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Zooks
Guest
I realise that. I was talking about the twistys on a mountain road in the 'back of nowhere'. :dancing:
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I realise that. I was talking about the twistys on a mountain road in the 'back of nowhere'. :dancing:
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briyenkieth
Guest
Sadly some of our montain roads are just as redicules. My last trip down Ortega hwy (sorta local road) I had a guy in one of those scion toasters trying to kill me. I feel that our banter is getting a bit to negative so I appoligize for it. Since you don't get the hardtail thing, beg borrow or steal a ride on one and I bet you come away with a different opinion.
So atb the shaft is common,huh? Don't know if that makes me feel any better. Dubt they will warranty it. Almost a year since the warranty expired.
Blm...any new news?
So atb the shaft is common,huh? Don't know if that makes me feel any better. Dubt they will warranty it. Almost a year since the warranty expired.
Blm...any new news?
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blmiller8
Guest
Yeah man I just finished installing the brake light switches to get it street worthy. I changed the oil filter on the bike and while reinstalling it I think I pinched the packing. Im going to ride it today though because its not that bad. I will post more pics as I go. Seems like everytime I think I am done something else happens. Its like a never ending project. But I am having some funn with it.
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atchbo
Guest
Thanks for the posts, and the ideas. I've been looking at doing something similar, and had welded up some rigid struts for the rear end to make my hardtail. Now that I've read about the potential for crushing bearings and cracking the frame this way, I'm more curious about a properly welded hardtail.
Do you have any measurements you can share?
Atchbo
Do you have any measurements you can share?
Atchbo
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atchbo
Guest
My current state of affairs.
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blmiller8
Guest
Honestly we just kind of cut the welded then cut and welded. We used a string off the neck and made sure that it was the same distance on both sides. I do know that the rearend coming from under the tank is 26" I thought it was the perfect length. And you will really need a hydraulic tube bender to do it right.
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blmiller8
Guest
I cant really see what you are dooing in that picutre.
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blmiller8
Guest
Heres a couple of the progress pics for some ideas
The triangle plates that hold the rear tire in were made at a local machien shop. They are like 50$ each though.
The triangle plates that hold the rear tire in were made at a local machien shop. They are like 50$ each though.
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atchbo
Guest
Yeah, you can't see much in my pictures because the garage is too small to get a profile shot. I haven't gone very far with the bike yet... I'm trying to freshen up the motor but having to wait for some of the seals etc to come in the mail. I was going to put rigid struts on the back and call it done, but all the triangles look dumb (not to mention the potential frame cracking issues).
I started by making a seat pan and was trying to figure out how best to mount it. Then because the struts are so short (low), the back wheel ended up high, near the top of its travel, and the cross-member of the frame is in the way of the fender. So one thing is leading to the other... I'm not sure I trust my welding enough to do serious work on the frame (I've got a 90 amp flux-core mig and still make some shoddy looking welds). Anyway, I'll keep going with the seat and try to get the motor back together before doing any more work on the frame. This might be a good time to get some help with the frame work, as we're in a bit of a slowdown here, and there are lots of good welders around, maybe looking for side jobs.
Atchbo
I started by making a seat pan and was trying to figure out how best to mount it. Then because the struts are so short (low), the back wheel ended up high, near the top of its travel, and the cross-member of the frame is in the way of the fender. So one thing is leading to the other... I'm not sure I trust my welding enough to do serious work on the frame (I've got a 90 amp flux-core mig and still make some shoddy looking welds). Anyway, I'll keep going with the seat and try to get the motor back together before doing any more work on the frame. This might be a good time to get some help with the frame work, as we're in a bit of a slowdown here, and there are lots of good welders around, maybe looking for side jobs.
Atchbo
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blmiller8
Guest
I dont know much about welding man but I was told not to use flux core on bike frames. All of the welds on my bike were done with a tig welder and he had been welding motorcycle frames for years. If your going to put your life at the hands of your welds might aswell have them done by someone who knows what they are dooing.
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Hammered
Guest
Flux, Stick, Mig, Tig or Torch. Wont matter. As long as youre using the proper filler, youre fine. Hell back in the early days of manufacturing, most comapnies were still braze welding these thing together. 90amp is a bit small but as long as youre getting good penatration, youre good to go. Im running a Clarke 130 for my project and after 25+ years of welding, I still like this little machine.
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tone
Guest
Oooh this takes me back to my youth, its pretty much the sort of stuff i started out doing 30 years ago 
The first frame you showed was structualy unsound the last is better imo but i would still like to see specs on tubing used & wall thickness tbh i have some small concerns about unsupported butt joints & the length of the hardtail without triangulation
Still having said all that it does look cool, is a good shape & i'm glad you ended up using a simple jig for alignment
cheers tone
The first frame you showed was structualy unsound the last is better imo but i would still like to see specs on tubing used & wall thickness tbh i have some small concerns about unsupported butt joints & the length of the hardtail without triangulation
Still having said all that it does look cool, is a good shape & i'm glad you ended up using a simple jig for alignment
cheers tone
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blmiller8
Guest
Oooh this takes me back to my youth, its pretty much the sort of stuff i started out doing 30 years ago
The first frame you showed was structualy unsound the last is better imo but i would still like to see specs on tubing used & wall thickness tbh i have some small concerns about unsupported butt joints & the length of the hardtail without triangulation
Still having said all that it does look cool, is a good shape & i'm glad you ended up using a simple jig for alignment
cheers tone
LOL Thanks for the bit of encouragement. I want to buy another gs soon and do it all again. As far as the tubing we used what they had at the chopper shop. I dont really know any of the specs on it. I would like to learn more though if you could send me a link or a book for reference.
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blmiller8
Guest
OK I didnt mean to make an uneducated assumption I was just going of off reccamendations of others. Thanks for the info..
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blmiller8
Guest
Got board yesterday took some pics before I left. I am in nc and kinda miss working on the bike lol. Dont tell my wife.
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tone
Guest
Imo the best articles ever written on frame design are by tony foale & quick google session will bring up more info than you can deal with in a year lol, a lot of it is aimed at race frames but the same principles apply to any bike frame reguardless of type :dancing:
For tube i would reccomend cds2 or the later equivelent cfs3 with a minimum wall thickness of 3mm unless you are an expreianced bronze welder then i'd go for chrome moly tube in the same size
Heres a link to another site i use that should provide hours of fun
http://www.britchopper.co.uk/forum/index.php you may have to register but these guys really know their stuff & have been doing this sort of thing even longer than me in some cases so the effort is worth it
hope it helps & if you need to bounce some idea's around i'm always around .... tone
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krsmetalhed1988
Guest
I have recently attended an automotive school with classes in chassis fabrication. Most if not all shops here is the US us 1020 DOM tubing(Drawn Over Mandrell), meaning there is no welded seam on the inside of the tubing. .120 is the wall thickness. Cromoly is mostly used for racing and such. Expensive compared to 1020(mild steel). Dragbike chassis maybe, chopper chassis unnecessary.
Imo the best articles ever written on frame design are by tony foale & quick google session will bring up more info than you can deal with in a year lol, a lot of it is aimed at race frames but the same principles apply to any bike frame reguardless of type :dancing:
For tube i would reccomend cds2 or the later equivelent cfs3 with a minimum wall thickness of 3mm unless you are an expreianced bronze welder then i'd go for chrome moly tube in the same size
Heres a link to another site i use that should provide hours of fun
http://www.britchopper.co.uk/forum/index.php you may have to register but these guys really know their stuff & have been doing this sort of thing even longer than me in some cases so the effort is worth it
hope it helps & if you need to bounce some idea's around i'm always around .... tone
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tone
Guest
Cds = cold drawn SEAMLESS, cfs3 basically the same stuff with a name change to comply with euro standards, i would never reccomend any type of erw (electo ridge welded) or seamed tube for a frame
tone
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briyenkieth
Guest
aren't our frames made from welded seam at the factory? Not that I'm disagreeing just curious. Minenlooked like seamed tube when I chopped it.
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krsmetalhed1988
Guest
Yes the factory frames have a seam and are not .120 wall thickness. The smaller wall thickness is why they used more tubing and bracing for strength IMO.