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GS650GT carb strip

  • Thread starter Thread starter janner
  • Start date Start date
J

janner

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Right , Stripped the carbs off tonight, removed choke rod, drained fuel bowls , attempted to loosen the first screw holding the gang rail that holds the carbs together and , it tight !! I have a proper kit for all sizes of screws and have chosen the right bit to fit the screws, but even with a 1/4" drive ratchet on it , it reluctant to budge, i havent gone any further tonight as i was hoping for tips on removal before chewing any screws, any advice will be appreciated, and no doubt more questions as we proceed further, bear with me folks , cheers jon
 
Give every screw a squirt with 3-in-1 penetrating oil (not WD40). It works remarkably well on carb screws - I don't ever even start taking them to bits without using it.

You'll also need it when unscrewing the pilot jets - don't attempt it without oiling first.

Available in Halfords, B&Q etc - in a copper coloured can. Nothing works like it.
 
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Forget the newer Vicegrips- made in China, jaws are not as hard as the oldies. A 6" long old time vicegrip would grab the screw heads end on with no problem.
yep new ones will twist :mad:
 
Right chaps, left them soaking in SAS penetrating fluid that we get at work !!!! and went out an hour later and placed the hex drive with the right size bit in the first screw and gave it 2 or 3 swift blows with a ball pein hammer too shock the thread, and it worked a treat, came undone no problem, needless to say 16 screws later and the same result, so tomorrow i can separate the carbs after centre punch i.d,ing them and do one at a time, i,ll keep you posted,all the o-rings and bolts etc have arrived now aswell .. one question before i shut up and go to bed, is , after putting the air screws back in what should be the starting point for running ? 1 1/2 or 2 turns from stop ?. cheers all
 
Start about 3 turns out and then tune from there. It will get you started well enough to test everything and then adjust using the highest idle method.
 
update

update

Well guys I,m well into the carb strip/re-build now, I,ve added a couple of pics which require two questions answering, first is , on carb 3 from left, when I stripped the float bowl off there was a rubber washer on top of the gasket, after removing the gasket there was a alloy cylindrical plug which blocks the airway off to the inlet tract !!! surely this rubber washer should be fitted on top of the the alloy plug before re-fitting the float bowl gasket, heres a pic of the alloy plug with the washer fitted before fitting the gasket

gscarbpics002.jpg


And while were here, I stripped the far left inlet manifold off and wow what a mess, could this have been causing the ill running ? it was covered in silicone too, when I removed the o ring it broke up and was very brittle, heres a pic too.

gscarbpics001.jpg



Your thoughts gentlemen please, its all going to plan though, cheers jon
 
Bump !! Come on guys, i need to know about that rubber washer before bolting it back up, :lol:
 
The aluminium plug goes in the hole first, followed by the rubber spacer, then the bowl gasket.


And YES, that gunk is most of the reason your bike was not running well. Did you contact our friend Robert Barr at cycleorings.com for his o-ring kit for your carbs? He offers a full set of o-rings for your carbs, another set for the intake tubes and even offers stainless screws to hold the intake tubes to the head. We get them for less than $25, but shipping to you might add just a little bit. Well worth the cost, whatever it may be.
 
Yeh I got the cycle orings kit, and the stainless allen headed screw bolts and the intake o ring kit, so hopefully will be running like a good un soon enough, going to take the cam chain tensioner off this weekend and check it out , clean it and re-furb where possible,
 
The aluminium plug goes in the hole first, followed by the rubber spacer, then the bowl gasket.


Thanks for that, i have put it back right then as I thought, but when I took it apart it was on top the gasket ????
 
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