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Half Moon Rubber Seals

  • Thread starter Thread starter Raulmanny50
  • Start date Start date
R

Raulmanny50

Guest
In order to make the valves adjustments (that it was not necessary after all): Putting back the cams cover I didn't knew that a bond was recommended for the new gasket. Long story short a lot of oil leak, I re-tightened and the same (it was then when I read about the bond). Besides the Clymer manual advised about the half moon seals. At least one was not looking good. I ordered the four of them from Cycle Re Cycle Parts CESEAL-0907. Now to wait to put them. I got the bond too this time. I'll try to use the same gasket that I was able to salvage. Let's see what happens next. The winter weather in South Florida is FANTASTIC!
Any advise for this task is welcome.
 
Raulmanny50 said..."The winter weather in South Florida is FANTASTIC!"

Yeah, yeah, but cold and snow can be fun too!
Anyways, all valve clearances within tolerance? lucky you. I just did mine after 4k and found #1 EX and #1 and #2 IN too small. While you wait in the weather for your half moons and since you got cover off, might as well check cam to crank timing in case some PO got creative.
 
Before you go glopping some sealer all over, you should know that the ONLY parts that 'need' any sealer would be the curved portion of the half-moons.

Since you are installing NEW half-moons, even that won't be necessary, but feel free to do it if you want.

The best way to install them (if you insist on using the sealer) is to use a LIGHT coat of sealer on the curved part, set the half-moons in place, then install the cam cover with no gasket, then let it set overnight. This will clamp the half-moons into place without affecting the gasket seal. Now you can remove the cover, install your new gasket with NO sealer, then torque the cover down. That's right, NO sealer on the gasket. In fact, many of us will use WD-40, engine oil or a light film of grease to make the gasket just tacky enough to hold it in place, but also VERY easy to remove next time.

I also see that neither one of you has taken advantage of the invitation in my sig.
down2.gif

It's just a handy little tool that helps you with your adjustments.

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Half Moon Seals

Half Moon Seals

Steve, you make sense regarding the installation and overnight process of the seals. In my case one of the seals (front, right) does not looks good. And I think is the primary (but not the only) source of the oil leaks. When I checked the tolerance between the cams and the shims there was not a perceptible gap (measuring w/ the feeler gap).
Thanks Very Much for you help and sound advise.
 
"check cam to crank timing in case some PO got creative"
Can you elaborate? Thanks!
 
You already have the valve cover off, you should also have the right side engine cover off (to turn the crank with the 19mm nut), so it's very easy to check cam timing.

Line up the "T" mark for cylinders 1 and 4, you should see a "1" mark at the front of the exhaust cam sprocket. If not, turn the crank one full revolution and try again. If the "1" mark is pointing at the edge of the head when the "T" mark is aligned, your exhaust cam is properly timed. Now note the "2" mark at the top of the exhaust cam sprocket. Count the pins from there to the "3" mark at the top of the intake sprocket, compare that with the specification in your service manual to see if the intake cam is properly timed.

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Raulmanny50 said:
When I checked the tolerance between the cams and the shims there was not a perceptible gap (measuring w/ the feeler gap).
.
Click to expand...

You said the adjustment was not needed, but there is no gap??

OK. Burnt valves are fun to replace.
 
tkent02 said:
You said the adjustment was not needed, but there is no gap??
Click to expand...
Good catch, Tom, I glanced right over that. :oops:

Raulmanny, you need to have clearance, there is no other way.

If your feelers don't fit, you need to make sure you have the right feelers, they are easily available at most any auto supply shop.
Even if you use INCH feelers (that's what I use), the smallest one is very close to the minimum clearance for your valves and the next few will go right up to close to the maximum clearance.

Keep in mind, though that the maximum clearance specified is only the thickness of a piece of paper, so it may seem "imperceptible", but it HAS to be there.

.
 
I will once again going over the valves adjustment and I'm going to write down the existing gap.
 
Personally, I use permatex anti seize on the bottom side of the gasket. They seal just fine dry, but I don't like to scrape.
 
There is not major satisfaction than to do a fix/repair and get the right results, I replaced the half-moon seals and then the following day I did the re-installation of the cam cover gasket, in both cases I used the sealant. I took it for a ride yesterday and no leaks. i checked the clearances on the cams-shims and I'm within tolerances.
THANKS!
 
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