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guess the electrics!

  • Thread starter Thread starter jed.only
  • Start date Start date
J

jed.only

Guest
im ready to learn something i have not been able to find through searching. i've read in my haynes manual and was left looking for more.

the electrics on the left side, what exactly are they and what do they do?

electricsnumberedle8.jpg


ok, lets begin.

1.)

2.)

3.) is this the main fuse?

4.) other fuses, but for what?

5.) starter solenoid?

6.) rectifier? this piece i go from Duaneage, very nice piece!

chime in if you know them.
 
Last edited:
id like to clean this up and relocate for a cleaner bike. ideas/suggestions/opinions?
 
1= turn signal flasher
2= voltage regulator
3= master fuse
4= fuse box (fuses for other than main, like ignition and headlight)
5= battery LOL next to 5 is starter solinoid
6= rectifier (this turns AC output of generator into DC for the regulator to regulate.

your chain is nasty crusty!!! your rear drive sprocket is worn out and you need to straighten out your side cover hanger tabs.
 
focus frenzy said:
1= turn signal flasher
2= voltage regulator
3= master fuse
4= fuse box (fuses for other than main, like ignition and headlight)
5= battery LOL next to 5 is starter solinoid
6= rectifier (this turns AC output of generator into DC for the regulator to regulate.

your chain is nasty crusty!!! your rear drive sprocket is worn out and you need to straighten out your side cover hanger tabs.
Click to expand...



awesome! so the regulator and rectifier are two seperate pieces. that makes sense. Rob from Z1 has a nice set of sprockets and a chain en route as we speak. the side cover is going bye-bye, and likely ill straighten the tabs incase id like to reapply the cover.
 
early pre 80 GS had separate regulator and rectifiers, mid production GS integrated them together into one doohickey.
 
jed.only said:
i think the one Duaneage sent is all in one.
Click to expand...
Yeah, he sends the all-in-one version. No problem converting, though. Just take the three wires from the stator that go to the rectifier and connect them to the three yellow wires on the input of your new device. The other two wires (maybe more) will be your regulated output that will go to the positive terminal of the battery and the ground wire that will go to the negative terminal of the battery. There might be a sixth wire that is a sense wire. He has terminals on that to make it easy to insert into the tail light wire under the seat.

.
 
jed.only said:
im ready to learn something i have not been able to find through searching. i've read in my haynes manual and was left looking for more.

the electrics on the left side, what exactly are they and what do they do?

electricsnumberedle8.jpg


ok, lets begin.

1.)

2.)

3.) is this the main fuse?

4.) other fuses, but for what?

5.) starter solenoid?

6.) rectifier? this piece i go from Duaneage, very nice piece!

chime in if you know them.
Click to expand...


I was just reading the replies to your post and thought I'd make a correction and a note or 2.

1) Flasher
2) Voltage regulator (shunts the high voltage peaks of the AC waveform from the stator, keeping system voltage to manageable levels when the engine is revved up).
3) AUXILIARY fuse (main fuse is the top or #1 position in the group of 4)
On your Haynes schematic, this is labelled "output" - note there is also a ground terminal at this block.
4) Fuse panel - Top #1 = main fuse 15 amp
#2 = Instr & tail lights 10 amp
#3 = brake light/signals/horn 10 amp
#4 = ignition & starter control 10 amp
5) Starter solenoid switch
6) 3 phase rectifier - Fed by the 3 phase AC output of the stator, this
provides the DC power to maintain ignition, lighting and keep the
battery charged.


There is no need to automatically change to an integrated rectifier / regulator unit - your setup actually allows easier diagnostics and better repairability, when understood.
 
Last edited:
SPARKSS said:
I was just reading the replies to your post and thought I'd make a correction and a note or 2.

1) Flasher
2) Voltage regulator (shunts the high voltage peaks of the AC waveform from the stator, keeping system voltage to manageable levels when the engine is revved up).
3) AUXILIARY fuse (main fuse is the top or #1 position in the group of 4)
On your Haynes schematic, this is labelled "output" - note there is also a ground terminal at this block.
4) Fuse panel - Top #1 = main fuse 15 amp
#2 = Instr & tail lights 10 amp
#3 = brake light/signals/horn 10 amp
#4 = ignition & starter control 10 amp
5) Starter solenoid switch
6) 3 phase rectifier - Fed by the 3 phase AC output of the stator, this
provides the DC power to maintain ignition, lighting and keep the
battery charged.


There is no need to automatically change to an integrated rectifier / regulator unit - your setup actually allows easier diagnostics and better repairability, when understood.
Click to expand...


interesting. i wonder why the fuses are split-up like that.
 
jed.only said:
interesting. i wonder why the fuses are split-up like that.
Click to expand...

Failsafe logics - #1 main fuse guards against catastrophic failure that may include 1 or more circuits. #2 should include headlight in my description....this is not shown intuitively in Haynes diagrams. Failure allows you to still start and drive and get home safely during the day. #3 failure allows you to start, drive and get home relatively safe, using your hand signals. #4 groups the 2 basic things that'll keep you from starting and driving (obviously electrically cranking the engine isn't a necessity but push starting a GS1000 on the level by yourself is not great fun!).

That "output" or auxiliary fuse block (which normally has a plastic cover over it) is a good place to add a redundant headlight (driving) light circuit......just remember that it's not ignition switch protected from you leaving those lights on.
Get the idea?
 
Another excellent upgrade at this point would be to trash that glass fuse block and replace with a modern atc fuseblock. It's a pretty easy modification and if you get one with a couple extra fuses you're already set up for any future electrics you might want to add. Now that mine is approaching being stripped down to the frame I'm rewiring (more cleanly) some things through my fuse block (like my coil relay mod) since I have extra slots.
 
Last edited:
SPARKSS said:
Failsafe logics - #1 main fuse guards against catastrophic failure that may include 1 or more circuits. #2 should include headlight in my description....this is not shown intuitively in Haynes diagrams. Failure allows you to still start and drive and get home safely during the day. #3 failure allows you to start, drive and get home relatively safe, using your hand signals. #4 groups the 2 basic things that'll keep you from starting and driving (obviously electrically cranking the engine isn't a necessity but push starting a GS1000 on the level by yourself is not great fun!).

That "output" or auxiliary fuse block (which normally has a plastic cover over it) is a good place to add a redundant headlight (driving) light circuit......just remember that it's not ignition switch protected from you leaving those lights on.
Get the idea?
Click to expand...


understood. makes sense now. thank you for your contribution.

doctorgonzo said:
Another excellent upgrade at this point would be to trash that glass fuse block and replace with a modern atc fuseblock. It's a pretty easy modification and if you get one with a couple extra fuses you're already set up for any future electrics you might want to add. Now that mine is approaching being stripped down to the frame I'm rewiring (more cleanly) some things through my fuse block (like my coil relay mod) since I have extra slots.
Click to expand...


you wouldnt have any pics of tips on this, would you?
 
Pretty sure there is a thread with pics in the "Tips and Tricks" section.
 
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