GS850G - Fuel Upgrades

[vicimus]

Hi Everyone, I'm new here and I thought I'd post a little bit about my upcoming GS850G tinkering project to see if anyone had advice before I mess things up.

I bought my GS last year to ride around while I figured out a way to fix my Honda (broken bolt problem) and it ran fairly well. I did have some issues towards the end of the riding season where it wouldn't start. I replaced the battery and it seemed fine after that for starting. After that it started chugging and skipping a bit, so I replaced the spark plugs. That seemed to make it worse until I noticed one plug wasn't seated correctly. That's about the time I had to put it away for the year. It was December in Maine and getting a bit too cold to ride.

After getting the bike out of storage this year & running it around, it wasn't running very well. I had backfiring problems, along with a lack of power and some skipping.

I thought it was probably linked to the spark plugs, but while looking around I found some holes in the exhaust & decided I'd like to fix that.

So, that's where I am now. I've installed V&H 4 into 1 exhausts.. after a grueling bit of drilling because one of my old rusted header bolts broke off.

Currently it's unable to be ridden because it sounds like I'm doing drive by shootings, the backfiring is so bad. I figured this was because it's not jetted correctly, so in an attempt to fix things I've ordered new K&N style pod filters and a stage 3 kit.

Any advice on my problems or installing the new parts? (besides the stock is better advice.. I'm pretty much committed now)

Thanks everyone!

 

[Dave8338]

Fully tear the carbs apart, dip them, replace the orings (ALL OF THEM) and look into getting a Stage One jet kit. The V&H pipes tend to flow very well and may be a bit lean on the pilot jet. Bump those up 1-2 sizes, adjust the valves, clean lightly oiled air filter and you're golden.

Welcome to the GSR...

 

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. vicimus,

There are certain procedures that are necessary to bring your classic GS back to its former glory. Those procedures are in your "mega-welcome"; clean carbs, well-functioning charging system, etc. You'll find lots of GS850G lovin' on my website. Let's get started...

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[vicimus]

Dave: Thanks for the response! I've got a full set of replacement o-rings and some intake gaskets that I plan on putting in after some carb cleaning. The bike has a local dealer sticker on it, but I'm not sure if the carbs have ever been torn apart cleaned, so that's a definite.

Why do you recommend a Stage 1 kit? I've got the V&H and pod filters that I'll be putting on, and everything I've read said Stage 3... not to mention that's all Z1 had and I already bought them.. ha! Am I SOL?


BassCliff: Thanks for the warm welcome! I've been scouring through your site's PDF's over the last couple of weeks and it's all great stuff! Nice work! I haven't gotten into the charging system stuff yet, but I'm assuming my problem last year was because it sat for 3 months without riding between work and all the damn rain we had. The new battery seems to work fine this year. I definitely need to go through all of the electrical though since the PO didn't really take very good care of her.

 

[salty_monk]

You'll need the stage 3 kit. Probably the bigger one of the two main jets. You may get away without going up on Pilot jet size but will probably need to wind the screws out to about 2.5/3 turns.

I would also be wary of your ignitor - clymers has a good procedure for checking the trigger (usually never go faulty) & the ignitor box.
I chased a "carb" problem on a 1980 GS1000G for months before finally figuring out it was the ignitor causing the problem. The fix was to fit a Dyna S (for any model earlier than 82 with mechanical advance you can do this).

You should also adjust your valves if you haven't already as hard starting is a symptom of tight valve clearances.

 

[Dave8338]

I didn't see the part about the pods, as well as the pipe. Yes...a stage 3 is the kit you're after...

 

[Guest]

You'll need the stage 3 kit. Probably the bigger one of the two main jets..

The stage three I have for my 850 came with three sets of mains. You're correct, it calls for the largest.

 

[vicimus]

Woohoo! Stage 3 kit arrived today. Now I'll just have to wait for some nice weather to try it out. Unfortunately I work on the side of the road.. ha! City life..

It does sketch me out a bit that I'll be drilling holes in the carbs..

 

[rideOn]

Can't tell you what 4-1 pipes the P.O. installed but mine did the same when i got it. I dipped the carbs, shimmed the valves that needed shimming and she runs much better. Purdy much did what everyone is saying. She maintains idle now, no matter the length of ride. I'm still fine-tuning the fuel/air mix from doing plug reads, but real close!

Good luck! I loves my eight fiddy

 

[Guest]

Woohoo! Stage 3 kit arrived today. Now I'll just have to wait for some nice weather to try it out. Unfortunately I work on the side of the road.. ha! City life..

It does sketch me out a bit that I'll be drilling holes in the carbs..

You're not drilling the holes in the carbs, just the slides.
Heh, be sure to use the correct bit:-\\\

Its not a big deal at all!

 

[vicimus]

Well, I've been working on the bike all afternoon and I haven't been able to get the dang carbs apart. There were some pretty mangled bolts (even before I got to them) and the last mechanic didn't have the decency to put any anti-seize on the bolts!

So, long story short, I'm going to leave it overnight with some lubricating oil on it try again tomorrow! .. I'm also going to need to dremel off a couple more of em..

Not fun!!

 

[jknappsax]

Do yourself a favor and replace the Phillips screws with stainless steel Allen head screws, much easier if you need to take the float bowls off, or the caps to do a carb sync. I believe you can now get them from cycleorings.com, a member here on the GSR named Bob Barr.

 

[Guest]

Well, I've been working on the bike all afternoon and I haven't been able to get the dang carbs apart. There were some pretty mangled bolts (even before I got to them) and the last mechanic didn't have the decency to put any anti-seize on the bolts!

So, long story short, I'm going to leave it overnight with some lubricating oil on it try again tomorrow! .. I'm also going to need to dremel off a couple more of em..

Not fun!!

What bolts, the gang plate? Whack em with a impact driver.
Prolly a bit too late but using really good fitting screw drivers make all the difference in the world. Also keep in mind all those little jets and adjustment needles are BRASS. Ya have to go really easy with em.

I shot the VM's off of my 1000 with PB Blaster for weeks before I attempted to disassemble them.

 

[Guest]

Do yourself a favor and replace the Phillips screws with stainless steel Allen head screws, much easier if you need to take the float bowls off, or the caps to do a carb sync. I believe you can now get them from cycleorings.com, a member here on the GSR named Bob Barr.

Indeed!
For sure replace the slide caps(tops) with hex or something similar. Anything besides screws. IN case ya have to remove em adjust the needles.
Makes life much mo betta!

 

[vicimus]

What bolts, the gang plate? Whack em with a impact driver.
Prolly a bit too late but using really good fitting screw drivers make all the difference in the world. Also keep in mind all those little jets and adjustment needles are BRASS. Ya have to go really easy with em.

I shot the VM's off of my 1000 with PB Blaster for weeks before I attempted to disassemble them.

Yeah, the top gang plate was my first issue with stuck bolts. I actually busted the tip off my impact driver phillips head on one of them and had to slice down the middle of another to get a flat head on it. Finally got the gang plate off. Now all I've got left is the CV cap screws. The float bowl screws all seemed fine.

Hopefully all is well in the morning! I don't get a lot of sunshine to work on this sucker!

 

[gssuzukixxx]

Can't tell you what 4-1 pipes the P.O. installed but mine did the same when i got it. I dipped the carbs, shimmed the valves that needed shimming and she runs much better. Purdy much did what everyone is saying. She maintains idle now, no matter the length of ride. I'm still fine-tuning the fuel/air mix from doing plug reads, but real close!

Good luck! I loves my eight fiddy

Did you notice a big improvement in performance over stock exhaust and air box? How about noise level?

Brian

 

[vicimus]

Well, I haven't been able to get them back on the bike yet. Hardware store run for bolts took much longer than I anticipated. Also, I had to go back for snap ring pliers.

So.. finally back working on them again.. and I've royally f'd up I think.

Drilling the first slide didn't go so well.. the hole is completely cocked. So much for eyeballing it.

Does anyone know if I'm completely screwed with that mistake? I notice the replacements go for $85, and they're a replacement for the OEM, not the originals. Am I into this for $85 or $340 to keep them the same? Can this run as is with a slightly crooked hole?

 

[TheCafeKid]

FOLLOW the instructions EXACTLY in your Dynojet kit. EXACTLY. Do that, and clean your carbs as suggested. DO NOT change your pilot jet size. The DynoJet kits say specificly in them that they are designed to work with your STOCK PILOT SET UP. If you change that, you'll end up rich and sloggy down low, and the bike will run like $hit after a couple of weeks when your plugs are caked with soot..

 

[Guest]

Well, I haven't been able to get them back on the bike yet. Hardware store run for bolts took much longer than I anticipated. Also, I had to go back for snap ring pliers.

So.. finally back working on them again.. and I've royally f'd up I think.

Drilling the first slide didn't go so well.. the hole is completely cocked. So much for eyeballing it.

Does anyone know if I'm completely screwed with that mistake? I notice the replacements go for $85, and they're a replacement for the OEM, not the originals. Am I into this for $85 or $340 to keep them the same? Can this run as is with a slightly crooked hole?

As long as the hole is the correct size on one side or the other you'll be fine.
Its not as bad as you think. Get that carb done and move on to the next one.. It gets easier.
Pics would be awesome too!

 

[Guest]

FOLLOW the instructions EXACTLY in your Dynojet kit. EXACTLY. Do that, and clean your carbs as suggested. DO NOT change your pilot jet size. The DynoJet kits say specificly in them that they are designed to work with your STOCK PILOT SET UP. If you change that, you'll end up rich and sloggy down low, and the bike will run like $hit after a couple of weeks when your plugs are caked with soot..

Correct. No need to chamge the pilot with this kit.