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gs650e starting issue

  • Thread starter Thread starter GreedyRogue
  • Start date Start date
unfortunately I didn't receive the original headlight and turn lamps. If I remove the fairing, I have to buy a whole new setup for the front.

I don't need to remove the fairing to get to the carb or motor. If I turn the handle bars either way I have full access.

I also removed the air filter last evening. Not sure what it means when my air filter is more of an oil filter.

I could probably squeeze an oz of oil out of that thing. Ordering a replacement in the morning.
 
Yeah, you can probably pull carbs with fairing on, but first time carb removal/reinstall on the 650's is no joy- you will learn new words and likely have fond memories of the Schwinn carb setup.
 
GreedyRogue said:
unfortunately I didn't receive the original headlight and turn lamps. If I remove the fairing, I have to buy a whole new setup for the front.
Click to expand...

I may have a spare set of headlight 'ears' if you need them but the headlight is going to be a pain. If you want to go original, be prepared to do some hunting. The back casing is available new, but it'll set you back about $50. The other parts I think you'd have to find on ebay or the like. Might be cheaper to get a complete aftermarket headlight, if you choose to go down that road.

The joys of having a semi-rare bike.
 
when I rebuild my carb, where is the stock position for the idle screw? start all the way in, out, or?
 
Thanks Tom. I read through the guides and printed them for reference for when my o-ring kit shoes up, but didn't see that mentioned. Of course it'll need adjustment from 3 turns, but I needed a starting point.
 
Not to get too far ahead here, but make sure you understand the "bench sync" when you get the carbs back interconnected BEFORE you reinstall them on bike.
 
I understand the basic idean of bench syncing, but in practice it may be more interesting. Youtube instructions for the save, lol. Nothing like seeing it done to get a better idea of how it works.
 
My googlefu is failing me today. Anyone know of a good resource for actually taking the carbs off? Starting to make up the cuss words now.


I found youtube videos for other bikes but not sure which model would have the same intake as the 650
 
GreedyRogue said:
..... Anyone know of a good resource for actually taking the carbs off? Starting to make up the cuss words now.
Click to expand...
You already found it- this place! As I said, 650 carb removal is no joy. Understand that you have to get air filter box/airbox moved to rear of bike a bit (and every bit will help)- this way you can get airbox boots off carb mouths. The "E" box is slightly different than the shaft 650's , so look for how it's bolted to frame- push aside wires and anything that prevents filter box/airbox from sliding backwards- 1/2 inch is a big deal here. Take pics on what you are doing, in case you get interrupted by tornados, court orders regarding your language, etc.
 
I actually just got the carbs removed, after unbolting everything from the airbox it wasn't too bad. Getting the front intake seperated from the actual box was a trial, but not too bad.

Already looks like one engine side boots needs replaced, I'll inspect them when I wake up later. I work graveyard and should have been in bed 2 hours ago.

I found the part numer for the boots, what would be the best source for them? Part number 13110-47010
 
Last edited:
GreedyRogue said:
I found the part numer for the boots, what would be the best source for them? Part number 13110-47010
Click to expand...
On some bikes, they are in the air cleaner fiche, evidently your bike is not one of them.

On the rest of the bikes, they are in the Cylinder Head fiche.

.
 
tom203 said:
Looks in decent shape, but that fairing ruins the looks- you have to take it off to get at carbs anyways,so take a pic when fairing is off (and original seat in place ). IF you decide to bail, bike would be more appealing without the plow attached. The 650E's are rare, I've never seen one.
Click to expand...
Obviously, wind-diverting devices are a "personal" thing. Some don't like them, others do.

I, for one, happen to like them, and I really like yours. Click on the link in my sig to see my 850, you will understand why.

As you have already found, access to the engine is still possible with the fairing attached. I have even done a valve adjustment (in a motel parking lot in NY) with the fairing on, so don't let the nay-sayers influence you. I did not have lowers attached, though, when I did that. There are times I wish I had lowers for mine, but then snap back to reality. If it's cold enough to need the lowers, I will just take the Wing. Better protection and more electrical capacity for the electrically-enhanced clothing. :D

You may want to re-consider that seat. It appears to be a Travelcade double-bucket. Very comfortable, but I found that it raises you about two inches above stock riding height. If you are really tall, it might be OK, but I found that it changed the ergonomics away from ideal and went back to stock. I have since come across a Mustang seat and look forward to trying it out when I get my 850 back on the road.

.
 
GreedyRogue said:
I actually just got the carbs removed, after unbolting everything from the airbox it wasn't too bad. Getting the front intake seperated from the actual box was a trial, but not too bad.

Already looks like one engine side boots needs replaced, I'll inspect them when I wake up later. I work graveyard and should have been in bed 2 hours ago.

I found the part numer for the boots, what would be the best source for them? Part number 13110-47010
Click to expand...

Right side of the bike: 13110-47010
Left side of the bike: 13120-47010

I don't think I'd be the only one to recommend replacing all four at the same time. Then you know they are good. I replaced only one of my intake boots on the airbox side and it was a BAD idea. It was nice and flexible and the others were tough and with the 650E, getting the airbox back on is a nightmare that even Freddy Kruger would cringe at.

You can order the O rings from Suzuki too, but I think most here get theirs from http://www.cycleorings.com/ if you haven't already purchased them.

A lot of people here like Boulevard Suzuki. I've yet to find a source of OEM parts cheaper. My local dealer marks their parts up 20% or more. Guess they'd rather have me buy a new bike than fix mine.
 
So I got a whole new set of boots ordered. Started tearing the carbs apart and getting everything dipped and cleaned. The dip is working great btw. There was a few clogged jets, not any more.

Now I just need to fix a messed up aluminum cap that is still covering the jet. Managed to break a screw and a drill bit off in it and now cant get the cap off. . .
 
Update on my rebuild so far.

Cabs are completely cleaned and reganged together. Going to bench sync them in the morning. I wish I had realized how long it was going to take to get parts shipped here. I am worried I won't be able to get it all back together properly.

Can't seem to remember where the vent t's lines from the carb go. . . Anyone have a decent diagram? I tried the service manual but no luck.
 
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