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Have the issued solved, still a question.

Larry D

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
This is really a more cause and effect question.

When I did my valve adjustment on the 16v 81GS750L, both #4 exhaust tappet set bolts were stripped, they've been replaced with no problems. No issues with any of the other tappets.

I've recently discovered that my #4 carb idle air screw tip has been broken off deeply at some point. I don't think I did it, but I wouldn't deny it either. I really think it's been in there for awhile. I've aquired a new #4 carb body and that issue is resolved.

Would the idle air screw tip being broken off, overtime, put undue strain on the #4 exhaust tappets, causing them to strip?

Just curious. Thanks.
 
Sounds like the PO of your bike was a hack mechanic.
 
Sounds like the PO of your bike was a hack mechanic.

I think this bike had a few issues that went unfixed and accumulated over the years and ended up in my garage as a non-running, cosmetically above average machine. Seems to have always spent it's life inside.

It and alot of other of these bikes would have just eroded away except for GSR and it's helpful members. Trust me, I could've never even started to explain any of these issues 6 months ago. It's been a great education process.

And yes, it seems there has been a wrench or two turned on it before in vain attempts to her running again.

I, with everyone's help, will be victorious !!:p
 
So what all's left Larry? It's too cold for me to ride anymore, so weekends are a bit more free now.....
 
So what all's left Larry? It's too cold for me to ride anymore, so weekends are a bit more free now.....[/quote/]

Well....

Reinstall the carbs, Drop the exhaust and install the missing motor mount bolt under the stator. Probably don't have to drop the exhaust, but, it's gonna make it easier. Also figured while I had the exhaust off, I'd drop the oil pan and check out the filter screen and do a good inspection of the innards....I also have new steering stem bearings waiting to go in.

That hopefully will finally make the bike mechanically sound. Just have some minor cosmetic things after that.
 
Prepare to take the head off too, when you break a few exhaust bolts, Doing that much ? might go further and pull the oil pump and replace the O rings
 
Prepare to take the head off too, when you break a few exhaust bolts, Doing that much ? might go further and pull the oil pump and replace the O rings

Good point here.:) Don't force the exhaust bolts. Hit them with PB Blaster and let it work for a few days if the exhaust has never been off before. If the bolts are hard to turn, try a propane torch on the bolt and give it more time with the PB. If you can get them to turn a little, work the bolt back and forth and use more PB. I did this on some header bolts recently and got out the ones that I took my time on. Broke some others where I forced it.:mad:

Good luck.
 
Larry's exhaust, er, I mean, the exhaust on Larry's bike has been off once or twice already, so that's all good... jeez, don't try to scare the guy!
 
Larry's exhaust, er, I mean, the exhaust on Larry's bike has been off once or twice already, so that's all good... jeez, don't try to scare the guy!

I guess I won't tell him of my suspicions about his rod bearings. * :(































* Just kidding. I think once he gets his carbs dialed in, he'll be good to go. The engine sounds pretty sweet.
 
Don't think I'll have many more issues....I hope.

As stated the exhaust has been off a couple times...another story. Actually when I originally took it off it came off like butter, with the help of Mr. PB Blaster. I'm going to do good innards inspection while the oil pan is off.

So, any thoughts on the idle air screw/#4 exhaust relationship ? Not really an issue at this point, just curious what would make only the #4 exhaust tappets strip. I've read in one of the multitude of threads here that perhaps there is an effect on #4 exhaust when a 4-1 exhaust is installed and not jetted properly, which mine had when I bought it....of course I can't find the thread now.
 
The only way to strip a tappet adjuster is through hamfisted wrenching. No way it would strip during use. It could unscrew by itself and fall out if it was not tightened fully, but there is no chance of any stripped threads.
 
Those are made out of some seriously hard metal. I don't think I could strip one if I tried.
 
Those are made out of some seriously hard metal. I don't think I could strip one if I tried.

I couldn't get either adjuster nut to tighten after the threaded tappet had been set. Honestly not sure if it was the adjuster nut or the threaded tappet stud was stripped. I'm lucky enough to live about 15 minutes from CycleRecyle....Rob had two in stock, put 'em in, problem solved.:)
 
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