GSX 400E -83 chopper

[MotoX]

On behalf of the English members on here I apologise for the Haynes manual. They are useful for lighting fires though.....

Also don't appologise for the Haynes books, maybe they have faults but it's often better than nothing right?

 

[hampshirehog]

I would start it up and see how it goes using what you've got already. Chances are you'll just end up changing the mains, maybe the pilots (not the pilot air jets, though you might) and maybe shimming the needles.

You've only got 2 of each so it won't cost much to chop and change.

 

[hampshirehog]

Also don't appologise for the Haynes books, maybe they have faults but it's often better than nothing right?

As long as you know what not to follow etc. Haynes are famous for missing out crucial bits and spend pages telling you how, for example, to remove the engine and then only one paragraph on how to rebuild the gearbox. Plus they do get their years mixed up.

Have you looked on Cliff's page to see if he has got the original Suzuki manual?

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

 

[MotoX]

I would start it up and see how it goes using what you've got already. Chances are you'll just end up changing the mains, maybe the pilots (not the pilot air jets, though you might) and maybe shimming the needles.

You've only got 2 of each so it won't cost much to chop and change.

I have started it up right now, though with open pipes and not with the washer in the exhaust, it is running lean enough to missfire with the pilot screws 2 turns out. Also it dies without chocke until it is plenty warmed up. Other than that I couldn't tell you. Also it stalls a bit when it is warmed up.

Oh well, I gues I'll just be patient and complete the bike first then and then plug chop my way to perfection Interesting thing you said about the needle though, do I shim it up? Don't I buy a new smaller one?

 

[MotoX]

Have you looked on Cliff's page to see if he has got the original Suzuki manual?

I downloaded the one I could find, which was a Haynes one I havn't looked through the linked pages though, might spend some time another day scrolling through those.

 

[Guest]

I think, spare yourself some trouble and get Dynojet kit for 1100 (8v), or for 850. It comes with air jet restrictors, adjustable needles and 3 different main fuel jet sets. Airjet restrictors I don't think you can get anywhere else from but Dynojet. The OEM needles in your carbs are likely adjustable (unlike for the USA market) BUT Dynojet needles have a different taper to them so are a better option.
Dynojet may be willing to sell you 1/2 kit, i.e. for two cylinders.

Then you've got all the parts you need for fine tuning.


The diaphragms are not sold separately but only with the piston and cost you through the nose OEM. I seem to remember seeing them available aftermarket... but where...? Anyone?

 

[Guest]

BassCliff has a Clymer manual on there as well, get that one and don't use torque figures from the Haynes, I stripped one thread for the gear changing arm in the crankcase because they had twice the torque rating figure listed

 

[salty_monk]

Not available aftermarket... At least not unless you have a full machine shop to modify the slides to fit the new ones! Someone here did... GregT perhaps??

 

[Guest]

discovered that one membrane has a hole in it.

you can buy a rattlecan of sprayable rubber that you can use to fix the membrane if the damage is just a worn out membrane that's got very thin - but if there is an actual hole then that won't work

 

[MotoX]

you can buy a rattlecan of sprayable rubber that you can use to fix the membrane if the damage is just a worn out membrane that's got very thin - but if there is an actual hole then that won't work

No actually you can see that it is worn out and that there is still an ok mesh in there. So that should be fixable with that spray?

 

[hampshirehog]

Or you could drop Andy an email - he'll get you sorted:

http://www.nrp-carbs.co.uk/suzuki_carburettor_diaphragms.htm

 

[MotoX]

Just to help myself remember a few things about the carburators I type some stuff found out by searching this site http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com

Main Jet - Mikuni Main Jet N100.604 9mm high, 8mm wide over screw head.
Pilot Jet - Mikuni Pilot Jet N151.067 14mm high, 4mm wide over screw head.
Pilot Air Jet - Mikuni Air Jet B42/55 6,5mm high, 6mm wide over screw head.

I couldn't quite figure out the Jet Needle and Needle Jet though.

 

[mike-s]

I had a slight hole in the membrane on my carb. A smear of rubber cement used for fixing inner tubes & punctures on the fingertip lightly across the hole on both sides, left to cure with the rubber as straight as possible, then a second slightly thicker coat, left to dry again and it's as good as new.

Though it doesn't take away from the fact that the slight fold rubbing on the inner bits of the carb was the initial cause of the rubber wearing way.

 

[MotoX]

I had a slight hole in the membrane on my carb. A smear of rubber cement used for fixing inner tubes & punctures on the fingertip lightly across the hole on both sides, left to cure with the rubber as straight as possible, then a second slightly thicker coat, left to dry again and it's as good as new.

Though it doesn't take away from the fact that the slight fold rubbing on the inner bits of the carb was the initial cause of the rubber wearing way.

I'll definetly try this to see if it will be ok that way! Thank you

 

[mike-s]

The big reason i did it this way was the glue was designed to work with this kind of material, so certainly can do no harm having a try with this method. At least that is the logic i used.

 

[MotoX]

The big reason i did it this way was the glue was designed to work with this kind of material, so certainly can do no harm having a try with this method. At least that is the logic i used.

No absolutely, if I'll change it, I might aswell give this a try first.

 

[MotoX]

So to update this stand still... I have been taking the last days of work and tried to fix some tools for my garage. Got my parents welder home to my garage and then went and bought spare parts for it. After buying those I also had to buy a few thingys to get electricity from my central in the house out to the garage and feed the welder. Bought some additional stuff to be able to make that jigg I need to keep the geometry of the front frame and the rear axle. Investigated a bit about the tubing I will use and found out that needs to be ordered from abroad.

So all in all, about 1000$ worth of spare parts and another 400$ of tubing ordered. The tubing for the jigg I can buy allready and starting making that sometime next week, the tubing for the frame will have to wait longer sadly so that might get here in 2-3 weeks at the fastest.

So in the mean time I'll sit my ass at the pokertables and try to recover from this economical loss

 

[Guest]

Investigated a bit about the tubing I will use and found out that needs to be ordered from abroad.

Interesting... care to explain why, please?

 

[MotoX]

Interesting... care to explain why, please?

Certainly! The vehicle inspection here in Sweden demand that you use a certain tubing when re-building a frame on a vehicle. This tubing I think is called seemless steel tubing #235a(or n) or #335a(or n). This is tubing not stored in stock here in Sweden and thus have to be ordered from abroad, in this case Germany. The shiping costs are 140$. Added to that I need 25x3mm tubing for the small reinforcements on the bike and also the tubing going from the top of the bike down to the underlying long tube that stretches from beneath the engine back to the rear axle. I also need a 28x3mm tube going beneath the engine back to the rear axle. They only sell in lengths of 6m. All added together it will be about 400$ for the tubing if I don't count the ones I'll use for the temporary jigg.

Hurray for building your own bike in Sweden!

 

[Guest]

Thanks MotoX.

Yeah... living in a highly regulated country can cost a bit... eh?

I always envy how in some places you can just chop your frame anyway you like... and take off the brakes... and mudguards... and still be legal.

Can't do that here... but at least there are no such specific requirements on the tubing you use - it just needs to be of "suitable size and strength" to be legal.