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GS700 Carburetion Tweaks

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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Greetings all. My brother just picked up a very clean, bone stock GS700E with 17,000 miles on it. Am absolutely impressed with how much fun this bike is, particularly the synaptic level of steering response.

One problem we've both noticed is that this bike seems to take the better part of forever to warm up, and I'm wondering if there are well-established, simple mods that can be done to clear up this glitch.

I'm thinking that it may just be a matter of fattening up the idle a tad, but with regards to that I haven't been able to find anything that looks like an idle mixture screw, or an anti-tinkering cap that would cover such a screw. By the way, this is a California-spec bike with the charcoal canisters in the tailsection, not sure if this particular model was set up differently from bikes going to the other 49 states.

Would greatly appreciate any useful tips/anecdotes.

Thanks

Bill Metz
 
On the top engine side of the carbs are tubes with a metal cap on top, I think the caps have a little pinhole in the center. You can drill that cap out (careful the screw is under it), and fatten it up by turning it counter clockwise a bit.
 
Bill:

I have an '83 GS750ES and I think that cold-blooded start-ups were characteristic of the breed. If you find a cure, please be sure to make a post and let us know. I usually let the bike idle for a couple of minutes if an absolute cold start, then ride with partial choke for about 1/2 mile. Even then, I note that it usually takes 10 - 15 miles to get up to full operating temperature on the oil temp guage......not that I've noticed any impairment of performance in the interim, but I hate to push an engine before the oil is fully hot.

Simon
 
Okay, pulled the carbs on the GS700 to fix a leaky float valve. Set the flaot height at .900 inches. Looking around inside and out revealed a few things:

1) The main jets are 122.5s. Manual specs 117.5s. This bike has stock intake and exhaust, anybody know if these jets are too big? Or is going up a couple of sizes a good way to get rid of the '80's-era EPA-mandated leanness?

2) On a similar note, the neeldes appear to have been shimmed- the thin metal washer that usually rides on top of the needle clip was sitting underneath the clip. I know this is SOP on other Suzukis to get rid of midrange leanness, is it the same on the GS700?

3) And finally, continuing the theme, the idle mixture screw caps had been removed and the mixture screws set at 3 turns out. Again, is this a standard tweak?

Thanks

Bill

P.S. Synching the carbs made a WORLD of difference in terms of smoothness and midrange oomph.
 
Sounds to me SOP for correcting the leaness as you've suggested. My '83 GS750es was very cold natured 'til I installed a pipe and stage 3 Jet kit, now she starts with little or no choke even in the winter. Still takes a while(approx. 10 miles) for the oil temp to rise to operating temp.
 
'Kay, I'll buy the needle shim and mixture screw settings. But two jet sizes sounds like something I'd need with an aftermarket pipe, not the stock mufflers. Guess the only real answer is in a tailpipe-sniffing dyno run...

Bill
 
Factory specs for the GS700 are main jets of 122.5. 117.5 is the spec for the GS750. If you have the factory manual, you have to use the addendum for the GS700, NOT the specs for the 83 750.
And yes, the bikes are coldblooded as he**.
 
Gary said:
Factory specs for the GS700 are main jets of 122.5. 117.5 is the spec for the GS750. If you have the factory manual, you have to use the addendum for the GS700, NOT the specs for the 83 750.
And yes, the bikes are coldblooded as he**.
Click to expand...

Insert Homer Simpson "D'oh!" here...

Thanks

Bill
 
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