is legit but expensive and I wouldn't mind Hagons again but I would like some rebound/compression adjustment.
The sportbike take offs were not bad at all price wise. Apparently no one really cares about decade old forks... For a less than it costs to add cartridge emulators, performance springs, swapping to dual discs and adding good fork brace you can have modern adjustable stuff.
What has come in already:
PC-8 fuse box
50mm Woodcraft clip ons (the ID is HUGEEEE)
954RR brakes
If this info is useful for anyone else, it is possible to use 954rr brakes on GSXR fork legs. This only works with non-radial mounts/calipers and 320mm rotors. The bolt pattern is the same, there is just a MM or two that needs to be filed off the inside of the caliper so it doesn't rub on the rotor.
I decided to go with Honda stuff because I needed brakes anyway and the calipers are known to be better (feel and performance wise). Plus the gold is just awesome :-\\\.
The things that are still in transit:
- GS650 block (9K on it and cheaper then machining my old one)
- USD forks
- Dime City order (battery and other smalls)
- Caliper bolts
- Clutch perch
- Wheel adapter (about a month away from completion)
- All Balls bearings
One last thing I picked up is this AWESOME voltage indicator LINK. Its a round LED that changes color/flashes depending on voltage. My friend with the GSXR got one and it's slick as hell. You can pop it out of the plastic housing and install it in a dash for a super clean voltage dummy light.
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wegs426
Guest
I've been very happy with my YSS shocks and they are only the basic ones. They do in fact make eye to clevis shocks. I wish I had known about the swingarm swap before I upgraded. Now I've got a nice 1100 swingarm that's just waiting to be put on but I can't bring myself to buy new shocks when I just did six months ago.
T
Toasty
Guest
Good to know, I saw them advertise on DTT but they were showing some funky offset adapter for clevis mounts. I think for the money you get the most features with YSS, the ones with adjustable everything an no piggybacks are $399... Not bad at all.
T
Toasty
Guest
Yesterday a few more things came in the mail
It was too late to work on anything when I got home so this morning I wanted to test out my keyless ignition system. I bought a few packs of alligator clips from Fry's a few weeks ago and I finally had a working battery so I dove right in.
It worked perfectly. I posted a wiring diagram earlier in the thread which was mostly correct. I need to change one of the ground connections for the solid state relay, there is no split coming off of the RFID receiver like the instructions showed.
Here's the video, excuse the mess I was drinking my morning coffee and had to make space on the table.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUr6XIznZ3U
Replace the headlight with the switched ignition on circuit and you're in business. Really simple.
The basic rundown of how it works again:
* Connect everything to power and ground
* RFID receiver gets pulse from Key Fob
* RFID unit sends low voltage pulse to the solid state relay
* The SS relay sees the pulse and is programmed to "latch on/off" using the dip switches
* Connect the brown wire to 12v+ and the yellow 12v+ OUT to the 12v relay. You can make the yellow send out 12v- if you connect the brown to 12v- but that's not what you need here.
* Wire the relay correctly and it will click on and off when the key fob is swiped.
It was too late to work on anything when I got home so this morning I wanted to test out my keyless ignition system. I bought a few packs of alligator clips from Fry's a few weeks ago and I finally had a working battery so I dove right in.
It worked perfectly
. I posted a wiring diagram earlier in the thread which was mostly correct. I need to change one of the ground connections for the solid state relay, there is no split coming off of the RFID receiver like the instructions showed. Here's the video, excuse the mess I was drinking my morning coffee and had to make space on the table.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUr6XIznZ3U
Replace the headlight with the switched ignition on circuit and you're in business. Really simple.
The basic rundown of how it works again:
* Connect everything to power and ground
* RFID receiver gets pulse from Key Fob
* RFID unit sends low voltage pulse to the solid state relay
* The SS relay sees the pulse and is programmed to "latch on/off" using the dip switches
* Connect the brown wire to 12v+ and the yellow 12v+ OUT to the 12v relay. You can make the yellow send out 12v- if you connect the brown to 12v- but that's not what you need here.
* Wire the relay correctly and it will click on and off when the key fob is swiped.
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B
Bonehead
Guest
This thing is gonna be beautiful Toast... I may just have to ride up to see it in person when I'm done with mine
T
Toasty
Guest
Yea man definitely! We need to organize another big GS meet. Btw have you started up a build thread on your 650?
Oh, and here are some pictures from this weekend.
I made a pan for all the electrical stuff from a scrap piece of sheet metal I got from the local art/scrap place.
Figuring out where everything will fit
Draping wires. This weekend I want to start cutting wires to fit and testing circuits.
New jugs came in, 9K on these and no pitting. Painted them up and did a light hone.
Oh, and here are some pictures from this weekend.
I made a pan for all the electrical stuff from a scrap piece of sheet metal I got from the local art/scrap place.
Figuring out where everything will fit
Draping wires. This weekend I want to start cutting wires to fit and testing circuits.
New jugs came in, 9K on these and no pitting. Painted them up and did a light hone.
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T
Toasty
Guest
Today... I got a big box in the mail. Hehe :twistedevil:
Its ghetto rigged right now but tomorrow the bearing kit is coming, and in a few weeks I can bolt on the wheels for real.
Its ghetto rigged right now but tomorrow the bearing kit is coming, and in a few weeks I can bolt on the wheels for real.
B
Bonehead
Guest
Oh yeah :lol: Check it out. Just got some sexy looking Ape SuperPro Filters and man they look good haha. Thank god I just got my tax refund... Hello parts heaven :twistedevil:
