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GS750 Throttle Cable Install / Adjustment

  • Thread starter Thread starter Gbrown
  • Start date Start date
G

Gbrown

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I have used the search function and also looked through the service manual, owner's manual, and mikuni manual, but have had no luck getting a clear answer on how the throttle cables (push-pull) attach at the carb. The pictures below are of the old cables as I found them when I went to replace them with NOS cables last night. I'm not sure if either of these scenarios is correct and I'm looking for some assistance. Would someone please chime in on how these are supposed to hook up? Also, a brief overview on adjusting them would be tremendously helpful. I've been told to start the new cables at the bars and have them 'fully adjusted' for no slack or play, then go down to the carbs and take the slack out of the cables there, then go back and fine tune at the bars. Is this correct procedure? Anyone care to elaborate? Thanks in advance for all your help.
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Really? It's displaying on my browser... I'll try attaching it again here.
 

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Should I have posted this in a different forum? Anyone have input?
 
Picture showed up, cables look OK there.

It does not make a lot of difference whether you start routing the cable from the handlebar or the carbs, but start adjusting at the handlebars. Put in as MUCH slack as you can. Go to the carbs, adjust to get MOST of the slack out, lock the cables in place. Finally, go back to the handlebars, fine-tune the slack to take out as much as you can, but check the adjustment by turning the bars to both sides, all the way to the stops. If the engine speeds up, give it just a bit more slack. Start with the Throttle OPEN cable. When that is done, adjust the Throttle OFF cable, making sure it has a bit of slack at all times. It doesn't usually do anything, it's there as a safety measure.

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.
 
Steve said:
Picture showed up, cables look OK there.

It does not make a lot of difference whether you start routing the cable from the handlebar or the carbs, but start adjusting at the handlebars. Put in as MUCH slack as you can. Go to the carbs, adjust to get MOST of the slack out, lock the cables in place. Finally, go back to the handlebars, fine-tune the slack to take out as much as you can, but check the adjustment by turning the bars to both sides, all the way to the stops. If the engine speeds up, give it just a bit more slack. Start with the Throttle OPEN cable. When that is done, adjust the Throttle OFF cable, making sure it has a bit of slack at all times. It doesn't usually do anything, it's there as a safety measure.

.

.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input, Steve. I appreciate the guidance on adjusting the cables. I do have a question regarding the location of the adjusting nuts in the picture. It seems one cable has both nuts above the bracket, one cable has both nuts below the bracket, and I have a coworker advising me that there should be one nut above and one nut below. ??? Could you help me sort that bit out? Thanks in advance.
 
Yep, one above, the other below is the proper way.

That way, you can tighten them against the bracket and hold everything in place.

.
 
Got it together and rode around last night for the first time in 2 weeks. Man it felt great to have knees in the breeze! I didn't do any fine tuning yet so there's a bit of 'play' at the handle, but I'll sort that out soon enough. Thanks for the input.
 
I had a really hard time getting the throttle cable into the carb throttle linkage. There just wasn't enough room between the boot and the linkage to get the cable in sideways. I tried holding the carb throttle linkage open on one side so the connection was easier to see from the top and using needle nose plyier to get the "ball/cylindar" on the end of the cable in it's hole. Eventually I pulled the carbs out of the boots so I had a little more room. There must be a trick to this.
 
tweebs said:
I had a really hard time getting the throttle cable into the carb throttle linkage. There just wasn't enough room between the boot and the linkage to get the cable in sideways. I tried holding the carb throttle linkage open on one side so the connection was easier to see from the top and using needle nose plyier to get the "ball/cylindar" on the end of the cable in it's hole. Eventually I pulled the carbs out of the boots so I had a little more room. There must be a trick to this.
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear you're having so much trouble! I only removed the tank so I could better see what I was doing and had zero issues removing/replacing the cables... Good Luck!
 
Just found this thread, thankfully. Can somebody advise on which of those in the picture is the push and which is the pull? Or, which is the roll on and which is the roll off side?

I found on another site, one wrote, "The pull cable is the one that does most of the work - it is the cable that is under tension when you open the throttle, against the spring that is trying to snap it shut." If that's correct, I should be able to figure it out, I suppose.
 
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And.... Disregard, I figured it out. What was helping to throw me off was the third hook up, and I couldn't figure out what it was for. Turns out it was the choke cable, so all is well.
 
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