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GS650GL + 90's katana 600

  • Thread starter Thread starter Old guy
  • Start date Start date
The triple tree bolts right up. The bearings cross referenced between the two bikes. I figured since the katana is a steel frame and the bearing barrels for the GS was already being made, they probably just used it. You'd have to add steering stops and check tank clearence, but it's a an easier swap than gsxr front gear.

three rebound adjustments, dual front disks and 2 piston calipers, much better spring rates.
 
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Need some photos posted along the way, so that we can point and accuse you of doing it the wrong way.
 
Swapping the shaft drive to chain is probably easier than a chain bike.

the reason being, the swing arm on a shaft bike is held in by studs that unscrew from the frame. A little lathe work and a center hole will let you run the swing arm bolt through them, and, be able to adjust the distance/width between them.

The frame I picked up is identical to the titled bike I have. So, I can mock up a roller to see whats possible w/o ruining the ruining bike I have. It's win win.

so far I'm in $75 for the bike, $0 on the frame, $20 for the trailer rental, and gas.

So far the katana front swap is a simpler way to rework the front of the bike.

If if the whole swap won't work, I can build a wicked go kart. ;)
 
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Swing arm length of the GS is 18.5", GSX 22"

the front wheel axle to the frame sets back an inch. But on the L forks the axle mounts in front of the forks.

the bike will get 2.5" longer. Unless, I push the pivot foreward.
 
Motor drops into the frame much easier than the original. So it'd be cake in a larger bike.

More room in the frame with this motor.

The exhaust ports clear the frame down tubes. That's a good thing.

One mount und hole in the rear could be used, but, it'd pull the front sprocket away from the swing arm and might cause issues with chain rub.

It it seems like it'd be much easier with an onler style swingarm.
 
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Wiring will be pretty straight foreward. This motor uses a gear driven alternator with a built in regulator. Bye bye charging issues.

Really just the signal generator to igniter, I can keep the starter solenoid wiring the same and safety switches, power feeds, and I can swap to the newer fuse box.

The front mounts will be will be pretty simple. The stock mounts almost work, just need to be a touch wider. I'll weld new tabs for the rear mounts and lower mounts.

No way the air box will fit w/o hacking the frame. So looks like filter pods or something creative.

carbs are flat slides and a good bit shorter than the originals and there are some well developed jet kits available.

Foot pegs will get moved back and up some, which is good because the ground clearence sucks.

Should be be able to keep the old school look with a touch of modern and way more go.

once this gets done, I'll be looking hard for a 750 katana motor 100+ hp would be ****.

Haven't figured out the exhaust yet, but a bandit exhaust might be the ticket. Got an oil cooler to clear now too.
 
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once this gets done, I'll be looking hard for a 750 katana motor 100+ hp would be ****.

Haven't figured out the exhaust yet, but a bandit exhaust might be the ticket. Got an oil cooler to clear now too.

How about an 1100 Kat engine? With Yosh Exhaust. I am kinda on the fence about selling it right now, but a good offer might get it from me. I have the whole bike.
 
Whole Katanas are popping up for 200-600. I can't justify buying parts when whole bike are this cheap. I picked up the one I have now for $75.

witttom was following this build to see about swapping a kat motor vs a bandit 1200. He might be interested since the 1100 kat and bandit motors are almost the same.
 
More good news. These bikes weren't cool enough, and aren't old enough for the parts to be expensive. Picked up 2 front calipers, w/ lines and mounting bolts (bike was missing a caliper) for $18 shipped on eBay.
 
Looking for a bandit 600 exhaust before I can build the mounts. A 1200 will work but it'd be a speed bump magnet. It's 1.5-2" longer from the inlet to the collector.

Going to to end up going with a GS swingarm fitted with the katana 3 spoke wheel and brakes.

The shaft drive frames are 12" wide at the pivot. It pushes the foot pegs out quite a bit and ground clearence suffers, but if I eventually throw a 750 motor in there 106hp will help me forget about it.
 
Scratch the exhaust hang up. I put the bike on my work table so I don't have to work on the ground and low and behold the exhaust clears the downtubes. Pretty surprised seeing as how a katana doesn't have downtubes, might be off a different bike, don't know, don't care, it's a good thing.

not working on the ground, it looks like going to the mono shock won't be too hard either. The lower cross bar is in a good spot, the upper cross bar needs the middle cut out, but I can tie what's left to the upper shock mount for some bracing.

Wish i I still had a plasma cutter.
 
I couldn't find a metric tape. I brought back a few when I moved back from Germany, because they don't have them in the states, and I HATE the standard system.
The distance between the stock front mounts was close. needed to modify the Katana mounts to lose some distance. that'll be a good enough start to do the rest of the mounts. The design was set up with the rubber between the inner and outer tabs to allow movement, and I guess to reduce vibrations..... I might end up loosing the rubber and going to a solid material if it causes an issue. From mocking things up the rear suspension link will mount between the existing centerstand mounts. The upper mount will need to be fabbed. The plan is to move the swingarm pivot foreward a coule of inches.

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I don't know about dropping other forums names, but old school suzukis has a ton of awesome swap a roo and suzuki mix and match projects on it. Lots of good motor and suspension swap stuff.
 
My short adjustable levers came in today. Should be able to get the front end on my running bike soon.
 
Picking up a 650GT seat and tank in great shape
for $25 on Tuesday. The GL tank and seat need to go.

The mounting points are a little different but it's no biggie. They look way better for where I'm taking the project and the extra gas capacity will be nice too.
 
Picking up a 650GT seat and tank in great shape
for $25 on Tuesday. The GL tank and seat need to go.

The mounting points are a little different but it's no biggie. They look way better for where I'm taking the project and the extra gas capacity will be nice too.

If there is a T after the G (like GS750GT or GS850GT or GS850GLT) it would mean the model year (T=1980), but Suzuki didn't import a 650 in 1980, so I'm kinda curious what you're getting. Hehe... unless I'm mistaken, the only GS650 models in the US would be E, G, and GL, imported in 81(X), 82(Z), and 83(D). So a 'straight up' G model (non-L), could be a GX, GZ, or GD.

Your GL tank aughta be pretty easy to sell. The tanks are usually one of the first things to go, no matter what model I'm parting out. The L seats on the other hand, tend to linger. Hehe...
 
There was a GL and a GT model.

the GL is the Harley looking funky handle bar model.

the GT is basically a shaft drive styled like an E

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