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GS650 carb adjust

  • Thread starter Thread starter RedK9
  • Start date Start date
R

RedK9

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Hi, I'm new in the motocycle world and on this forum. I'm from Quebec in Canada and it's why english is not very good, my first language is french.. I buy a GS650 GL 1982 for first bike. After clean the carbs and install pod filter, I start the bike. No surprise, I need tu adjust the carbs. The bike need a inspection to return on road and I need he runs okay for it. Do you have a how to for adjust the carbs? I don't know where begin. My only experience on carb is on my old scooter, on one carb, it's easy, but four carbs, I'm lost a little bit. Thank you for the help.
 
When you say "install pod filter" , do you mean each carb now has its own filter, or you just replaced the foam filter in the airbox? How about a picture of your carb setup?
 
Sorry, I'm a little bit noob... But I would learn to adjust it by myself
 
Since you installed the pod filters, do you have the original airbox/air filter setup? I hope so, cuz these critters are very fussy about intakes changes. They will start and idle OK with pods, but will perform poorly unless the carbs are reworked properly.
 
As Tom says, you need to rejet the carbs. Purchasing a jet kit designed for pods is the simple option, but not the cheap one. Dynojet and Sigma sell jet kits. Also, those pods you bought are the cheapest and crappiest available. Geting some real K&N brand pods is highly recommend if you insist on using pods. All this hassle can be avoided by simply leaving the bike stock though.
 
I would like to do a cafe racer with the bike. I already have the oem air box, but at the end, I don't want to see it on the bike. I have a lot of time to learn how to do for adjust it. I just need some help to know where begin.
 
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At the end, I would have custom exhaust and the pod filter on the bike. That is the only modification I will make.
 
It's your party, but it's going to take lots of work and money- $100 for decent pod set, $120 for a dynojet carb kit... Hopefully, this bike is in good mechanical shape, because it would be a pity to do all the work and discover a mechanical issue like bad transmission ,etc.
The advantage of starting with the stock airbox setup is then you have a base to compare to as you later make intake and exhaust changes.
Have a look at this link to see what proper carb cleaning involves.. It's challenging

http://zeus.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf
 
I wouldn't want to discourage you from building a cafe-style ride, but as Tom says, starting from a baseline where you know the mechanics are both good and safe is a smart move. In the long run it will save you time and money.

If you are familiar with engines from another discipline (cars, trucks, planes, etc), then this is no more involved. If you are not, then I advise being cautious. Check things first, then plan a route of attack. If you don't, you'll encounter more down time, and more money spent acquiring parts. A small fortune can be doled out in shipping charges if you need a small bolt here, or some rubber fasteners there.

Have you ridden before? If not, then the best money you can spend is on a motorcycle rider course.
 
Yes it's my first bike, and I know it will be a big challenge, but I have the time because I think not ride this bike this summer, just next summer. I buy it to make a project first and to learn how it work. It's a personal challenge. I looking for answer to my problem.
 
Ok.

Let's get back to the original question, then.

Even if you are intent on going with pods and custom pipe, I'd start with going back to the OEM airbox for now, and do your carb adjustment to get the bike running. Yes, I know it's two extra steps, but it will give you a very good base from which to start tuning for your custom setup.

Tell us more about how the bike is running. Does it maintain an idle? If so, at what RPM. How does it sound? Is it struggling to stay running? Do the RPMs race? Does it struggle to start?

Have you bench synched the carburetors? That is, are all of the butterfly valves open the same, small amount when the throttle is closed?

I know there is a great thread about adjusting carburetors complete with pictures, but I don't have the time to look right now...
 
On some Pods the rubber shoulder inside that butts up against the back of the carb can stick out far enough to block the air jet and the big air intake hole that moves the slides. You can notch out the shoulder so they are not blocked. I would check for that. I saw that on youtube Ichibon Moto. The guy is a joker but the basic info is correct. He's more serious on Hackaweek site.
 
Yes, I will put the OEM filter first. It's a good idea. Do I have a sync carb tool to do this job? And how can I check the air/fuel screw are good? With the answer of the throttle? Thank you for your answer, I'm a little bit noob..
 
If the carburetors are not on the bike, you can put them on the workbench and do a visual synchronization of the throttle openings. Many will use small objects to gauge the opening, I prefer to not stick anything in there and just look through the carb, observing the sliver of light around the edge of the throttle butterfly. Slowly open and close the throttle with the idle speed adjuster, you will be able to see which carb opens or closes first. Adjust them so they all open and close at the same time. That will get them close enough for the bike to start and run. Yes, you will need gauges eventually, but the bench sync will get it going.

When you have the bike running decently and have passed your inspection, please re-evaluate why you think you "need" pod filters. Especially the ones in the picture. The 650 is a wonderful little rocket as-is. I don't know how much power might be added (if any) by installing pods, but the effort and expense to get to that point must certainly be considered.

.
 
I don't install Pod for add power. I install it for delete the big oem air box. In the futur, I will relocate the battery and remove all thing not necessairy on the bike. And there is a big advantage of the pod, it take about 2min to remove the carb assembly.
 
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Can someone post the link for bench syncing please?

found it..
 
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RedK9 said:
And there is a big advantage of the pod, it take about 2min to remove the carb assembly.
Click to expand...
How often do you anticipate removing the carbs? When the bike is ridden regularly enough to get fresh gas, and if it's stored properly during the winter, you should not need to remove the carbs more than once every ten years or so. Putting up with ten years of frustration of pods is not worth the three minutes saved.

Yes, three minutes, in my case. The larger shafties can have their carbs removed in about 5 minutes. I believe your 650 will take a little bit longer, but still should not need to have them removed very often. :-\\\

.
 
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