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Gs550t jetting questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter blmiller8
  • Start date Start date
I installed the same kit on my 82 GS550M, and it doesn't come with the direction sheet, but should have the specification sheet.

you can use the directions from kit #3315 but use the specs from your kit #3314.
http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3315.pdf

the directions do assume you understand carb jetting, but should still be helpful as page 2 has some nice diagrams (ignore page 1 as these are specs for a 750).

also, remember to remove the two carb float bowl vent tubes when installing a stage 3 kit!!!

note that the #3314 kit comes with 2 sets of main jets to help you 'tune' it a bit, and you can adjust the needle height but that's about it. it does recommend which main to start with.

also, it might be helpful to refer to a carb diagram in the clymer manual to make sure you have needle, washer, e-clip, spacers, spring, all in the correct order. you never know what a PO did.

don't stress about drilling the slides, you're just making the hole a bit bigger so it slides quicker. there are lots of threads about that effect that you can search for if you want to understand how that works.

good luck!
 
photo.jpg


Not sure if you can even see it the lighting in here is really bad. I dont know how to get that thing out other than drilling it.
 
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I put the snap ring thing on the needle in the fourth notch from the top.
 
the jet insert (air correction brass piece with no threads) goes in over top of the one that is in there already. the dynojet one is more restrictive than the stock one.

you press it in with the supplied holder and glue it in place (supplied also).

as for the vent tubes. the carb should have 4 rubber hoses attached to it. 2 run to the gas tank and 2 are about 10 inches long and just vent to the air. these 2 that vent to the air need to be removed. this lets the float bowls fill up with fuel at a faster rate (due to the addition of the larger main jet). you can leave the plastic 'T's in place, just pull off the hoses.

Maybe these had already been removed? you'll find one between carb #1 and #2 float bowl and the second one between Carb #3 and #4 float bowl. hope that clarifies.
 
the jet insert (air correction brass piece with no threads) goes in over top of the one that is in there already. the dynojet one is more restrictive than the stock one.

you press it in with the supplied holder and glue it in place (supplied also).

as for the vent tubes. the carb should have 4 rubber hoses attached to it. 2 run to the gas tank and 2 are about 10 inches long and just vent to the air. these 2 that vent to the air need to be removed. this lets the float bowls fill up with fuel at a faster rate (due to the addition of the larger main jet). you can leave the plastic 'T's in place, just pull off the hoses.

Maybe these had already been removed? you'll find one between carb #1 and #2 float bowl and the second one between Carb #3 and #4 float bowl. hope that clarifies.

I see what you are saying now. They weren't installed on the bike when I bought it.
 
Should be my last question what is syncing the carbs and how do I do it.

I cant get the snap rings back in the sliders guess I have to take it to a shop in the morning and have them do it for me.
 
Should be my last question what is syncing the carbs and how do I do it.

This site is a great, dare I say invaluable, resource with some how to guides and is run by a GSR member. There is a section for 'carb sync':
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

searching the forum for 'bench sync' will also get you some good results. this will get you close, and you can buy a manometer or a set of vacuum gauges to get them really synchronized.

of course, if you read a lot of posts on the forum you'll note that you should perform a valve adjustment, verify coil voltage, check your spark plug gap, eliminate any air intake leaks, etc. before you bother trying to tune the carbs.

I cant get the snap rings back in the sliders guess I have to take it to a shop in the morning and have them do it for me.

motion pro makes a special snap ring plier just for this purpose. I was able to find a suitable snap ring plier at Sear's that did the job with a bit of modification to the tips. still, it was not a substitute for the motion pro pliers. guess you really do need the right tool for the job sometimes.
 
The plastic piece that goes in the slide before the circlip only goes one way. The two nipples are not evenly spaced so pay attention.
If you got those circlips out of the slides you can get them back in. Throw the cirlip in around the plastic needle piece like a horse shoe. Tap the slide so both holes of the circlip are off to the side with solid metal under each one. Stick in the needle nosed pliers and squeeze an push the cirlip in. If the other side doesn't go in the hole way just push it in with the end of the pliers. It'll click into place.
Your jetting looks good with the needle on the fourth down and the largest Dyno main jet.
 
Thanks for all the help everyone. Installed the carb's today without a hitch. The bike runs great too. I haven't had a chance to take it out to the highway and test it all the way through the gears yet. I did take it around town today a little and it feels like a new bike. Runs through the lower gears with no hesitation or bogging at all. I cut the pods to fit around the frame then just put some 8802 to cover up the holes in the. I had to reinstall the muffler though because I was getting all kinds of noise complaints from the neighbors.

Here is a pic of the finished project.
 
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